1982 "Vintage Red" CJ-7 Renegade
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Working on some simple fixes.
Looks like the transmission was leaking from the drain plug. I must not have tightened it back up, took about a 1/2 turn to tighten:
No leakage from the front of the transmission/bellhousing, weep hole in the adapter between T5/Dana 300 was dry:
Hoping this fixed the leak!!! I am NOT going to pressure wash the transmission/transfer case, best to let sleeping dogs lie!!!
If I have to pull them I will clean them up, but for now, best to leave them be.
Fixed the windshield frame. It was bent around the passenger side wiper pivot, probably when the wiper linkage jammed up.
Ran a 1/2" bolt through the hole, washer on the inside, spacer sleeve on the outside. Tightened the bolt up, pulled it straight by hand:
This got it mostly straight, still not "right":
You can see how it is "cocked" toward the driver side:
Installed the old/broken pivot, placed a bottle jack handle over it for leverage:
Back to straight/true:
This windshield frame was rust free around the pivot, so it was not too weakened. This WS frame only has a bit of rust on it around the cowl gasket, it could be repaired in the future vs. replaced IMO.
The wiper motor/gearbox is a little noisy. I am assuming that when the linkage bound up, bending the WS frame, it stalled the motor. It works fine, just a bit more "loud" then usual.
I took the 3 screws out that secure the cover plate to the housing:
If you want to pull the pivot arm off, you will need a small gear puller. I left it in place.
I gently pulled the plate up, shot a little bit of grease on the gear ONLY:
Really made no difference, still a bit loud.
Wiper motor and linkage reinstalled/greased, wipers fully functional in both speeds, and self park:
Note the upside down T5 shifter inserted into the winch mount, more on this in a bit!!!
Looks like the transmission was leaking from the drain plug. I must not have tightened it back up, took about a 1/2 turn to tighten:
No leakage from the front of the transmission/bellhousing, weep hole in the adapter between T5/Dana 300 was dry:
Hoping this fixed the leak!!! I am NOT going to pressure wash the transmission/transfer case, best to let sleeping dogs lie!!!
If I have to pull them I will clean them up, but for now, best to leave them be.
Fixed the windshield frame. It was bent around the passenger side wiper pivot, probably when the wiper linkage jammed up.
Ran a 1/2" bolt through the hole, washer on the inside, spacer sleeve on the outside. Tightened the bolt up, pulled it straight by hand:
This got it mostly straight, still not "right":
You can see how it is "cocked" toward the driver side:
Installed the old/broken pivot, placed a bottle jack handle over it for leverage:
Back to straight/true:
This windshield frame was rust free around the pivot, so it was not too weakened. This WS frame only has a bit of rust on it around the cowl gasket, it could be repaired in the future vs. replaced IMO.
The wiper motor/gearbox is a little noisy. I am assuming that when the linkage bound up, bending the WS frame, it stalled the motor. It works fine, just a bit more "loud" then usual.
I took the 3 screws out that secure the cover plate to the housing:
If you want to pull the pivot arm off, you will need a small gear puller. I left it in place.
I gently pulled the plate up, shot a little bit of grease on the gear ONLY:
Really made no difference, still a bit loud.
Wiper motor and linkage reinstalled/greased, wipers fully functional in both speeds, and self park:
Note the upside down T5 shifter inserted into the winch mount, more on this in a bit!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
My tale of woe and grief with T5's continue...................
Someone has messed with this shifter before, not sure why?? The floor pan was bent around the transmission cover, I straightened this out previously. The shifter assembly was missing a bolt, AND there was dent/pry mark on the floor where the center console would go. I am not sure why any of this happened, the shifter had no slop?? The other give away - the "stop nut" that goes below the shifter knob was installed upside down. I tried to remove said nut to install it "right way up", DAMN OCD!!!!, and proceeded to snap the threaded rod off flush with the top of the shifter handle. I was going to drill/tap/install a piece of threaded rod into the top of the shifter (I have successfully done this before), but decided the easier course of action would be to just swap in a new T5 shifter handle from my T5 stash. Wrong.
