So did you end up getting condensors from Jeep Air?
Yes. I bought the “universal” condenser (it comes with DIY brackets), dryer (with mount), hoses, and R-134 conversion valves (mounted right up to the York compressor). No one seems to make a direct replacement for the CJ condenser, and dryers are pretty much fungible for any make/model.
I'd prefer to keep the flanged fittings. Underdash units are easy to go in, , I have the Sanden compressors and brackets. I'll need condensers for both of the uninstalled setups, so need to figure out the best source for those. Also figured I'd have new hoses made since I plan on switching to R134.
I kept the flanged fittings to/from the evaporator (I even used the OEM hoses — 1 to compressor suction, 1 from dryer outlet) that go with them. Jeep air sells “flange to O-ring” adaptor for the different hose sizes. Work perfectly.
https://jeepair.com/fittings/10-oring-to-flare-adapter.html
https://jeepair.com/fittings/12-oring-to-flare-adapter.html
What all wiring has to be run to install A/C on a non-AC jeep? I know there are fan and compressor spots on the fuse box, but have never really looked closely at what all has to be run in the way of wires.
Those two wires are all you need under dash (there are 4 wires associated with the evaporator/blower, 2 connect to each other for some reason, and power/clutch are the other two). I ordered Buick connectors and plugged directly into the respective fuse block placeholders for simplicity.
In the engine bay, you will likely find an existing brown wire that (that you can test once you get the under dash wiring hooked up — 12v signal when the blower is turned on) runs to the dryer low-pressure switch. The switch interrupts power to the compressor clutch on low refrigerant pressure). The other side of the switch runs to the only wire on the compressor. The compressor is self grounded through the mount/block.
By far (far) the most difficult issue I had was gather the right combination of pulleys, spacers, etc. To get the belt spacing right, I had to replace both the crank pulley (going from 1 to 2 belts) and the water pump/fan pulley (going from 2 to 1 belt). I also had to install a spacer (I bought one from Collins Bros and then promptly had to cut in half — you need about 1/4”) between the fan pulley and the fan to get it to clear the belts — any more than about 1/2” and the fan wanted to rub the radiator.
The next issue I had was finding the “right” upper radiator hose. The stock one fit like a glove, but the small issue of riding on the new compressor belt... took several trip to the auto parts store to find something I could use (after cutting up several — like an exhaust mock up).
After that, make sure the compressor is drained of oil (factory compressors of the day, especially York, used mineral oil — which will do nasty things to your system if mixed with R-134. The local AC shop can do that for you if you want. I just wanted to make sure it was gone, and it was easy to do before installing.
A quick evacuation (testing for leaks — there weren’t any!) and 2# of R-134 later and I have ice-cold air... just as the outside temp hit 90F... even with the doors off it makes a HUGE difference!!!
p.s. Don’t forget to install an evaporator drain tube — that thing drains a LOT more water than you’d think it would. My carpet was very wet just form the drive home. I couldn’t find a picture of the correct routing, so I just drilled more or less down into the transmission tunnel — just enough forward of the drain to give the hose a natural bend radius.
Don’t hesitate to ask about anything else. I’ll do what I can. I didn’t take a lot of pictures because I discovered that a lot depends on what manufacture/belt/engine you have, but I sure did learn a lot.
Regards,
Bill