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Opinions for 700R4 to Dana 300 adapters

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Morning,

I was wondering if I could get some personal opinions/experiences for people that have used an adapter for the 700R4 to Dana 300.

I will be swapping in an 89 TBI 4.3 and 700R4 into my scrambler. I've been looking at Advanced Adapters, Novak and even the NP208 factory adapter (with aftermarket shaft) as options.

Am I missing any better options? Is there anything that I need to research more?

Thanks,

Mark
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
My Tan Scrambler came with a TBI 350/700R4, adapted to the Dana 300 with a Novak adapter. The Novak adpater that my Scrambler has is an older version that they do not make anymore.

That being said, it works fine. I called Novak to get some information on this old adapter, and even though I was not the original purchaser of said adapter, they were more then willing to help me out. So, Novak will give great customer support. I have also had good luck with Advance Adapters.

Biggest issue with a 700R4/4L60 and a Dana 300 combination: the width of the transmission forces you to run a small OD front driveshaft. With stock width axles, you can not run a large OD front shaft, it will hit the transmission case :twocents:

I have tore up the slip shaft in my front driveshaft twice, BUT, I am running more power then the 4.3, not scared of the pedal, 33" tires, use it off road quite frequently, etc. The long front driveshaft length, coupled with the small OD, is not the best, but it will work. I have not broke the front drive shaft yet, the slip shaft just wears faster then normal. That being said, I fixed the front shaft before a week of high RPM wheeling in the Michigan sand dunes, it is still fine :twocents:
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
Get a factory 241C pass drop case. Costs less than the aftermarket adapter and gives more clearance than a D300. No output shaft to change, uses a factory adapter. The only drawback is that the 241C is longer in stock form- JB Conversions makes a short shaft kit. (SYE kit). If it matters, the 241C shifts like butter, but you can't twin stick it.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Thanks for the input. I've also been looking around for a 241C, just in case one pops up. Does anyone know how much longer a 241C is vs a 300?

My concern with the 300 is much the same as others. Since my scrambler likely wont be lifted or have wider axles, the front driveshaft clearance might be an issue.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I'm not 100% positive, but pretty sure, looking under my tan Scrambler that has a 4.5" suspension lift, pretty sure a non-lifted CJ/700R4 combo would result in NO conventional front driveshaft clearance. You would have to build a two piece drive shaft, with a frame mounted pillow block of some sort :twocents: :shrug:
 

jbeemer

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
Conklin
State
MI
I used a factory 208 adapter. There is one hole that needs to be opened up with a die grinder. not a big deal. It worked fine. I had a bunch of lift, 14" of travel. Chevy Dana 60 front. My motor and trans where shifted 1" to the drivers side, Trimmed the small flange of the pan, and ran a 1 7/8" OD 1/4" wall front shaft. The only time it touched the pan is when I broke both motor mounts. :crazy:
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
So as a follow up, I called advanced adapters and Novak today. Both companies were super helpful. However both also stated that if the jeep isn’t lifted the 700r4 and Dana 300 will not have enough clearance. So the option is lift the jeep (wife said no) or find an no 241c and install a SYE.

As Raymond and jbeemer states above, a lift will make the combo work. Both Novak and advance said 2-3” of lift is sufficient.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Just a follow up, and some pictures, everyone loves pictures.

A few pictures/information on the older Novak 700R4 to Dana 300 adapter my tan Scrambler has. I left some of the relevant information with the below pictures from when I initially was messing with this, back in April of 2013.



I used the following seal, it was a match for the National Seal that was in there. I like this seal better, it is a "double lip" seal. This seal is very important. There is no rear seal installed in the back of the 700R4. This seal is all that keeps the ATF from leaking past the output shaft. Actually, fluid will leak past the output shaft. This seal keeps the fluid from going into the Dana 300 side of the adapter.

IMAG0796_zps9c367d15-1.jpg



The seal installed. I used some sealant around the outer edge of the seal. I also greased up the seal lip. This picture shows the back of the adapter that bolts to the face of the Dana 300. Note the large o-ring seal that seals the adapter to the face of the transfer case.

IMAG0797_zps3dc05fba-1.jpg



This picture shows the front of the adapter, that bolts to the 700R4. Note the "square" o-ring that seals the adapter to the transmission


IMAG0798_zps5adff4e0-1.jpg



When you bolt the adapter to the transfer case, these number must be at the top, or the "clocking" will not be right.


