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Thread: Taking Built CJ7 apart to make CJ8 For Winter Use

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Thank everyone, I enjoy all of the builds everyone's doing. Much of the info. you can't get and the manufacture of the parts never tell you the real world how and whys of the parts we use to improve out rides. Love the learning you get from watching (even if I don't post as often as I should).

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Bouncing around on the order of work done. I finished straightening out the cowl where the windshield gasket sits. Ruffed up the fiberglass and used Dura Glass to level out the cowl both from side to side and also front to back. Did it in two passes. Most people can't believe how far off the fiberglass bodys are off. When done it's flat at the ends where the windshield hinges sit, leveled out across. Also the front is about 3/8" thick in the center and 1/8" thick at the cab side (deepest is where the center of the defrost holes are. This is after the inside cab dash lip was raised to about 1/8" low. Wanted to get enough for dura glass for strength. Dura glass is waterproof so leaks or condensation won't be absorbed and dura glass gets a better bond than filler (which absorbs water).
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  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Still correcting mistakes the previous owner did when he got the body and manufacture short comings. Both the vent hole and fuel filler holes were not cut square to the body. Filler was cut about 1/4" at a angle (part of reason he was a little too close to tailgate, didn't check underside to see glassed in reinforcement. Cowl vent hole was off a good 1/4". Cowl is a easy fix, I previously made 2 solid vent covers since the vents not used with the vintage air setup and the vent makes install and maintenance easier. Otherwise I would have glassed over the hole. 2nd cover is for the original cj8 build for after I get it going I'll probably do a vintage air setup (few years down the line).
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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Yesterday I did the cowl dura glass, filler and cowl vent. I also sanded down the tub and ended up correcting where the manufacture had dry spots and pitting. Also corrected what the previous owner did. He sanded the outside with what looks like 40 or 60 grit sanding paper by hand. Looks like he used it to try to get good adhesion but actually cut through the gel coat. Then he tried to do a thin layer of body fill to try to smooth the body out (waves). Then used 80 grit to sand the filler. Problem is filler was so thin that he didn't need to shape it and ended putting large scratches including large gashes. Then went over with primer trying to fill the gashes and scratches. He never got the body level (which was the purpose of the filler). When sanding with the DA, found 2 different fillers (probably used different color hardeners) and where he sanded the filler thin, the bad gel coat was exposed, finish was like someone spot sandblasted. Sanded out and smoothed the filler and blemishes. Drivers side he had problems with, Pass side he learned not to use the lower grit, smooth but still wavy. It's not a corvette, not worried about the wave. I also started sanding the inside of tub. Found he sanded the floor good but barely sanded the sides, primer just chipped off with the DA. Decided to go overboard on the inside. Don't like the way they did seams and used pop rivets to hold together (they also glued the pieces with fiberglass bonding adhesive) I'm going to epoxy primer than while wet (after flashing off) spray Rapture bedliner. Give it some durability and help deaden the sound. I need to epoxy primer the outside and then filler primer to make sure I got all the scratches and flaws I may not see
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  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Here's where I left off with the sanding. Need to clean up and primer, waiting for more primer.
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  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    After I test fit the body on the frame I cleaned the fenders and hood. Found the fenders were from 09-04-2009. Also found the fenders had stress cracks. Sanded the fenders and hood to get to fresh gel coat. Also sanded some of the stress cracks to see if they were into the fiberglass. Most were in the gel coat. A few were into the fiberglass. For a daily driver they'll work. Seems these fiberglass fenders have a habit of flexing but being brittle.
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  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Sanded the underside of the tub, hood and fenders. Sprayed epoxy on these parts then when they flashed off sprayed bed liner. They're all ready for tape and primer. Probably going to paint white. I have 3 quarts of centari gloss white enamel. White will show less of the wave that's in the fiberglass tub. Also have the paint so that's covered.
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  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    While doing the fenders I sanded the grill, smoothed out the spot welds some with body filler then epoxy primered the grill. When dried wet sanded the primer, ready for filler primer. Not trying to get grill completely straight, just make it so the spot welds weren't as deep and grill wasn't as wavy. It was as if they used a ball peen hammer and hit where they were going to put the spot weld, then did the spot weld. Put a straight edge across and they are approx. 1/4 inch deep dishing out the size of silver dollar. If this would have been the other cj8 I would have sent it back.
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  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    City/State
    River Ridge, La
    Posts
    412
    Where did the grill come from ?

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Crown Automotive. Didn't expect a great product. Didn't expect that bad though. Even had to hammer the bottom edge so it matched the other side (other side of body mount). Wanted something that I could use the epoxy primer and get into all seams to minimize rust.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    City/State
    Berlin, ct
    Scrambler Year
    1984 CJ8 / 1980 CJ5
    Year Purchased
    2010
    Posts
    1,046
    Quote Originally Posted by jammer1 View Post
    Bouncing around on the order of work done. I finished straightening out the cowl where the windshield gasket sits. Ruffed up the fiberglass and used Dura Glass to level out the cowl both from side to side and also front to back. Did it in two passes. Most people can't believe how far off the fiberglass bodys are off. When done it's flat at the ends where the windshield hinges sit, leveled out across. Also the front is about 3/8" thick in the center and 1/8" thick at the cab side (deepest is where the center of the defrost holes are. This is after the inside cab dash lip was raised to about 1/8" low. Wanted to get enough for dura glass for strength. Dura glass is waterproof so leaks or condensation won't be absorbed and dura glass gets a better bond than filler (which absorbs water).
    I had this exact problem but went about it in a different manner. I made a sub frame to go under the cowl and force it straight. I tapped the subframe for the dashboard mounts and made mounts on it for behind the window hinges. It is very strong and eliminates having to reach up inside the dash for the bolts when ever the dash or the window frame needs to be removed.
    MY RIDES:
    1984 CJ-8
    1961 Willys Wagon

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    That's a good idea. I was going to drill a extra hole where the dash mounts (but not through the dash) and use a grind most of the head off. This would give me a mounting point to drop a bracket down to catch the front of the vintage air unit that I have in the cj7. Your subframe would make that and other mounting points move secure and easier to tie into. Good idea.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Shot 2 coats of epoxy on the tub and parts. Then shot 2 coats of filler primer. Half doors have been repaired and sitting in epoxy so shot them with 2k filler primer with the other parts. Half doors are going to get painted and used on other cj8 build.
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  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    City/State
    W-S, NC
    Posts
    527
    man how I wish I could paint, or you were closer!
    Good stuff. Keep it rolling

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    City/State
    Maple Hts., Oh
    Posts
    1,458
    Thanks, not great, just hopefully good enough. Today wet sanded primer, exposed some of deeper blemishes I knew I couldn't sand out. Did glazing putty, sanded, washed and ready to shoot seal coat (hopefully I get everything).

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