Working on my '83 CJ-8 and want to install bed rails with the same dimensions as factory ones. Anyone have the measurements for the rails/pieces so I can fabricate my own? Found some used on Creigs list but the guy wants $200......think he lost his mind.
This web page has the majority of the dimensional information: wood rail specs If you need info on router bits, size and depth, contact me via pm.
To be honest, you'll spend at least $100 in supplies if you go with white oak. On top of that, you have to consider your time, needing a router and drill, sander, etc. $200 for an original set of rails, especially if it comes freshly stained and poly'd, with rear mounting brackets, sounds like a bargain. I have been making new sets - drilled, stained, poly'd for about that after shipping, and my profit margin/hourly rate is marginal, I'd be better off working at McD's. But I've enjoyed doing it...to a point, so I would never discourage you from doing it on your own - it'll be very rewarding.
AJ's got a set in production, but I have one last set in the shoots. If you decide agains doing it yourself, or if the original set on CL isn't cutting it for you, you know where to find me.
Thanks for the info, but want o make a set out of Cedar, which we have plenty of here in the hill country, and it looks great with a clear sealer, and routed around the edge with orange paint in the grooves. Have a fellow that works with Cedar and VERY REASONABLE. Cedar will last a life time, especially the heart wood of the old growth.
Thanks for the attachment. Will start on them soon---I hope. Jeep is in body to have "Whisky Dents" removes---no rust. Will do a minor restoration, like a paint job, but leave the drive train stock for now. Was planning a 351W swap with a beffed up World Class 5 speed like I did in my CJ-7, but the Scrambler has only 45K mils and a shame to pull the running gear. Will drive as long as I can stand the lackof power, then do the swap.
By the way, it didn't cost me near the $200 that was quoted. These were hand cut trees, custom milled boards, cut to length, including the mounting posts. Have to admit, I purhased other items from him, and he gave me a break on the rails. I had to drill the holes myself, but wanted to do it since the jeep didn't have any mounting holes.
Thanks for the kind words. Been working on it for almost 4 months, and finally got it to this point. I did the CJ-7 about 10 years ago, and dropped a 351W in it with a modified World Class 5 Speed and 411 gears with lockers, front and rear. Dropped a 5.0 init initially, but not enough power, even bored and cammed. Not enough torque! Took it to Coloredo like that, big mistake. Lockers infront not so cool going down hill, around the corners on the back roads with a straight drop only inches away. Had to keep kicking it out of 4X4. Going up was great, but not down. Anyway, also have a M38 Military which I'm also working on. Thinking about selling it.........no rust except surface, and still the original paint/markings. Runs great with only 28K original miles.
What happened to the orange paint idea? I was looking forward to seeing how that turned out since I am a big fan of the Orange... also, was the intention to not have the internal groves? They look great BTW, but I was reading the whole thread and was a bit confused as I was expecting something different from what you had mentioned.
'76 ORANGE CJ-5
'76 MAROON CJ-5
'78 SILVER CJ-7
'82 WHITE CJ-8 Build Thread
'83 GREEN UK CJ-7 Build Thread ORANGE JEEP CLUB #41 - SILVER JEEP CLUB #41 SIENNA JEEP CLUB #62 - RHD JEEP CLUB #41 NEWJO Member - Forum
Unhook the sender and observe the gauge. If it goes to 0 with the key on there's an issue with the sender. If it stays at 20 there's either an issue with the gauge, or a short in the wiring, although...