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Best frame paint

fourwheelinj1

CJ-8 Member
City
Raleigh
State
NC
I am getting ready to start prepping my frame for reassembly and I want to get a nice good protective finish on it before I start installing my new lines. My frame is not really rusty at all just a little in a few places. I was planning on treating the rust areas and them painting it with Eastwoods Extreme Chassis Black, but I recently saw a negative review of this product on a members build thread on here. I want a good tough coating that will look good but more importantly last. Suggestions?
 

tiber

Basic User
City
Lake St. Louis
State
MO
Happy with POR15 here...

forum

forum
 

53D Scrambler

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Hampstead
State
NC
Happy with POR15 here...

forum

forum

Ditto. I got a new frame from TDK but still coated it with POR-15. If you use it, please follow their prep process exactly. It makes all the diffference in the finish. That stuff stuck like glue and cured rock hard. I then lightly sanded and primed with POR-15's self etching primer and painted with Eastwoods Extreme Chassis Black. I don't have any complaints about either product. I used the Chassis Black over the POR because POR-15 doesn't have UV protection so exposed areas will turn chalky or fade if not top-coated.

Here's a link to my build with some "ok" pictures.
https://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?37292-The-quot-Once-in-a-while-quot-1983-Scrambler-Laredo-Build/page2
 

Dave K.

Legacy Registered User
City
Milwaukee
State
WI
If you're not working with a bare frame I recommend using something like an oil based enamel implement paint. Good prep will lead to a very durable finish even in salt. I was amazed my frame coating took 3 winters in the slop... then I sold the Jeep so who knows how much longer it will go.
 

LetchcoreCJ7

Legacy Registered User
City
Nashville
State
TN
I don't know if any of you work in the chemical industry but I have often wanted to do some kind of paint performance test. I sandblast most my parts so I start with a rust free surface. Things like paint adhesion, scratch resistance, rust prevention and uv stability would be most important when starting with a clean surface. The cross hatch tape pull test and salt spray test would be a good start to check adhesion and rust prevention.
 

LetchcoreCJ7

Legacy Registered User
City
Nashville
State
TN
The best frame paint I have done is starting with and epoxy primer, then ppg single stage semi gloss with a hardener. That was starting with a sandblasted frame.
 

84scrambler

Legacy Registered User
City
Livermore
State
CA
I went with rustbullet paint. I sandblasted my frame, did the high zinc content base and then covered it with there black. I was very happy with the results. Its still hanging out in my garage after a year so no real durability test. Just make sure if you go por15 that you topcoat, the stuff isn't UV stable. This one of the reasons I went with Rustbullet.
 

jeepmonkster

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Spiro
State
ok
Happy with POR15 here...

leftsideskidplatequickr.jpg

rearuboltskidpltsdrivel.jpg

I was told there was not dumb questions asked on this forum. So can I ask what is with the safety pins in the shocks. Just asking. And I like your frame paint I will be painting mine later in my restoration project.
 

jims chop shop

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
stafford
State
va
I was told there was not dumb questions asked on this forum. So can I ask what is with the safety pins in the shocks. Just asking. And I like your frame paint I will be painting mine later in my restoration project.

Those are the sway-bar disconnects !!
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
I went with Hammerite...not as durable as I had hoped. Low chip resistance, but holding up well otherwise.
 

vinnvegas

Basic User
City
fredericksburg
State
va
Those are the sway-bar disconnects !!

the sway bar makes driving on roads and highways much safer but limits axle travel in offroad situations. So most people that go offroad go with some sort of sway disconnect so that they can have the best of both worlds
 

CBRogers

Perpetual Parts Collector
Lifetime Member
City
Yorktown
State
Va
I think that he is talking about the second picture where it is an optical illusion that makes the double plates axle plates look like a safety pin. The old style that you used to put diapers together with.

They are plated top and bottom to protect the nuts and u-bolts so that they can slide over rocks. JKS used to sell them and I think there are still a few makers out there, but not many.


Carl
 

certifiablejeep

Definitley Certifiable
Lifetime Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
I have used POR-15 as well as a product called zero-rust

http://www.zero-rust.com/

I have that on my CJ5 frame since 2003 or so and ten years later it is holding up great and looks good too.
Prep is key just as everyone has said.

cb
 

hefavitzen

Scrambler Junkie
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
City
Rock Hill
State
SC
I went with Hammerite...not as durable as I had hoped. Low chip resistance, but holding up well otherwise.

Randy, I am doing some investigation on this and other coatings and had a question or two:

1) Hammerite is a lot cheaper than RustBullet.
2) Is Hammerite easy to "touch up" if you see chips or do you really need to recoat the whole thing? I think that car restoration is a business for you, so what do you use when it is a customers car?
3) Any experience with RustBullet? Looks like you need to start early in the morning and plan on finishing about sun down but the marketing makes it sound like the second coming. An undercarraige kit is $239 shipped. I need to to axles, spring packs and frame (with the body still in place) so I am considering it. That isn't horrible if it will cover all of that.

Ugh, spending money is scary.
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
Less and less impressed with the Hammerite as time passes. I had adequately prepped the frame, degreasing and scuffing the surface. Chips were easy to touch up, but now the bond between the base coat and the Hammerite is failing in places, leaving large patches sloughing off. My thought is I sprayed it from a sprayer and it went on thick- even following their instructions. Thick layers tend to bond well to themselves but not to the base, and that's what mine is doing. Pretty disgusted. I have never had problems like this with the rattle can stuff. I'm probably going to use the POR product on my next builds. POR does seem to be pretty forgiving on surface prep, but don't let that be an excuse to slack in that area. I've never used the Rust Bullet. I have used the POR on customers cars before with good luck. I've also used single stage auto paint when requested, and it still looks good too. That was on a contrasting color frame.
 
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jeepmonkster

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Spiro
State
ok
POR 15 . If you get it on you, you will wear it for a week. I could not find anything to remove it. GOOD STUFF
 

cattleman1977

CJ-8 Member
City
Delavan
State
KS
My frame goes to the blaster tomorrow morning. I have been on POR15's website this evening. For those of you who've used it which product do I need to buy? Do I need a preparation product as well?
 

gazzo

AMC Jeep nutjob
Lifetime Member
City
Fremantle
State
WA
I put Chassis Coat directly on to freshly blasted frame, like within an our or two. Two coats of that followed by Top Coat. Waxy looking goodness. Overspray (if spraying) will cover the floor and stay there so be prepared for that. Maybe hose the floor before you start.
 
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