Another clue that this was off before, hardly any sealant around the edge. This probably contributed quite a bit to the oily mess down around the T5/Dana 300, and explained why the T5 was a quart low on fluid:
So, to pull the T5 shifter handle off the "stub", depress the two plastic nubs, pull up, done. Ha ha, ha ha, ha ha!!!
I smashed the nubs in, then destroyed them completely, the shifter handle would not budge!!!!!!!!!
I reinstalled the shifter, placed a 2x4 across the floor board, pried upward on the shifter handle with a 5' pry bar. No bueno. I was scared I was going to break the transmission mount!!!!!!!!!!!
I ended up removing the entire shifter assembly, soaking it in PB-Blaster, then beat on it with a hammer for 10 minutes. Finally got the damn thing apart!!!
Basically, when you reassemble this thing: short "stub shaft" on shifter housing, place plastic isolator over it, then metal clip, then push the shifter handle down over the top of it all, it locks into place.
MAYBE since the plastic isolator had no wear made removal such a PIA??
I actually had to use a punch and hammer, where the nubs lock into the shifter handle, for removal. I actually damaged the "square windows" with the punch!!!!!!!!!!!
You can also see all the hammer marks on the shifter in the picture above. I had to beat the dog crap out of it.
Broken shifter, replacement shifter from the stash:
Now, you may be asking: "Why didn't he just bolt on the entire shifter assembly from the parts stash?". Good question. The "shifter base" on the parts stash shift housing is super loose and sloppy. NOT the shifter handle, but the actual mechanism inside the shift tower:
The shift housing I pulled off of this transmission is super tight, no slop at all:
So, round one is over, and I will be honest and admit the damn shifter kicked my a$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Round 2, remove the shift handle from the parts stash shifter without destroying the isolator bushing!!!!!!!!!!!!! I ordered a new plastic bushing, but it won't be here for a couple of days. Hopefully I can remove the parts stash isolator without destroying it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's it for now.
Someone has messed with this shifter before, not sure why?? The floor pan was bent around the transmission cover, I straightened this out previously. The shifter assembly was missing a bolt, AND there was dent/pry mark on the floor where the center console would go. I am not sure why any of this happened, the shifter had no slop?? The other give away - the "stop nut" that goes below the shifter knob was installed upside down. I tried to remove said nut to install it "right way up", DAMN OCD!!!!, and proceeded to snap the threaded rod off flush with the top of the shifter handle. I was going to drill/tap/install a piece of threaded rod into the top of the shifter (I have successfully done this before), but decided the easier course of action would be to just swap in a new T5 shifter handle from my T5 stash. Wrong.
Another clue that this was off before, hardly any sealant around the edge. This probably contributed quite a bit to the oily mess down around the T5/Dana 300, and explained why the T5 was a quart low on fluid:
So, to pull the T5 shifter handle off the "stub", depress the two plastic nubs, pull up, done. Ha ha, ha ha, ha ha!!!
I smashed the nubs in, then destroyed them completely, the shifter handle would not budge!!!!!!!!!
I reinstalled the shifter, placed a 2x4 across the floor board, pried upward on the shifter handle with a 5' pry bar. No bueno. I was scared I was going to break the transmission mount!!!!!!!!!!!
I ended up removing the entire shifter assembly, soaking it in PB-Blaster, then beat on it with a hammer for 10 minutes. Finally got the damn thing apart!!!
Basically, when you reassemble this thing: short "stub shaft" on shifter housing, place plastic isolator over it, then metal clip, then push the shifter handle down over the top of it all, it locks into place.
MAYBE since the plastic isolator had no wear made removal such a PIA??
I actually had to use a punch and hammer, where the nubs lock into the shifter handle, for removal. I actually damaged the "square windows" with the punch!!!!!!!!!!!
You can also see all the hammer marks on the shifter in the picture above. I had to beat the dog crap out of it.
