Recent content by CJocho

HI everyone. I'm trying to get my 84 postal (6 cylinder) up and running but I need a fuel tank. The fuel tank that came with the postal doesn't have a sending unit or any of the hardware needed. I do have a spare fuel tank with all of the hardware from my 84 base model (4 cylinder) scrambler...

The first thing I did was get my brother's circuit tester instead of using the multimeter. I attached the positive lead of the circuit tester to the positive post of the car battery. I then removed the plug from the switch. With the gear lever in the park position, I touched the tip of the...

FLCJ8, I appreciate the "novel" of information and suggestions. The amount of help being provided to me is much appreciated. I should have a half an hour or so this evening to give it another go and test the NSS itself. I do have a couple of questions about your procedure. 1. What do you...

With my multimeter set at DC 20, I obtained a reference measurement from the battery of 12.20. Then I placed the negative lead of my multimeter on the NSS wire (black wire), while simultaneously connecting the positive lead of the multimeter to the positive post of the battery. The reading I got...

3 wires. Red, white, and black.

Ag4ever, In your instructions you say to: "Shift into park and test for continuity from a good ground to the black wire from the NSS (or voltage from the positive terminal to the black wire). Shift to neutral (after ensuring the wheels are chocked) and test again. If you don’t get continuity...

With the few spare minutes I had during lunch I tried to tackle the next few steps as outlined by ag4ever. Without fail the boot had some pretty rusty screws with virtually non-existent phillips channels in the heads. After a few minutes with the dremel I was able to get a straight edge scored...

I tested the neutral safety switch function with the multimeter. The battery was reading 12.21V at the start of the test. With the car in PARK, I placed the multimeter positive lead (red) on the positive post of the battery, and then connected the negative lead (black) to the switch return wire...

To begin, thank you so much to all of you who are helping me with this. This community has been beyond helpful. I'm sure my questions are very elementary and novice to you all. But to me, it's teaching me so much that I will hopefully carry on with me and someday teach my boys. But I digress...

So I just tested the blue wire by placing the positive probe of my multimeter into it. I then placed the negative probe onto the alternator housing. I set my multimeter to 2000m DC Voltage. When my wife turned the ignition (while holding our 1 year old -she's a very patient woman), the...

Well this evening I finally got some time to work on this problem. I was able to get the starter to crank via FLCJ8's method with the jumper cables. It's good to know my brand new starter and battery work. I guess now I need to figure out why I'm not able to get it to crank via they ignition...

FLCJ8, thanks for the info on the blue and red wire distinction. I just checked and you are correct that the solenoid has the "I" and "S" stamping. I didn't have much time to work on it today but I did have time to see if I could manually turn over via the crank. Good news is that it turned...

Ag4ever, I think the photo I previously uploaded had an optical illusion. The blue and red wires are in fact on the opposing side of the solenoid. That being said, I'm having trouble getting this Postal going. Here is what I have done so far: 1. New battery. 2. New starter. 3. New solenoid...

Can anyone tell me what this connector is supposed to do? It appears to be so badly corroded that it is not making contact with the male end of the solenoid connector. Also, anyone one know what it's called and where I can pick one up?

Yup, I have the brackets I need with the headliner. Thanks for everyone's help.