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  1. #466
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    City/State
    Biloxi, MS
    Scrambler Year
    1983 (I think SR?)
    Year Purchased
    2009
    Posts
    3,216
    Quote Originally Posted by bigwalton View Post
    Can you just stick the other shifter on there quick with a couple bolts in it to compare the feel or do you have to seal it/fill it up to tell?

    I'm no manual tranny guy, but I was waiting to read what happened when you swapped the other shifter on...
    Yes, I can bolt the other shift housing on easy enough. It will take longer to clean all the gunk off of it then it will to bolt it on I have not been filling the transmission all the way up with gear oil (leaving about 1 liter inside of it) or sealing it up during my "tests". It doesn't leak much oil out the cover if all the bolts are bolted down, i figure half the gear oil will suffice for my quick tests, especially considering it is not under a "load", i.e no drive shafts, axles, tires, road resistance, etc. I have been making sure to dump oil on the synchronizer assemblies and shift tower parts before "testing"

    I think my problem has to do with the synchronizer assemblies. They do operate like they should, they just take a little more hand pressure to slide back and forth compared to the other transmission. On the "spare" Scramblers transmission, when i first drop on the shifter housing, I can slide the whole housing forward, backward, and side to side, with the shift forks engaged on the collars very easily. On my rebuilt transmission I can't do that That's why I think they need to "wear" in some, maybe???

    The other thing I thought about, since i don't have the back drive shaft hooked up, the output shaft is kind of spinning with the input shaft. Maybe i need to hook up the rear drive shaft, put oil in the rear axle, put tires on it, to give enough resistance to get the output shaft to not spin with the input shaft? The input/output shafts DO disengage when I clutch it, but I have to grab the rear output with my hand to keep it from turning. The rear output is not getting power when the clutch is pressed in or if the transmission is in neutral, but it still spins a little. Maybe that is throwing the synchronizers off????

  2. #467
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    City/State
    Fredericksburg, Va
    Scrambler Year
    1982
    Year Purchased
    2010
    Posts
    458
    I had trouble with my Dana 300 not shifting at all it would not stay in gear tell i hooked up me drive shaft, After that is was like night and day how easy it shifted Might be it dont got a load on it

  3. #468
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    City/State
    Baton Rouge, La
    Scrambler Year
    1984 SL
    Posts
    1,155
    Try checking the replacement shift fork. Sometimes one part sticks out too much and binds on another shift rod piece, effectively locking it up. my

  4. #469
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    City/State
    Dillsboro, IN
    Scrambler Year
    81-4,82-2,83-4,84-2
    Year Purchased
    1990
    Posts
    2,930

    No Worries

    No problem, I'll give you a complete refund of full purchase price ( and work something out for the cost of parts you bought for it ). Just let me know when to pick it up.

    Sorry for the grief. I did have a problem with a replacement shift fork on a T-15. Measured both sides and one side was 1/16 thicker. i sanded it down to manch the other side and had no further problems.

    Great work my friend.

    If "WE ARE" the result of our past paths,
    we need to pay attention to who "OUR PRESENT WALK" is with,
    to prepare us "FOR OUR FUTURE DESTINATION"

    Toby

  5. #470
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    City/State
    Longview, TX
    Scrambler Year
    82 Black SL
    Posts
    276
    Since the lower housing is working correctly, and there were no previous problems before the rebuild logic would tell us that there is something wrong with the new parts you put in. New synchros take a few miles to wear in good, but that should not be the main cause of your problem. The transmission on my 44 mb is still a little tight from rebuild but it gets better with each drive. However, since the problems come and go, nobody can tell you for sure. I would investigate that new sift fork next, like Mr. Beep said.


    Great job, don't feel too bad about the bugs, they are present with every major rebuild. Its a great feeling to finally get them worked out.
    Brent/Will H.