Broken shifter, replacement shifter from the stash:
Now, you may be asking: "Why didn't he just bolt on the entire shifter assembly from the parts stash?". Good question. The "shifter base" on the parts stash shift housing is super loose and sloppy. NOT the shifter handle, but the actual mechanism inside the shift tower:
The shift housing I pulled off of this transmission is super tight, no slop at all:
So, round one is over, and I will be honest and admit the damn shifter kicked my a$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Round 2, remove the shift handle from the parts stash shifter without destroying the isolator bushing!!!!!!!!!!!!! I ordered a new plastic bushing, but it won't be here for a couple of days. Hopefully I can remove the parts stash isolator without destroying it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's it for now.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Win some, lose some...
Soaked the shifter shaft in PB-Blaster for 24 hours, would not budge off the stub shaft. Preceded to beat on the shaft, at the base, with a hammer, the damn threaded portion on the other end popped off
So, I should have just drilled/tapped the original shaft, never took it off the stub shaft, would have been finished hours ago.
In keeping with the excellent AMC quality control, I center punched the original location of the threaded shaft, which was off center. I could have centered it on the shaft, but I decided to keep it original LOL!!!!!!!!!
Drilled around 3/4" in, gives me a hair over 1/2" threads, more then enough for a shift knob. Much better then the original "tack weld" that held on the original threaded portion of the shaft.
Just need to cut down the length of the 3/8" threaded rod:
I might just reuse the original plastic shim/metal retainer. The metal retainer was already missing both little "tabs", but it was so tight Sueperman couldn't pull the shifter off the stub!!!!!!!!!!
Lesson learned - don't ever mess with the stupid T5 shifter retainer stuff until it is so sloppy it pulls apart!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's it for now
Soaked the shifter shaft in PB-Blaster for 24 hours, would not budge off the stub shaft. Preceded to beat on the shaft, at the base, with a hammer, the damn threaded portion on the other end popped off
So, I should have just drilled/tapped the original shaft, never took it off the stub shaft, would have been finished hours ago.
In keeping with the excellent AMC quality control, I center punched the original location of the threaded shaft, which was off center. I could have centered it on the shaft, but I decided to keep it original LOL!!!!!!!!!
Drilled around 3/4" in, gives me a hair over 1/2" threads, more then enough for a shift knob. Much better then the original "tack weld" that held on the original threaded portion of the shaft.
Just need to cut down the length of the 3/8" threaded rod:
I might just reuse the original plastic shim/metal retainer. The metal retainer was already missing both little "tabs", but it was so tight Sueperman couldn't pull the shifter off the stub!!!!!!!!!!
Lesson learned - don't ever mess with the stupid T5 shifter retainer stuff until it is so sloppy it pulls apart!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's it for now
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Reinstalled the shifter base last night, will torque it down tonight (allowing 24 hours for RTV to cure):
I removed the boot to allow easier access to the very rear (top of picture) bolt. You can see the missing paint on the body flange for the transmission shifter. Like I said, someone has been in here before. It is all back to original shape, paint has just flaked off from re-shaping it.
Pulled it off jack stands, ready to roll again!!!
A few more easy/quick repairs tonight/tomorrow morning, then this one is heading to Baton Rouge!!!
That's it for now
I removed the boot to allow easier access to the very rear (top of picture) bolt. You can see the missing paint on the body flange for the transmission shifter. Like I said, someone has been in here before. It is all back to original shape, paint has just flaked off from re-shaping it.
Pulled it off jack stands, ready to roll again!!!
A few more easy/quick repairs tonight/tomorrow morning, then this one is heading to Baton Rouge!!!
That's it for now
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Reinstalled the shifter, snugged up the bolts holding the shifter housing to the transmission:
Had to go bring a key to one of my subcontractors, so took this one on a 30 minute drive, no problems!!
The steering wheel has not "locked" since I picked it up two months ago. Pulled the column apart, the little lock peg was stuck in its bore:
A little liquid lube, worked it in and out, broke the old gummed up grease up, works again.
