When doing the research I discovered the cast LS weighs less than the 258 I-6. The aluminum LS is about 100 lb under that.
I got my 5.3 from a running suburban. Bought the whole vehicle, then pulled the engine/harness/pedal/ecu/etc.. from it. The remainder was hauled off to a metal scrap yard. If you spend the time, you could probably get an engine for free by parting out the donor vehicle, but I had no desire to commit that much time to the process.
My 6.2 came from a wrecking yard and is out of an Escalade and needs an overhaul. (Benefit to the 6.2 is weight loss and the added low end torque for slow trail riding)
With a lifted vehicle, the engine is not really down low. Any added weight on the axles would help the center of gravity, the engine would probably hurt it some. But too much weight on the axles hurts the suspension as it must be controlled by the springs/shocks. It is a balancing act, and I personally feel any weight lost is good weight lost.
Gen 3 is easier to deal with, less complicated. Gen 4 you will generally need to modify it to be like a gen 3. (displacement on demand disable, variable timing, etc...)
yah gen 3 around here are pretty common got some text out to try and buy a entire vehicle like you mentioned. I didn't find a LC9 gen 4 AL block and harnesses trying to get things done so think ill try through the weekend and then jump on something next week so I can get these motor mounts set, the cage started and then the motor redone thanks
I was originally looking for a L33 or LM4, but those are just rare and when you find one the price is crazy. Got my L92 for less than half the price of a L33. That is nuts!
LM7 and L59 are dime a dozen in Texas. Mine (L59) came from a 2WD suburban, mainly because I wanted to run a NV4500 and not the 4L60e. I have heard you can easily convert a 2WD 4L60 to 4WD by swapping the output and tailhousing. You might check into that if a cheap 2WD Tahoe, truck or suburban comes along.
Sorry got stuck in the blizzard up north, so think I have decided to do the Chevy LS, man there is a lot of info out there and guys get wind o My initial thought is buy a 5.3 with 4L60 tranny and get all the wiring, ecm, foot pedals and etc, any one have suggestions on gen 3 vs 4 and AL or cast block. Since I am going up to 330-350 hp from 112 in a all cast 258 thinking the cast may be better to have a little weight that sits low
That’s what I did with a cast block. There is an awesome guy in Tomball that will either take your engine and clean it up and re-do the wiring harness or supply you a turn key set up. Either way you hear your set up run before you leave with it.
anyone pull a 5.3 on their own, trying to see exactly what all I need. I bought the truck and have it sold once I pull it but want to ensure i get whet i need. The wiring harness out uncut in the engine compartment but what about the part that goes to the rear lights and transfer case and et
thanks ag, worked on it last night till it poured rain, I got the harness out removed the radiator, tried to get the drive shafts out, loosened the hood, then ran out of time. Went and got a email novak shipped the adapter kit and motor mounts today,
Any one know a place to get a 4l60 rebuilt and the adapter shaft installed in the Austin or San Antonio area
Any one have a radiator recommendation for the 5.3. want a alum with electric fan
and on the wiring harness anyone have a recommendation on getting it modified as stand alone and the ecm flash
Don't need the ac lines. Look up LS swap a/c line adaptor. There are companies that make the bolt on o-ring to screw on fitting adaptors.
Don't think you need the trans linkage, if you are running an after market shifter, but I don't know for sure.
I grabbed as much stuff as I could and slowly threw most of it away. I think I still have boxes of stuff that will become trash.
I subscribe to the "if I think I might need it, grab it" philosophy. You can always trash something, but buying a replacement can be pricey if you don't have it.
I'm sure the bobcat helped a lot. Did mine with a engine hoist and load leveler. Could never get the thing to clear the crossmember, so I went to town on the cowl with a sawsall and an 18" blade. Took a nice 1' chunk out of the cowl, then it slid out easy.
But the suburban I bought had been T-boned so bad the passenger frame rail was bent in about 6". The passenger seat was where the center console used to be. It was a complete mess. But it still ran good and I drove it from pearland to Richmond, so I know the engine is in good shape.
sorry for the delay went to the coast a few days to try out the new boat
so I think I have everything in order going to just do a full rebuild unless this guy sells me a 5.3 with an alum block he has listed but he is being difficult. Would use the iron for my cj and the alum for the scrambler
here are a few pics of the inside thoughts on what all needs to be done for rebuild, assume block clearing, heads redone, polish crank, new bearings, may bore it .020, have to decide on cam
the rust is concerning but it was running when pulled.
Radiatorexpress.com - enter your jeep info (including original engine) and it'll give you several gm swap options. Up to you whether you want 3 or 4 row, cross flow, etc. and they also have fans and other things available. Shipping is really quick.