100 day summer rebuild

My father and i are diving it to a full restoration project this summer. i am a freshmen in college and we are going to hit the ground running starting may 16th. I plan to do at least one post a day tracking the progress and hopefully getting feed back. We are in the process of setting up the shop and pre ordering all the things we need to inshore a speedy process. My summer is only 100 days long and we plan to go all the way down to the frame and back up. We are working with a limited budget but we have planned for obstacles. The scrambler we bought is a 1981 with an AMC 360 v8, Dana 300, and a T3. It has been rebuilt once before and has pieces from more then one jeep. There are some weird frame mounts but for $4500 this jeep was well worth the price. Im driving it around campus until finals are done then the race is off to see if we can actually do this.

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The weird mount that i was talking about


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overall project goal

• daily driver
• safely pull my boat
• Handle moderate off-roading
• Comfortable(ish) highway driving
• Be drivable by the end of the summer

My father has a solid automotive background but this is the first jeep he has worked on. I am learn everything from a minimum knowledge standpoint (I will Need help and advice along the way, I have talked to Mrbeed and jerseyjeeps about spending some one on one time to get help when needed)

modifications
• Disc brake
• back seat
• (make a FAST BACK full hard top)
• 2-3 inch lift
• (maybe swap out the 360 for a 258)
• heater
• Fuel injected
• lockers
• 33” tires
Along with others that will help the function of the jeep without changing the appearances (I will need recommendations here)

when I'm done i hope it will look like this
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Sounds great , I'm watching. !!

Get at it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sounds like a great way to spend a summer!

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went to the lake today

Sounds interesting. I'll be watching.

Subscribed. Sounds like a great father/son project.

Just a suggestion, I would prioritize your modifications list for the build. Going all the way down to the frame and back up doesn't leave a lot of time to work on things like a custom hardtop or engine swap issues in 100 days. That kind of thing can always be done down the road. Having a good, solid, rust-free frame and protecting it with some good epoxy primer or por-15 or something similar in order to have a good base to build off of in the future is important. Getting all the drive-line, steering components, and electrical sorted out and functioning reliably is important. Body and paint can wait if it must but I know for me having something I'm proud to be seen driving always makes me more motivated to continue to work on it as time moves on. I think your project is ambitious but doable if you stay focused and have a good plan to follow. Good luck!

Polarfire said:

Just a suggestion, I would prioritize your modifications list for the build. Going all the way down to the frame and back up doesn't leave a lot of time to work on things like a custom hardtop or engine swap issues in 100 days. That kind of thing can always be done down the road. Having a good, solid, rust-free frame and protecting it with some good epoxy primer or por-15 or something similar in order to have a good base to build off of in the future is important. Getting all the drive-line, steering components, and electrical sorted out and functioning reliably is important. Body and paint can wait if it must but I know for me having something I'm proud to be seen driving always makes me more motivated to continue to work on it as time moves on. I think your project is ambitious but doable if you stay focused and have a good plan to follow. Good luck!

Click to expand...

When it come to custom hard tops and engine swaps i can understand that i will be straining my time, and you are defiantly right when it come to prioritizing and making sure i have a solid frame to build on. In all realism there will be parts of this project that will get pushed back but i like to stay in the mind set that i will be able to complete all of these modifications because i helps me stay optimistic and productive on some of the critical areas.

BY THE WAY...... i really would like to encourage all of you more experienced CJ veterans To leave suggestions on this thread as i go. Don't be afraid to tell me I'm doing to all wrong... i probably am!

On a different note may dad and i took the scrambler to the farm today:

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Day 1:

cleared out the garage for the first time in years.... tomorrow will be the start of a long project!
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day 2:

today we got the seats out, drained the radiator, pulled out the heater, did some fiberglass work on the top where it was cracked, took the fenders off, got a ton of stuff at harbor freight, and put it up on jacks... We only broke one or two bolts, in the tailgate, and hood... still not sure how to get the treads out


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Better invest and a good set of easy-outs for the broken bolts (not Harbor Freight brand). Also start soaking every nut and bolt you're going to have to take out with PB Blaster now!

heat can go a long way with frozen bolts as well. If you ultimately have to drill them out, be careful to stay centered.

Was also going to suggest fire or butane torch as well.

YouTube is you friend here as well. Lots of videos on removing broken bolts if you haven't done it before.

Good Luck!

Day 3:

my father and i went sailing to day, he didn't feel up for a lot of wrench time so i did what i could without him... i started on the brakes, pulled there stearing wheel, took off the grill and windshield, and started fighting with the roll bar bolts... PB Blaster is my new best friend and i used my new easy-outs today but some of the stripped nuts are still being stubborn!!!!

what is the best why to get the roll bar bolts out

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HEAT!!!! and a lot of it!

cb

Cherry red nuts removes stubborn torx bolts! Remove the gas tank first or you could end up with more than cherry red nuts.

LetchcoreCJ7 said:

Cherry red nuts removes stubborn torx bolts! Remove the gas tank first or you could end up with more than cherry red nuts.

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Absolutely agree. go with at least a MAPP gas torch (the yellow bottle) and even better a small oxy acetyline setup, a little pricey but pays for its self in the long run.