Changed the turn signal switch while I was in there, it was cracked at the handle base and corroded on the wire plug end:
Reassembled the column, cleaned up the horn contactor parts on the back side of the steering wheel, everything working like it should (turn signals, horn, hazards, key and wheel lock, tilt):
The 8274 in non-operational, figured. The remote is pretty corroded, so will try to clean the remote/winch cover plug/socket. If no bueno, I should be able to jump the solenoids to at least satisfy my curiosity. Surprisingly, the solenoids and the 3 big wires/terminals on the motor are clean.
The fuel and temp gauge now both peg to full/hot as soon as the key is turned on. This happened the last time I drove the Jeep, so I pulled the hot wire off the fuel gauge to prevent frying the gauges. Hooked it back up tonight, I am getting 12 volts to the temp gauge, CVR bit the dust.
I might have a trick little fix for this, stay tuned!!!!
Had to go bring a key to one of my subcontractors, so took this one on a 30 minute drive, no problems!!
The steering wheel has not "locked" since I picked it up two months ago. Pulled the column apart, the little lock peg was stuck in its bore:
A little liquid lube, worked it in and out, broke the old gummed up grease up, works again.
Changed the turn signal switch while I was in there, it was cracked at the handle base and corroded on the wire plug end:
Reassembled the column, cleaned up the horn contactor parts on the back side of the steering wheel, everything working like it should (turn signals, horn, hazards, key and wheel lock, tilt):
The 8274 in non-operational, figured. The remote is pretty corroded, so will try to clean the remote/winch cover plug/socket. If no bueno, I should be able to jump the solenoids to at least satisfy my curiosity. Surprisingly, the solenoids and the 3 big wires/terminals on the motor are clean.
The fuel and temp gauge now both peg to full/hot as soon as the key is turned on. This happened the last time I drove the Jeep, so I pulled the hot wire off the fuel gauge to prevent frying the gauges. Hooked it back up tonight, I am getting 12 volts to the temp gauge, CVR bit the dust.
I might have a trick little fix for this, stay tuned!!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Playing with the winch and a voltmeter, figured out which post was "hot", made a jumper wire, winch works, in and out.
I could not get the remote to work. Took it apart, switch is bad.
Rigged up a temporary switch, voila, working 8274:
I could not get the remote to work. Took it apart, switch is bad.
Rigged up a temporary switch, voila, working 8274:
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
The CVR (constant voltage regulator) inside the fuel gauge broke, sending 12 volts to both gauges, which is not good. Both gauges had been functioning properly.
Found this doo-hickey on Amazon:
Basically, a voltage regulator. Power comes in at vehicle voltage, comes out 5 volts.
Red = power in (original gauge red wire)
Yellow = power out (plugged to fuel gauge)
Black = ground
Temporarily wired it up real butch, proof of concept:
Installed, gauges work again:
In the picture above, cold engine, about out of gas. I went to the gas station, put in 4 gallons, went up to between 1/4 and 1/2. So, worth a shot of your CVR goes out AND you haven't already fried both gauges.
One last thing, just because, pulled all the old/broken/crap stereo components out:
Found this doo-hickey on Amazon:
Basically, a voltage regulator. Power comes in at vehicle voltage, comes out 5 volts.
Red = power in (original gauge red wire)
Yellow = power out (plugged to fuel gauge)
Black = ground
Temporarily wired it up real butch, proof of concept:
Installed, gauges work again:
In the picture above, cold engine, about out of gas. I went to the gas station, put in 4 gallons, went up to between 1/4 and 1/2. So, worth a shot of your CVR goes out AND you haven't already fried both gauges.
One last thing, just because, pulled all the old/broken/crap stereo components out:
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Adjusted the choke gap, noticed the damn new brake master cylinder is leaking at the lid (bent the wire thing some more, no bueno), so will have to change it back out in the future.