    Craiglist junkie

    82 Black SL
    81... pieces
    lots-o-parts

  6. #471
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    City/State
    Biloxi, MS
    Scrambler Year
    1983 (I think SR?)
    Year Purchased
    2009
    Posts
    3,216

    Talking

    Got it working correctly, thanks to Jeep Addict LOL

  7. #472
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    City/State
    Biloxi, MS
    Scrambler Year
    1983 (I think SR?)
    Year Purchased
    2009
    Posts
    3,216
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeep Addict View Post
    Try checking the replacement shift fork. Sometimes one part sticks out too much and binds on another shift rod piece, effectively locking it up. my
    You hit the nail on the head with that bit of advice

  8. #473
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    City/State
    Biloxi, MS
    Scrambler Year
    1983 (I think SR?)
    Year Purchased
    2009
    Posts
    3,216
    Quote Originally Posted by MrBeep View Post
    No problem, I'll give you a complete refund of full purchase price ( and work something out for the cost of parts you bought for it ). Just let me know when to pick it up.

    Sorry for the grief. I did have a problem with a replacement shift fork on a T-15. Measured both sides and one side was 1/16 thicker. i sanded it down to manch the other side and had no further problems.

    Great work my friend.

    Glad to see that you have been checking up on the status/progress on your old Scrambler I think you have to get in line behind Bad Karma for scrap rights, though

    Appreciate the compliments, too

    Ended up being the replacement shift fork, but it is off in several dimensions

  9. #474
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    City/State
    Biloxi, MS
    Scrambler Year
    1983 (I think SR?)
    Year Purchased
    2009
    Posts
    3,216
    Quote Originally Posted by Will_Texas View Post
    Since the lower housing is working correctly, and there were no previous problems before the rebuild logic would tell us that there is something wrong with the new parts you put in. New synchros take a few miles to wear in good, but that should not be the main cause of your problem. The transmission on my 44 mb is still a little tight from rebuild but it gets better with each drive. However, since the problems come and go, nobody can tell you for sure. I would investigate that new sift fork next, like Mr. Beep said.


    Great job, don't feel too bad about the bugs, they are present with every major rebuild. Its a great feeling to finally get them worked out.
    Yep, should have went back to that lesson that I know all too well: "Go back and check out the last part you changed or messed with to find the source of the problem"

    Shifts perfect now, feels great to have figured out this "bug"

  10. #475
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    City/State
    Biloxi, MS
    Scrambler Year
    1983 (I think SR?)
    Year Purchased
    2009
    Posts
    3,216
    Went back last night and figured out my shifting issue. I went back first to double check the assembly on all the other components, mainly the synchronizers assemblies. Everything is assembled correctly and moves freely with just slight hand pressure. Next, I took apart the shifter housing and replaced the replacement fork with the original fork. Wouldn't you know the top cover slid right on, secured it with the two alignment bolts finger tight, and it shifts perfect

    Now, time for my soapbox speech: BEWARE OF SO CALLED "REPALCEMENT" PARTS This particular replacement part is off in several important dimensions/aspects that it can not work as intended. All of my other drive line parts are either OE, Dana Spicer, Timken, or aftermarket (Warn, Centerforce and OX) and everything fits together and works perfectly like it should. This piece of "made in china" garbage should only be used for a paperweight. For now on, when i need to replace a part like this, I will search out a NOS piece or a used part that still is serviceable. I know it is ultimately my fault, i should have switched this part out sooner in my all of my testing, but i wasted 2 days fighting with this cr@p part. I am used to fighting with stuff, but for people new to working on vehicles, this can be very frustrating. If I wasn't so hard headed I probably would have thrown in the towel earlier and took the transmission to a shop that specializes in them to figure it out. Imagine the time that would have cost me let alone the dollar amount. All because a "replacement" part is in fact NOT a replacement part. Rant over.

    Picture of the main problem area of the "replacement". Fork on the right is the factory fork. Fork on left is the "replacement". Note how much further it sticks out toward the pointer thing.



    Another overall picture of the two side by side.



    I marked the "replacement" fork and cut it down to match the factory fork.




