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Someone called it a TJ 6

don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Well I have gotten some time to work on the CJ6. Doing things like brake lines and air lines for the lockers. First time sense the platform change over to post so I will see what I can mess up.

Start to rear brake lines.
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Out to the brakes.
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Brake line and Fuel line, filter and regulator. (Hoping I have figured out what it will take to get fuel to the motor at the correct pressure.
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Up the frame towards the motor and master cylinder
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don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Starting air lines for the rear ARB locker.

At the rear housing. Change to AN3 braided line instead of the ARB line.
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Change it steel line to go up the frame.
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Up the frame toward the front. Plan on putting the compressor on the right front fender.
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don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Working the on front now. Brakes and Front ARB locker air lines.

Front brake flex line installed. If you look close you can see the 2 holes where the original bracket was installed. I found out the hard way on my LJ the if you are crossed up and turn the wheel the right way you can tear the hard line out of the fitting. So I move them forward up against the shock tower.
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Other side front, moved it as well.
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The front ARB air line and the front brake lines in position.
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The fitting to go back to AN3 flex line to run to the compressor when ready.
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don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
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City
Farmington
State
NM
I have been playing with the drivers side exhaust trying to see if I can get the exhaust run around the front of the motor to tie in the passenger side and go back from there.

I am not have much luck at it.
3.8 liter manifold, power steering is in the way.
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Close up view.
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I tried a 4.3 passenger side manifold and it is too wide and hits the frame, can't even get it in there. I have have just use the standard manifold and get creative when I do the exhaust. I am looking into using a Type II pump with a remote reservoir. I am not sure even that will clear the exhaust.

I will add some more pictures showing why I want to go around the front.
 

don87401

Original Owner
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Put the 4.3 manifold back on and took another look, maybe I don't need to go around front. So here is what I am seeing.

The manifold sits inside the frame rails and appears to have enough room to get the exhaust down and under the firewall.
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The body sits above the frame rail. The bottom of the body sits about 1 1/4 in above the rail.
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The bottom of the level is sitting about where the floor of the body would be when on the frame.
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Looks like there is enough room to run an exhaust pipe through there with no problem. (the bracket on the back of the t-case is just and extra support).
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A reference point to see the spacing.
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don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Spent the last 2 weeks in the home made paint booth priming and coating the body and various other parts.
The bottom, firewall (inside and out), and the inside floor and rear fenders all received Lizard Skin sound and heat coating and Raptor tint-able bed liner. The out side is the Raptor liner again. Those place will be covered with the quarter panel guards and rocker guards. I wanted something a bit more durable between those and the body so I used bed liner. The bear metal still showing will get shinny paint as will the hood, grill, front fender and top.
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MrBeep

CJ-8 Vendor Supporter
Member
SOA Member
CJ-8.com Vendor
City
Dillsboro
State
IN
Looks great. I had a 1973 CJ-6 Export that I purchased with 630 miles on it. Played with it for a few years and sold it wit 1,588 miles on it. One of my mistakes.:banghead: It was right hand drive with a T-15 trans. that was challenging for a while.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Did you find a manifold that worked well for your exhaust? I bought 2, 2 1/4” J bends from jegs. I used the factory s10 manifolds and cut and welded the J bends from the passenger manifold around the starter under the front of the pan. It then joins with the drivers side by the brake proportioning valve. I heat wrapped the whole thing. It is within 1/4” of the oil pan and an inch of the proportioning valve but doesn’t seem to get too hot with the heat wrap.

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don87401

Original Owner
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City
Farmington
State
NM
I think I have enough room to run both straight back and either go full dual out or go 2 to 1 muffler and single out. HOW ever that is one idea I did not consider, dropping out of the rear facing manifold and come back around. I will have to take a second look at that. But mine will need to run down the passenger side for the most room. But still an idea I did not explore.
 
