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Thread: Axles

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
    City/State
    ,
    Posts
    2

    Axles

    I have purchased a 82 Scrambler about 3 months ago, I drove it from New York to Ky. Had no problems. 3 weeks later noticed fluid leak @ right rear tire. Had Seal replaced, OK for 1 week then noticed leak again, even worse than before. Had repaired, again but this time axle came out slipping through pressed on bearing and stuck out about a foot from side. This time I had a new axle and ever thing on right replaced new. Then 2weeks later axle backed out again this time about 1/4 inch just enough so I had no drive train action. Had fixed again but same deel back out just enough to have no action. This time I wanted to put a hole new rear axle assembly on. I can not and the mechanics I had working on it can not figure out what the axle is on it now, original has been replaced. ( I had the bearing welded in place for now so it can't back out until I get replacement axle) The tags are not on the front or rear axles. The ad for the jeep said it has new rear Moser one piece axle. Are there different Moser Rr axles? The Mechanics said there are 4 different axles for my Cj8. I would appreciate any info any body has on how to figure out what I have now on there so I can get correct one to match front. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2002
    City/State
    Dexter, MI
    Scrambler Year
    84 Alaskan Postal
    Year Purchased
    2002
    Posts
    19,155
    If you had one piece axles, you've got an AMC 20 rear axle.

    More importantly, if your mechanics can't figure that out, you NEED TO FIND A NEW SHOP. Dude, seriously, everyone that knows anything about Jeeps at all knows that AMC20s were the standard axles and 1-pc upgrades are the way to go.

    I got an axle that had identical problems... turned out that the shop that installed the one-pieces didn't remove the thrust block in the differential and the axle shafts couldn't seat properly. They kept getting pushed out of the axle, leaked and popped completely out, just like yours.

    I'd put a lot of money on this being your problem. You have to take the cross-shaft out of the differential and remove the loose steel block that the pin holds in place. You can probably do this with the diff in the vehicle, just pull the diff cover, find and punch out the roll pin that passes through the carrier and the cross pin, push the cross pin out, pull out the thrust block and reinstall the corss pin.

    There's a thread on here I believe that has details and pictures if you search for "thrust block".

    The good news is that I got that axle to work just fine once the thrust block was removed.

    '84 Alaskan Postal CJ-8: Right-hand drive, World Cab, 35s, outboarded RE 4.5" lift, XD9000i, PSC armor, Waggy 44/HD20, 4.0/AW4
    '05 Rubicon LJ: ORFAB bumpers, Ramsey 9000e, 3" Black Diamond lift, 315/75 Duratracs, GR8TOPS Exogate and prototype Safari hard top, 6-speed, CB, GR8TOPS Safari Cab
    '77 Cherokee S 4-door "Mater": Aero Tank aux gas tank, part time kit in tcase, Warn lockouts, 360 with goodies, saggy springs, loads of patina
    '08 JK Unlimited: Stock, auto, heated seat
    '99 Ford E350 "the bus": Redneck camper/tow rig conversion

    My AK Postal page | All of the pics from the trip | Rockcrawler.com story of bringing the postal home from AK to NC


  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    City/State
    ,
    Posts
    2

    axles

    Thanks this is great I will give that a shot. I did have the bearing welded in place, what do you think? will it cause any damage ? It is driving great now.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2002
    City/State
    Dexter, MI
    Scrambler Year
    84 Alaskan Postal
    Year Purchased
    2002
    Posts
    19,155
    I think you may have weakened that axle at the spot of the weld, embrittling the metal in the heat effected area... might cause a problem if you get in a spot where you're hammering it with high traction, but for driving around it will probably be fine.

    My worry now is that since the thrust block was putting enough pressure on the shaft to push it out, you're now tranferring all of that to the backing plate or back into the diff... best to at least take a peek in the pumpkin to see if the block is still in there...

    Good luck, I hope that fixes it for you.

    '84 Alaskan Postal CJ-8: Right-hand drive, World Cab, 35s, outboarded RE 4.5" lift, XD9000i, PSC armor, Waggy 44/HD20, 4.0/AW4
    '05 Rubicon LJ: ORFAB bumpers, Ramsey 9000e, 3" Black Diamond lift, 315/75 Duratracs, GR8TOPS Exogate and prototype Safari hard top, 6-speed, CB, GR8TOPS Safari Cab
    '77 Cherokee S 4-door "Mater": Aero Tank aux gas tank, part time kit in tcase, Warn lockouts, 360 with goodies, saggy springs, loads of patina
    '08 JK Unlimited: Stock, auto, heated seat
    '99 Ford E350 "the bus": Redneck camper/tow rig conversion

    My AK Postal page | All of the pics from the trip | Rockcrawler.com story of bringing the postal home from AK to NC


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    City/State
    Highland, IL
    Scrambler Year
    1982 / ?
    Year Purchased
    '03-12
    Posts
    826
    Moser also has an old version and new version. Contact them about getting instructions/bearing info. or someone on here might have it on file.
    Life is short. Play hard.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    City/State
    Louisville, co
    Scrambler Year
    1981
    Year Purchased
    7/1990
    Posts
    1,690
    Just a thought here. When I had superior axles in my AMC 20 the bearing had the small end towards the Diff. On my Summers Brothers axles the small end of the bearing is faced towards the wheel. Could you have gotten he bearing in backwards. Most shops wouldn't know which direction the bearing goes without prior knowledge of that brand of axle or having the install instructions on hand.

    Just something you should look at since having it in wrong could lead to the bearing working loose.

    Good Luck!
    TK
    In the Land of the Political Tree Huggers. Old CJ-8 looking for a trail to travel while making a new adventure to remember.

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