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I have the same issue. I thought about a shorter pushrod but decided against it because I didn't like the idea of the pedal not resting on the mechanical stop when it was at rest. I figured that I would run it the way it is for now and deal with it later (I have yet to drive my Jeep) if it...

Same here. I ran them for years on my CJ-7 (Rubicon, Moab, etc.) with no problems. I also sold several when I ran Mesa4x4 - never had any bad feedback from customers as well. I have them on my TW shafts in my CJ-8... so, fingers crossed, if that thing ever goes anywhere under it's own power...

It's swimmable...

I'd bet this is suitable.... https://www.polyperformance.com/fox-shock-mounting-kit-803-00-221-a

Nice! What headlights are those?

If I were going to shorten it, I'd trim down the female side of the adjustment rod and, if necessary, the threaded end of the adjustment bolt (areas shown in red). This way the contact points remain "as manufactured". Black: Adjustment Bolt Grey: Lock Nut Blue: Female Side of Adjustment Rod

Not first hand experience.... But for <1/16", I'd probably go with option D. If I were to try to shorten it, I'd probably grind down what ever is keeping it from getting shorter... internal threads, external threads, or both of adjustment mechanism..

That seems to match these pics I found...

Found this: https://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/153342.pdf It says: "Torque the bolt-in center brace bolt/nut to 55 Lb. Ft. torque. Tighten the greaseable shackle bolts to 30 Lb. Ft. torque."

Disregard. ...I see the MORE only has a sleeve in the middle.

Very nice, welcome!

I have SBC 350 connected to an NV4500 with the AA bellhousing. Yes, there is a return spring connected. I fabricated a super simple mounting plate for the slave cylinder that gave me a straight line push to the clutch lever and also gave me a nice mounting point for the return spring

I love that Jeep!

Maybe this will help -It seems to show the front bow you look to be missing.... https://www.cj-8.com/threads/kayline-soft-top-installation-instructions.48449/post-396527 EDIT: I just realized it's for the half top.... but I'm wondering if the bow may be the same?

IIRC correctly (it's been a while since I had a mechanical pump)- you could remove the pump (keeping the tank side fuel line connected) and hand-actuate the lever to see if the pump works.... you should be able to get fuel out the the pump outlet (carb side).

Thanks! I searched for, and found, the thread where he posted some pics of his sending unit/pump build.

What sending unit / tank combination is that? I researched in-tank pumps set ups for a while and never came up with anything I liked enough to buy...

A couple of pics…

For the slave cylinder: > Advance Adapters Jeep Slave Cylinder Kit (PN 716331) I think I bought the kit from AA because it had the wedge I needed for my Chevy conversion lever. On the CJ-7 (T-18/Dana20), I just used the slave from the same year/model as the master. I was able to use the stock...