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sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
I thought of running duals as well, but everywhere I looked was a tight fit. What pushed me to do it this was is how the O2 sensor works on the TBI 4.3. On the V8s, it is common to have the O2 sensor on one side, as each injector feeds 2/4 cylinders on each side. On the 4.3 an injector only feeds one cylinder on one side, and two on the other. I don't know if it really makes much of a difference, but that was what pushed my decision.
 

don87401

Original Owner
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Day one of reassembly!!!! Auto back from rebuild time to get the chassis put together and ready for the painted parts. By the end of the day had the trany bolted up, torque converter bolted up and the whole mess bolted down to the chassis.

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Day 2, KluneV and T-case sealed up and full of oil. Chasing hoses and fitting for the axles and for the and Klune-V vent lines. Next step finish vent lines and start installing the shift cables for the auto, and klune-V, add dip stick and kick down cable to auto, cooling lines for the auto. waiting on some parts for that.

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don87401

Original Owner
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City
Farmington
State
NM
More parts going on the last couple of days.
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don87401

Original Owner
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Did a couple of things to day. Ran the vent lines back to near the gas filler hoses, going to tie them up there.
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I have an after market under dash A/C, heater combo. Figured out how and where to mount some time ago, now looking at where I can and have to run both sets of lines. Being it is behind the battery tray more or less figuring out where the holes in the firewall needed to be.

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One of the lines is going to line up have to work on the routing to the holes on the other lines.
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don87401

Original Owner
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Farmington
State
NM
A bit more done. Playing with the brake pedal and old booster trying to get the pedal bent to the best position to work and not be too high. Checked to make sure I remembered right, had I moved the strut bracket to miss the booster way back when.20190725_110720.jpgresized.jpg

I did!
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A new Navajo Brake Booster with a story. At the 2011 SOA event in Quray Co. I won in the drawings a $100 off certificate on one. It had a expiration date for the end of 2011. Being I live were they are made I went down on told them I wanted one but I wanted it for my CJ6 I was building and asked if they would honor it when I was ready. I didn't know how long it would be before I would need it. Well now I am assembling I figured it was time to see what would happen. Well THEY DID, gave me the $100 off even after 9 years! I know the Offs so I really didn't think there would be an Issue. Harold and I talked a lot about Scrambler over the years and I knew the Wife and Boys.
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Have the dash back off to work the brake pedal issue so took a picture of the AC/heater work I had been doing in the back. Just got the last fitting for the AC to make it through the fire wall so when I go to put the dash back in I should have all AC parts to move forward.
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don87401

Original Owner
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Gold Member
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Spent the last few day messing with engine wiring. Got most of the harness plugged in and the ECM mounted
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Also added at couple of braces to the AC/Heater and dash. Makes it much more stable.
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The spacing worked out to be just right for using the grab bar bolts.
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Also installed the PSC big bore steering box and steering box guard. Put haven't taken pictures yet.
 

don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Put the PSC big bore box on and hooked up the hoses.

Started on installing the Painless wiring kit, ordered the one for the 80-86 era CJ.

Playing with various E Brake configurations. Thinking like the handle on the "console" idea the best but it may a Lokar handle instead of the TJ one, it is 6" shorter over all, might fit better and not be in the way as much.

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don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
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City
Farmington
State
NM
Not moving fast had to do some traveling this last weekend. But a bit of progress.

Been putting things in the dash, all Speed Hut gauges and an S-pod switch panel.
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Answered my question on which and where for the E-brake handle. It is Lokar.
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I wasn't real happy with their Billet boot it is not big enough to cover the mounting bolts for the e-brake handle if mounted to the same plate as the brake handle. I ended up using flat head bolts counter sunk into the plate to mount the handle. The ring has to sit right over the mounting bolts so if they have the head sticking up it will not work. I made it work in this case because the console plate is 1/8" but would not have worked if I was mounting to the floor. I called Lokar and complained that they sell these as working together but they don't. It may work the the transmission mounted handle but not the floor mounted.
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