    Even after making the "replacement" match the factory fork in this dimension, it still would not work. It is too fat, too tall, and the forks are slightly off. Even if I would have machined it down in those areas, and modified the forks, it still would have been suspect. The area where the shifter goes would have been to shallow. I would have to remove the steel insert, also, to possibly get it to work. In the end, I didn't feel like wasting another 4 hours of my life on that cr@p "replacement" part.

    The only reason I changed out the fork was to tighten up some "sloppiness" the shifter had. Turns out just the replacement shifter retainer spring and collar fixed this issue. Pic of the problem area that caused the sloppiness.





    The slight wear on the factory part is not that bad after all, and it still functions perfectly. I am going to find a NOS or used fork and keep with me in case I have any problems later on. But for now, it works perfectly, shifts fine, and I have no more "sloppiness" . I can move forward, finally.
    Last edited by spankrjs; 03-08-2011 at 09:09 AM.

  11. #476
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    City/State
    Greenbackville, VA
    Scrambler Year
    1984
    Year Purchased
    2010
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by spankrjs View Post
    Now, time for my soapbox speech: BEWARE OF SO CALLED "REPALCEMENT" PARTS This particular replacement part is off in several important dimensions/aspects that it can not work as intended. I can move forward, finally.
    I definitely feel your pain and hate it when that happens! Not just Jeeps but anywhere. When the light comes on and your realize that no matter what it syas on the box, it AIN'T RIGHT and AIN'T GONNA WORK!

    Glad to see you're back on the solid progress path!
    cheers,

    kim

  12. #477
    Join Date
    May 2002
    City/State
    Dexter, MI
    Scrambler Year
    84 Alaskan Postal
    Year Purchased
    2002
    Posts
    19,308



    '84 Alaskan Postal CJ-8: Right-hand drive, World Cab, 35s, outboarded RE 4.5" lift, XD9000i, PSC armor, Waggy 44/HD20, 4.0/AW4
    '05 Rubicon LJ: ORFAB bumpers, Ramsey 9000e, 3" Black Diamond lift, 315/75 Duratracs, GR8TOPS Exogate and prototype Safari hard top, 6-speed, CB, GR8TOPS Safari Cab
    '77 Cherokee S 4-door "Mater": Aero Tank aux gas tank, part time kit in tcase, Warn lockouts, 360 with goodies, saggy springs, loads of patina
    '08 JK Unlimited: Stock, auto, heated seat
    '99 Ford E350 "the bus": Redneck camper/tow rig conversion

    My AK Postal page | All of the pics from the trip | Rockcrawler.com story of bringing the postal home from AK to NC


  13. #478
    Join Date
    May 2002
    City/State
    Redmond, OR
    Scrambler Year
    82 base, 81 SR
    Year Purchased
    2002
    Posts
    7,961
    Glad you figured that out. I don't know how they can get away seling some of these aftermarket parts. That "piece" wouldn't have worked for anyone!

    Randy S.
    "It's not what you buy, it's what you build"
    82 Scrambler "Copper" 5.3 Vortec/4L60E/241OR/D44&HD20/4.56 locked
    Build Thread-http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19032
    81 Scrambler "Red"...in pieces waiting for some love...
    73 VW Bus
    www.oldsoulsretros.com

  14. #479
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    City/State
    Biloxi, MS
    Scrambler Year
    1983 (I think SR?)
    Year Purchased
    2009
    Posts
    3,216
    Quote Originally Posted by kimsanva View Post
    I definitely feel your pain and hate it when that happens! Not just Jeeps but anywhere. When the light comes on and your realize that no matter what it syas on the box, it AIN'T RIGHT and AIN'T GONNA WORK!

    Glad to see you're back on the solid progress path!
    Feels great to clear that hurdle

  15. #480
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    City/State
    Biloxi, MS
    Scrambler Year
    1983 (I think SR?)
    Year Purchased
    2009
    Posts
    3,216
    Quote Originally Posted by bigwalton View Post


    Appreciate it bigwalton

    I need to hurry up and pick out some tires so i can finally drive this thing

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