JeepAddict and his nephew came to steal it Saturday afternoon, but not without PartMonkey putting up a fight:
And just like that, it was gone:
JeepAddict will work some magic on the paint/trim, then might keep it or sell it. I am sure I will see it again!!!! (Well, at least to swap in a new master cylinder!!!!)
It's a good solid Jeep, a good driver. All three of us drove it around some Saturday, including some 4-wheeling in my yard, a fun to drive Jeep!!!
That's it from me on this one!!!! Unsurprisingly, one project leaves, another one shows up the same day
JeepAddict and his nephew came to steal it Saturday afternoon, but not without PartMonkey putting up a fight:
And just like that, it was gone:
JeepAddict will work some magic on the paint/trim, then might keep it or sell it. I am sure I will see it again!!!! (Well, at least to swap in a new master cylinder!!!!)
It's a good solid Jeep, a good driver. All three of us drove it around some Saturday, including some 4-wheeling in my yard, a fun to drive Jeep!!!
That's it from me on this one!!!! Unsurprisingly, one project leaves, another one shows up the same day
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Parts monkey is still here, he wants to be where the action is"And just like that, it was gone:" The Jeep or the Monk?
- City
- Baton Rouge
- State
- La
Parts monkey forwarded his mail to your address before he left. Still trying to make room to get this one inside.Parts monkey is still here, he wants to be where the action is
- City
- Baton Rouge
- State
- La
Had to move this piece out the way to make room. Time for the inseclopede to find its way home!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Damn OCD!!!!!!!!!!!!!Since I already interrupted this thread, I'll finish the LJ tech clutter!!!!
A few random pictures, notes, and heartache!!!
The sump in the middle of the tank that the fuel module sits in, note how the inside of black plastic tanks is silver/grey??
View attachment 99850
The OEM fuel pump module - "cup/reservoir" at the bottom that holds fuel/pump, sending unit in the bottom, pressure regulator up top, spring loaded legs, I would assume similar to late model GM stuff??
View attachment 99852
Inside the tank, looking at the filler hole, this little jewel can cause you problems, besides just trying to siphon fuel!!!!
View attachment 99851
That white cylinder can detach from the "welded on" fuel fill neck, from inside the tank. Inside it is a ball, seal, spring. The long stick guides it inside the plastic cylinder, but the inner assembly also slides on three plastic "tracks". In the picture above, it is stuck down, probably from me jamming a siphon tube into it. It popped back up once I filled the tank. Anyway, if your TJ/LJ/JK sprays gas at you when the tank nears full while filling it, this little jewel is the problem. It will stick, causing all kinds of issues. I assume this is an emissions/safety device, keeps gas fumes from migrating up the fill hose, will keep liquid fuel from spilling out of fill hose if you roll the Jeep. On a CJ, there is a BIG fuel fill AND vent hose. On this LJ, only a fill hose. I presume this doo-hickey works with other doo-hickeys on the tank to allow the tank to vent while you are filling up. Anyway, on this LJ, no problems with this doo-hickey. If you have issues, you can remove it, lightly sand down the tracks/ridges" to get the ball assembly sliding smoothly and fix the problems. Some people swapped on a GM filler hose, but that is a band-aid fix. To fix it right, drop the tank. Since I had no issues with the little doo-hickey, I left it alone.
You can see why it is a bitch to siphon fuel out of this thing!!!! Also, not pictured, inside the "welded on" plastic filler neck there are four "L" shaped fingers blocking access. No idea what purpose they serve???
One other note - I am not a TJ/LJ "expert", but I will tell you the 2005-2006 models are nothing like the 2004 and earlier models. The 2005 and 2006 models have an advanced tank evap emissions system, more similar to a JK. There is a "pump" up in the passenger side body (behind tail light" that will pressurize the tank when the PCM commands it to. There is a pressure sensor doo-hickey in the top of the tank, that will check to ensure the tank/system maintains pressure. Basically, if it holds pressure, the PCM knows it is not leaking gas fumes. If it does not hold pressure, you get a CEL. I did not have to mess with any of this crap, BUT I was also super careful with all the associated lines/connectors I had to mess with to drop the tank. It would be a PIA to try to diagnose an evap leak, fix the problem, to clear the "Check Engine Light"!!!!!! I would presume you would have to "smoke" the system to check for leaks, but you would also have to ensure pump/sensor are working properly.
