never mind the yukons!!! NEED NEW AXLES!

ok..after finally getting a battery into my micrometer...i find my yukon axle shaft is junk. So since they want 200 bucks for 1 axle...and these suckers only lasted about 20k off road miles....I am looking for something better. What axles is everyone running?
From what I have found lately....seems like Mosers are the ony of the old names left. I cant find SB's, and i for got the others...but...what are yall running...and how long have they held up.

thanks,
-JT

If you can find it, I highly recommend the Warn Full Float Rear Axle conversion. I run this in my trail CJ-7 and highly recommend it. No more rear axle bearing to press on and off. Makes the back like the front end, two press in wheel bearing in the hub, hollow spindle for drive axle to pass through. And, if you bust a axle, pull off lock in hub(dont even have to take off tire) and slide busted shaft out, put lock in hub back on, keep on driving. Or, if you grenade the diff, unlock both hubs, disconnect drive shaft from T-case, let the rear end roll free(only tires turn, like the front when you unlock the hubs). I have run this set up since 2003, probably 60,000 miles, no problems. Running 33" Swampers, 304 V8, T18 Tranny, and not scared of the skinny pedal. Only prob is cost, close to $900

i read that they no longer manufacture the kit...and they are basicly impossible to find. Unfortunatley i think i am stuck with whatever is in the current market.

thanks for the idea though.

that is the 2nd time this week I have heard that Yukon is junk BUT I have no personal experience with it.

I am running stock D60 and FF 14 bolt axles but would love to upgrade to stronger shafts. When I do, I will be looking into Moser. A buddy of mine has a CJ5 with a ridiculously built 401 in it. He does not wheel a lot but uses the Jeep to pull trees / stumps out of the woods. He has broken his tcase but not his Amc 20 Moser one piece rear axle. Jeep is pushing 450 hp, lol, so yeah, I'm going with Moser.

thats what I have been thinking also. And they arent priced too bad.

That sucks the Warn Full Float kit is no longer available, hope I never brake it I switched to Warn after I broke a Moser doing 60mph down the highway. No fun when a back tire passes you up

from what I read...they will continue to make replacement breakable parts...just no more kits.


my yukons would have let the tire pass me too...but luckily i put on the disk brakes...the caliper/rotor held it in for me.

superior vs moser??

Exacty what went wrong with the Yukon axles?

I have had them in my Jeep for several years now and they've been okay.

If you can find a Scout II rear, they're Dana 44s. I've run one with an ARB and 4.09 gears for years. They're 58" wide. They have bigger drum brakes and usually cheaper to buy for the whole thing than an axle set.

boomer:

I put them in about 4 years ago..one day the wife and i came back from a trail ride...and i smelled that pungent smell...luckily we were only a mile or so from home so when i got to the house the outer seal completely let go and dumped axle juice all over the concrete. Apparently the bearing had failed and froze...then came loose (towards the outside). If I hadnt upgraded to the disks...the whole thing would have come off. So I pull the axle and the bearings' surface is chewed up. So now i need a new axle. It was obviously due to lack of lube....so this time I am going to leave the inner seal out.Or possibly follow a chunk of advise I read on another forum, and install a zerk on top...and a grease expansion seal to be able to keep them wet without having to pull and repack every few months.


and the kicker is that Randys wants 200 for 1 axle....not including bearings. 200!!!! the whole freaking kit is only 260.

buy the kit and keep it as a spare.

Was it the axles fault it blew or the design of the diff itself or something else?

I'm looking for an upgrade to the D60 from my J20 so will keep an eye out on this.

Cheers

I always put the inner seal in, packed the bearings with good grease, and never had a bearing fail for lack of lube. The problem I always had was that the bearings would just plain wear out (i.e. get loose). I could get about 4 years or around 50000 miles out of a set of bearings (trail riding,highway,daily driver, 33 swampers) and then it would be time to replace.

One time I left the seals out and let them run in gear oil, but the seal started leeaking about 1 month later. I think that housing might have been bent a little

Did you use RTV between the seal plate and Brake baking plate?