82 Scrambler - rebuild

City
Willis
State
Tx
#1
This is actually the 2nd time for me to rebuild this Jeep. I did a frame on restoration in 2002. That one included rebuilt engine, T-5 trans and T-case, new painless harness, new OEM gauges, upgraded steering gear, upgrades brake booster, used Acme full hard top, full bed lined interior, one piece axle upgrade in the AMC 20, SOA lift and new 3.73 gear with limited slip in rear and a basic paint job.

This time I’m doing a frame off, blasting and bed lining the underside of the tub, blasting and coating the frame, replacing all brake and fuel lines, new Xtreme Hardtop, LS/4L60 swap, truss the AMC 20, add traction bar and get a top quality paint job including factory style decals and pin stripes.

The new Xtrem hard top is on hand and the first real progress has been made with new bumpers and tire carrier being completed.

The bumper parts you likely don’t recognize are the receptacles for the Blue Ox two bar I will use to flat tow the Jeep behind a motor home.
 

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OGRES

Legacy Registered User
LIFETIME
City
Carrollton
State
GA
#3
I like it.

One question I had for you though, with all of the other upgrades, why not upgrade the rear axle to a Dana 44 from the 20?
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#4
I have a Ford 9” I had planned to narrow for this but after some reading I found that the only 2 weak links in the 20 are the 2 piece axles which are already upgraded and the tube strength which can be helped with a truss. The 20 is already geared to it will be a considerable cost savings.

If I grenade it I will still have the 9” on stand by 😉
 

OGRES

Legacy Registered User
LIFETIME
City
Carrollton
State
GA
#5
I have a Ford 9” I had planned to narrow for this but after some reading I found that the only 2 weak links in the 20 are the 2 piece axles which are already upgraded and the tube strength which can be helped with a truss. The 20 is already geared to it will be a considerable cost savings.

If I grenade it I will still have the 9” on stand by 😉
10-4

That makes sense. You will definitely need to post up pictures of the trussing on the axle for us all to see.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#8
Tried the new tow bar arrangement today, now you can see the purpose of the receptacles made into the bumper.
Met with paint and body guy and went over everything and devised a plan.


Tear down starts tomorrow. 97E10764-1CE9-44A1-B675-4CCF4259857F.jpeg
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#10
Looking forward to seeing some pictures
Kind of crazy, I have access to CNC Plasma and Laser cutting equipment along with shears and brakes but for the price of the Searchers I couldn’t see taking the time to mesure, mock up and draw it all out on my own.
 

Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
#11
Kind of crazy, I have access to CNC Plasma and Laser cutting equipment along with shears and brakes but for the price of the Searchers I couldn’t see taking the time to mesure, mock up and draw it all out on my own.
I have been looking at that one for a few years now.. They are just up the road about an hour away.
 

don87401

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Farmington
State
NM
#12
It apears in the picture your tow bar is pointing down when hooked up. That is not good. Can't tell if it is on hitch or bumper, but the ball needs to taller/higher. In a hard stop the jeep would tend to ride up over the bar.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#13
It apears in the picture your tow bar is pointing down when hooked up. That is not good. Can't tell if it is on hitch or bumper, but the ball needs to taller/higher. In a hard stop the jeep would tend to ride up over the bar.
Agreed. I was pulling the Jeep to my paint and body man with my shop truck which he also needed to see. Nothing else I have has the hitch that low. I will make sure tow bar is level for towing.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#14
Hope I remember where all this goes when it’s time to put it back....

Have to remove windshield frame, hood and body mount bolts and the body will be ready to come off for blast and Custom Coat bedliner application to under body and POR15 +paint to frame.
 

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ag4ever

Basic User
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
#15
It apears in the picture your tow bar is pointing down when hooked up. That is not good. Can't tell if it is on hitch or bumper, but the ball needs to taller/higher. In a hard stop the jeep would tend to ride up over the bar.
When towing behind a lighter tow vehicle it really needs to be as close to flat as possible. If there is too much angle up towards the tow vehicle the weight transfer can lighten the rear of the tow vehicle. It is not fun when you hit the brakes and the jeep wants to push the back of your truck around the front of your truck.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#16
When towing behind a lighter tow vehicle it really needs to be as close to flat as possible. If there is too much angle up towards the tow vehicle the weight transfer can lighten the rear of the tow vehicle. It is not fun when you hit the brakes and the jeep wants to push the back of your truck around the front of your truck.
All true. This was a short trip behind a Dodge 2500. The main tow rigs for this Jeep will be my F-350 which is lifted and will creat a level tow bar and a Motor Coach that weighs north of 35K, I don’t think the Jeep will push either one around much.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#17
Well my goal for the weekend was to get to mock up the new engine but due to some unexpected interruptions I had to settle for just getting the old power plant out.

A bonus is that the under body and frame are in even better shape than I thought. The frame still has its original paint in great condition except for under the body mounts and a small section under the master cylinder where brake fluid had spilled and caused some surface rust. Due to this I’m considering skipping all the sand blasting I had planned and allow me to just spot treat and then re-coat.

Since these bodies are known to collapse at the door opening sometimes when the body doesn’t have frame support so I made these braces to prevent that.
40184-902d71e41d0685c987b5d9941bb9e87f.jpg

Rolled it out to lift the body off and pressure wash the heck out of everything.
40185-44360f45bef8abc6447876be2b91bbb4.jpg 40186-2b56a86bf7e121cebfd20c5759439e87.jpg

Rolled her back in and got the engine/trans pulled. It’s sitting across the frame so I can pull the T-case and then it can go away! 40187-3c4e8775cfb76db49daf57ece07f26e8.jpg
 

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City
Willis
State
Tx
#20
I’m at a crossroad and needing ideas / advice.

After years of flat towing CJ’s I just learned that the Dana 300 is not suited to flat towing due to lack of lubrication of the rear output bearing when T-case is in neutral.

Some research led me to Tri-county Gear in CA who used to do a old that welded slingers inside the case to spay lube on the output bearing. Well I called today and he actually suggest a 12v auxiliary oil pump powered by the tow vehicle to provide lube. This mod with parts is about $1000.

Are there other mod options or a better T-case alternative that would be better for a CJ that is flat towed often and at freeway speeds?
 
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