Also, I never saw a "charcoal/fume" canister anywhere, unless it is up in the passenger side cubby hole behind the taillight. A vent line runs from the tank, up under the hood, to a purge solenoid, straight to the intake manifold. MAYBE this system holds the fumes inside the tank until you start up?? Just a word of warning about all this crap, tread lightly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
New pump installed, key "primed" three times, LJ fired right up!!!!!!!!!!
I did NOT receive my Bosch fuel pump module, UPS screwed me, so I installed a Delphi unit from NAPA. This was my 2nd choice. But, I made the NAPA store manager sign the box!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
View attachment 99854
"I WILL DROP EVERYTHING AND COME HELP RAYMOND REPLACE THIS POS PUMP WHEN IT FAILS, NO IFS, ANDS OR BUTS ALLOWED OR NOTED OR IMPLIED SO HELP ME GOD.
1/18/22"
Signed by Jeremy
Witnessed by Austin
In all seriousness, the module has a life time warranty, AND after doing it once, I can repeat the entire remove/install in under 2 hours IF the tank is close to empty. Not the best, not the worst, is what it is.
Now the heartache - I get to drop the tank again, next week, once it gets close to empty!!!!!!!
I installed the lock ring like so:
View attachment 99853
This is not "correct", BUT it is locked into place, can not come loose. I installed it and removed it several times, it takes a hammer and punch to break it free. But, it is not "correct" and will drive me crazy!!!!!!!!
On my initial removal picture, you can see how it is supposed to be, basically 180 degrees out:
View attachment 99858
Should have looked at this damn picture yesterday LOL!!
So, I will drop it again next week, install the lock ring "correctly", and sleep better at night.
For now, pump works, fuel gauge is accurate, no liquid or fume leaks, no CEL. Will get it 100% next week
And, this LJ is rust free/unmolested/not damaged or modified, so it a pleasure to work on!!!!!!!!
Not the '82, but since I hijacked this thread with my LJ months ago, will finish it here!!!!!!
Dropped the tank, fully seated fuel pump lock ring, I can sleep at night again LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
And just like that it was back!!
When Tommy picked this one up everything was fine. He drove it around for a couple of weeks, no problems. Well, he parked it one night, came back the next morning to a puddle of gear oil on the floor. Turns out the T5 case had a hair line crack, that's why it leaked at my house slightly one night. Tommy cleaned the crack out and JB welded it shut, which fixed the leak, but not ideal:
So, my good buddy found another T5, plan is to swap the current guts of Vintage Red's T5 into another case:
Looks familiar LOL!!!
Unfortunately, this case is no good. On my T5 posts I always preached about making sure the threaded holes are cleaned out thoroughly. Any old RTV/sealant/gunk in the threads is bad. Well, here is what happens if you don't clean out the holes and tighten up the bolts:
Yep, the gunk has nowhere to go and will blow the sides out of the thin wall cast aluminum case. It's a shame because this case was fine otherwise. All the bearing bores are tight, metal between the two front bearing bores is crack free. Someone also busted a hole in the rear section of the case:
Tommy got this T5 for free, so not the end of the world. Case is no good, BUT the input shaft, counter shaft, and the main shaft/top gears all look fine, just dirty:
My plan was to get all this T5 swap/rebuild complete this weekend. Unfortunately it looks like I will be hunting for a case. I need to look in my garage, I just remembered I might have a spare. Going to hit up a local shop to see if they have a case. I ordered a NOS case from Ohio last night but it will be a few days before it shows up.
