03-07-2011, 04:41 PM #466
I think my problem has to do with the synchronizer assemblies. They do operate like they should, they just take a little more hand pressure to slide back and forth compared to the other transmission. On the "spare" Scramblers transmission, when i first drop on the shifter housing, I can slide the whole housing forward, backward, and side to side, with the shift forks engaged on the collars very easily. On my rebuilt transmission I can't do that That's why I think they need to "wear" in some, maybe???
The other thing I thought about, since i don't have the back drive shaft hooked up, the output shaft is kind of spinning with the input shaft. Maybe i need to hook up the rear drive shaft, put oil in the rear axle, put tires on it, to give enough resistance to get the output shaft to not spin with the input shaft? The input/output shafts DO disengage when I clutch it, but I have to grab the rear output with my hand to keep it from turning. The rear output is not getting power when the clutch is pressed in or if the transmission is in neutral, but it still spins a little. Maybe that is throwing the synchronizers off????
03-07-2011, 08:09 PM #467
I had trouble with my Dana 300 not shifting at all it would not stay in gear tell i hooked up me drive shaft, After that is was like night and day how easy it shifted Might be it dont got a load on it
03-07-2011, 08:29 PM #468
Try checking the replacement shift fork. Sometimes one part sticks out too much and binds on another shift rod piece, effectively locking it up. my
03-07-2011, 10:41 PM #469
No problem, I'll give you a complete refund of full purchase price ( and work something out for the cost of parts you bought for it ). Just let me know when to pick it up.
Sorry for the grief. I did have a problem with a replacement shift fork on a T-15. Measured both sides and one side was 1/16 thicker. i sanded it down to manch the other side and had no further problems.
Great work my friend.
If "WE ARE" the result of our past paths,
we need to pay attention to who "OUR PRESENT WALK" is with,
to prepare us "FOR OUR FUTURE DESTINATION"
03-07-2011, 11:08 PM #470
Since the lower housing is working correctly, and there were no previous problems before the rebuild logic would tell us that there is something wrong with the new parts you put in. New synchros take a few miles to wear in good, but that should not be the main cause of your problem. The transmission on my 44 mb is still a little tight from rebuild but it gets better with each drive. However, since the problems come and go, nobody can tell you for sure. I would investigate that new sift fork next, like Mr. Beep said.
Great job, don't feel too bad about the bugs, they are present with every major rebuild. Its a great feeling to finally get them worked out.Brent/Will H.
82 Black SL
03-07-2011, 11:16 PM #471
Got it working correctly, thanks to Jeep Addict LOL
03-08-2011, 07:09 AM #472
03-08-2011, 07:12 AM #473
Appreciate the compliments, too
Ended up being the replacement shift fork, but it is off in several dimensions
03-08-2011, 07:15 AM #474
03-08-2011, 07:45 AM #475
Went back last night and figured out my shifting issue. I went back first to double check the assembly on all the other components, mainly the synchronizers assemblies. Everything is assembled correctly and moves freely with just slight hand pressure. Next, I took apart the shifter housing and replaced the replacement fork with the original fork. Wouldn't you know the top cover slid right on, secured it with the two alignment bolts finger tight, and it shifts perfect
Now, time for my soapbox speech: BEWARE OF SO CALLED "REPALCEMENT" PARTS This particular replacement part is off in several important dimensions/aspects that it can not work as intended. All of my other drive line parts are either OE, Dana Spicer, Timken, or aftermarket (Warn, Centerforce and OX) and everything fits together and works perfectly like it should. This piece of "made in china" garbage should only be used for a paperweight. For now on, when i need to replace a part like this, I will search out a NOS piece or a used part that still is serviceable. I know it is ultimately my fault, i should have switched this part out sooner in my all of my testing, but i wasted 2 days fighting with this cr@p part. I am used to fighting with stuff, but for people new to working on vehicles, this can be very frustrating. If I wasn't so hard headed I probably would have thrown in the towel earlier and took the transmission to a shop that specializes in them to figure it out. Imagine the time that would have cost me let alone the dollar amount. All because a "replacement" part is in fact NOT a replacement part. Rant over.
Picture of the main problem area of the "replacement". Fork on the right is the factory fork. Fork on left is the "replacement". Note how much further it sticks out toward the pointer thing.
Another overall picture of the two side by side.
I marked the "replacement" fork and cut it down to match the factory fork.
Even after making the "replacement" match the factory fork in this dimension, it still would not work. It is too fat, too tall, and the forks are slightly off. Even if I would have machined it down in those areas, and modified the forks, it still would have been suspect. The area where the shifter goes would have been to shallow. I would have to remove the steel insert, also, to possibly get it to work. In the end, I didn't feel like wasting another 4 hours of my life on that cr@p "replacement" part.
The only reason I changed out the fork was to tighten up some "sloppiness" the shifter had. Turns out just the replacement shifter retainer spring and collar fixed this issue. Pic of the problem area that caused the sloppiness.
The slight wear on the factory part is not that bad after all, and it still functions perfectly. I am going to find a NOS or used fork and keep with me in case I have any problems later on. But for now, it works perfectly, shifts fine, and I have no more "sloppiness" . I can move forward, finally.
Last edited by spankrjs; 03-08-2011 at 08:09 AM.
03-08-2011, 10:20 AM #476
03-08-2011, 10:24 AM #477
'84 Alaskan Postal CJ-8: Right-hand drive, World Cab, 35s, outboarded BDS 5" CJ-to-YJ lift with add-a-leafs, XD9000i, PSC armor, Waggy 44/HD20, 4.0/AW4, KC HiLites reverse LED kit, Runck bumpers
'05 Rubicon LJ: Magnum Powers Supercharger, MCE Fenders, JCR sliders, BDS belly-up skidplate, Borla headers & exhaust, , chromoly axleshafts, OR-FAB bumpers, WARN Zeon, JKS JSPEC 3" lift & ACOS Pro front spacers/bumps, 315/75 Duratracs, GR8TOPS Exogate and Safari Cab top, Kleinn OBA, PIAA RF3 cube lights, Inspired Engineering LED headlights, 6-speed, CB, GR8TOPS Safari Cab
'77 Cherokee S 4-door "Mater": Aero Tank aux gas tank, part time kit in tcase, Warn lockouts, 360 with goodies, saggy springs, loads of patina
'08 JK Unlimited: Stock, auto, heated seat
'99 Ford E350 "the bus": Redneck camper/tow rig conversion
All of the pics from the trip | Rockcrawler.com story of bringing the postal home from AK to NC
03-08-2011, 10:26 AM #478
Glad you figured that out. I don't know how they can get away seling some of these aftermarket parts. That "piece" wouldn't have worked for anyone!
"It's not what you buy, it's what you build"
82 Scrambler "Copper" 5.3 Vortec/4L60E/241OR/D44&HD20/4.56 locked
81 Scrambler "Red"...undergoing the "treatment"
87 J20 "Blue"...next in line, waiting for some 'lovin
73 VW Bus- for sale
03-08-2011, 10:35 AM #479
03-08-2011, 10:36 AM #480