IMAG0799_zpsa187f158-1.jpg



I would also like to give a big THANK YOU to NOVAK. Even though I did not buy this adapter from them, I contacted them about it. They were very helpful. They went back and looked through their archives, since this is an older/no longer produced adapter, and emailed me the instructions, and offered to answer any questions that I may have. If I ever need to buy an adapter, I know who to go to. Top notch customer support, even though I was not a customer. A huge THANK YOU to Novak, highly recommended.

I then bolted the adapter to the transmission. Easy enough. The fun part, bolting the Dana 300 to the adapter. The adapter fits super, super tight around the 300's input shaft retainer. The holes in the adapter that line up with the transfer case studs is also an exact/precise fit. These two facts, coupled to the fact that their is a very important seal installed in the adapter, which would be easy to knock out, ruled out the old "bench press the transfer case back in" install method. I tried this, and failed.

So, I put the transfer case on a floor jack, raised it to position, and got the transmission output shaft to spline into the transfer case input shaft. I had to shift the t-case to 2wd, so I could get the spline to line up. Once the splines were engaged, I put the t-case back in neutral. Now, all this time, the splines are barely engaged, maybe a 1/4". Once back in neutral, I rotated the transfer case to the correct position, and gently shoved it forward. It stopped when the transfer case input shaft housing met the adapter. Once I verified the alignment, I gently pulled the two units together using two slightly loner bolts. Like I mentioned before, the fit between the adapter and the input shaft is super tight, you can not shove the two together. After gently pulling the the two together, i installed the correct bolts/nuts.

The re-installed transfer case.

IMAG0803_zps9867f193-1.jpg



Picture from the top, note the numbers are at the top.

IMAG0805_zpsce6386e9-1.jpg



Now, after reinstalling the transfer case/skid plate, I did some head scratching. I do not like how the PO lowered the skid plate. But, there is not much choice. The size of the transmission (depth) almost dictates this. Also, if the skid is not lowered, the transfer case would hit it. While I don't necessarily like this, for now, I am going to go with it. Once I get the Scrambler running, I am going to revisit this issue. The engine needs to be sitting at about a 4 degree down hill slope. I am not sure where it is set currently. Once i get it running, and on level ground, I can do some more checking. I "might" be able to space the entire engine upward, then move the skid plate up, too. No chance of clocking the transfer case with the 700R4, the front drive shaft clearance, as is, will be tight.

Side shot, showing the home made drop. If I have to keep it dropped, i will install a continuous drop spacer, and install the middle bolts on each side.


IMAG0806_zpse45f6de3-1.jpg



Rear shot, showing the minimal space between the bottom of the transfer case and the skid plate. Also, note the minimal exhaust clearance. I might just have to live with the drop, unless I want to reinvent everything.

IMAG0807_zpsad874eac-1.jpg



Picture showing clearance between the transmission pan and the skid plate. No room for a fancy, deep pan. The current pan has a drain plug, so I will probably keep it. I plan on dropping the pan, changing the filter, and installing a Lube Locker gasket. I will probably also install a temperature gauge sending unit port in the side of the pan, too.

IMAG0808_zps231fb1bc-1.jpg



Link to the original post, Post #191:


https://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?32726-Spankrjs-1984-Long-Term-Project/page13
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
A few pictures of the front driveshaft clearance issue.

NOTE - I have either the old 4" Superlift springs, or the newer 4.5" Rubicon Express springs installed when these pictures were taken. You MIGHT get by with a 2.5" lift, but it would be close, bump stops height would be critical.

ALSO, like jbeemer mentioned, offsetting the engine/power train toward the driver side is critical. On mine, I have maybe 3/4" clearance between the driver side exhaust manifold and the steering shaft. at the tightest spot.


IMAG0980_zps2d357a56-1.jpg


IMAG1030_zpsa7d55813-1.jpg


IMAG1027_zps51de2313-1.jpg


IMAG1028_zpsb1f3e43b-1.jpg


IMAG1029_zps419b8fe6-1.jpg



Older picture showing steering shaft/exhaust manifold clearance, with the engine offset to the driver side:


IMAG1040_zps13ed0fa3-1.jpg
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Alright, I am planning to use the NP241C. The only thing I am concerned with is my original speedometer.

http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np241c_j_std_sye.php

That one looks like the ticket, mentions mechanical speedometer. But, the bottom states that it is designed to be used with drivers side output transfer cases.

Does anyone have experience with JB Conversions? I've sent them an email and tried calling without any response.

Goal is to use the original jeep speedo, and a jags that run VSS (if necessary) with my 89 TBI 4.3.
 
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