I thought National was two weekends away, but it is next weekend. No big deal my Red Scrambler is ready to go. Fingers crossed I can get Vintage Red back on the road before National.
That's it for now
When Tommy picked this one up everything was fine. He drove it around for a couple of weeks, no problems. Well, he parked it one night, came back the next morning to a puddle of gear oil on the floor. Turns out the T5 case had a hair line crack, that's why it leaked at my house slightly one night. Tommy cleaned the crack out and JB welded it shut, which fixed the leak, but not ideal:
So, my good buddy found another T5, plan is to swap the current guts of Vintage Red's T5 into another case:
Looks familiar LOL!!!
Unfortunately, this case is no good. On my T5 posts I always preached about making sure the threaded holes are cleaned out thoroughly. Any old RTV/sealant/gunk in the threads is bad. Well, here is what happens if you don't clean out the holes and tighten up the bolts:
Yep, the gunk has nowhere to go and will blow the sides out of the thin wall cast aluminum case. It's a shame because this case was fine otherwise. All the bearing bores are tight, metal between the two front bearing bores is crack free. Someone also busted a hole in the rear section of the case:
Tommy got this T5 for free, so not the end of the world. Case is no good, BUT the input shaft, counter shaft, and the main shaft/top gears all look fine, just dirty:
My plan was to get all this T5 swap/rebuild complete this weekend. Unfortunately it looks like I will be hunting for a case. I need to look in my garage, I just remembered I might have a spare. Going to hit up a local shop to see if they have a case. I ordered a NOS case from Ohio last night but it will be a few days before it shows up.
I thought National was two weekends away, but it is next weekend. No big deal my Red Scrambler is ready to go. Fingers crossed I can get Vintage Red back on the road before National.
That's it for now
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
It can happen to any case, little easier on a T5 due to thin wall thickness. When you have 1/2"-3/4" thread engagement in a blind hole full of crap, crap gotta go somewhere when you tighten the bolt - either blow the case out , strip the threads, force has to somewhere. But yep, thin wall case for sure
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
The local shop did not have any old T5's, but I had two cases in my parts stash that I forgot about:
The first case I inspected had the same issue as the Tommy free case:
I am not going to use this case on someone else's Jeep, I might keep it as a spare, explore some repair possibilities. This is the only damage this case has, no cracks, bearing bores are tight. IF the only damage is this one spalled out top cover threaded hole it is worth hanging on to. I will thoroughly clean and inspect this case later.
Case number 2 had a minor issue. A previous owner installed SAE Helicoils in two of the front bearing retainer threaded holes. These threaded holes should be 8mmx1.25. I drilled out the two incorrect Helicoils and installed two correct metric inserts:
This picture will show just how thin portions of the T5 case front wall are, the Helicoil is twice as thick as the case in this one area!!!
The Helicoils are a suitable repair for ruined threads in cast aluminum. The threads they provide are stronger then the original threads. My green Scrambler has a Helicoil in one of these holes so no concerns.
Another hour or so of case cleaning/inspecting then I can get to work removing the current transmission. Long day ahead............
The first case I inspected had the same issue as the Tommy free case:
I am not going to use this case on someone else's Jeep, I might keep it as a spare, explore some repair possibilities. This is the only damage this case has, no cracks, bearing bores are tight. IF the only damage is this one spalled out top cover threaded hole it is worth hanging on to. I will thoroughly clean and inspect this case later.
Case number 2 had a minor issue. A previous owner installed SAE Helicoils in two of the front bearing retainer threaded holes. These threaded holes should be 8mmx1.25. I drilled out the two incorrect Helicoils and installed two correct metric inserts:
This picture will show just how thin portions of the T5 case front wall are, the Helicoil is twice as thick as the case in this one area!!!
The Helicoils are a suitable repair for ruined threads in cast aluminum. The threads they provide are stronger then the original threads. My green Scrambler has a Helicoil in one of these holes so no concerns.
Another hour or so of case cleaning/inspecting then I can get to work removing the current transmission. Long day ahead............
