82 Scrambler - rebuild

CJ7Pilot

18436572
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Yuba City
State
CA
#23
If you can find a Warn full-floating axle kit (tough to find, but not impossible), then you'll have locking hubs in the rear, and you can just un-lock them for towing.

Another option is to un-bolt the driveshaft at the differential, and tie it up out of the way when you're towing... but that's kind of a pain in the A....
 

CJ7Pilot

18436572
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Yuba City
State
CA
#24
Also, if you've been towing like that for years, and never had a problem... then maybe it isn't much of a problem. :shrug:

I've also read (but have no direct experience), that on a long tow, you should pull over every hour or so, start the Jeep's engine, put it in gear (leaving the t-case in neutral), and let it run for a minute or two.

This apparently splashes enough oil around to lube the bearings for the next hour or so of towing.

Good luck! :cheers:
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
#26
↑↑↑ This is what I do when flat towing.

I have not looked into it, but there might be a way to add an oil slinger to the rear output of the D300 so it can self lubricate while being driven, but stopping every 200 miles is not that bad of an idea, just to get out and stretch.

I have a ways to go before I am ready to think about axles for mine, but this is the direction I am leaning:

Full Float D44 with HUB disconnects.

TerraFlex has hub kits for the front JK axle, not sure if they could be retrofitted to a rear axle.

There was full float kit for sale here for the AMC20, but Raymond snatched it up fast. My only concern with that kit is replacement parts if it does fail. You will be left looking for a needle in a haystack. But if using a newer setup like one for a JK you should be able to find replacement parts for some time to come.
 

Ron84cj

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
West Bend
State
WI
#32
Just a side note. I noticed that you are going to run AC. The AC tensioner hangs really low and if you don't have a lot of lift, the differential will smack right into it. I have a 2.5 inch suspension lift and I had to lower the center bump stop AND add shims to the motor mounts to raise the engine up for clearance. When I say the center bump stop I'm referring to the one that is contacts the diff, not the two frame mounts that contact the tubes. I hope this makes sense. I can take pics of mine if you need.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#33
Just a side note. I noticed that you are going to run AC. The AC tensioner hangs really low and if you don't have a lot of lift, the differential will smack right into it. I have a 2.5 inch suspension lift and I had to lower the center bump stop AND add shims to the motor mounts to raise the engine up for clearance. When I say the center bump stop I'm referring to the one that is contacts the diff, not the two frame mounts that contact the tubes. I hope this makes sense. I can take pics of mine if you need.
I appreciate the input and will watch it. When I had the engine mocked up oil pan and AC seemed to have lots of clearance. Maybe my SOA lift helps with this.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#34
I have been in bit of a tiz trying to figure out what to do about my T-case, while the trans was in the shop getting the D-300 adapter installed I learned that the D-300 is not suitable for extended flat towing, long story short I decided to go with an NP241D and a clocking ring so while I wait on that to arrive I went ahead with the install of the MORE Frame plates. I don’t think I need them given condition of my frame but the return policy sucks and since there are less expensive alternatives on this site resale sucked as well.

The other expensive change was my thought of running my AMC 20 with 3.73’s for a while, a little time studying charts showed that I needed a much deeper gear so the Ford 9” is getting drug up from the pasture for a shortening, new axles and a new center chunk sporting 4.56’s most likely.

I’m also back to the plan of abrasive blasting the frame for a good paint job.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
City
Willis
State
Tx
#36
Where did you source your NP241?
well........that is still in process. I found one that already has the SYE installed but it is set up for electronic speedo. I have found a couple other units that are stock and see that JB Conversions appears to make a SYE that works with my mechanical speedo but I can't get them to answer the phone or respond to emails to confirm this for me.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#37
Well JB returned my call. They make a SYE with mech speedo connection for drivers side output but not for passenger side out....

So I’m on the hunt for a needle in a haystack it seems!
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#39
Not a cheap solution, but...

SpeedHut Electric to Mechanical

Or just replace with the speedhut gauges, they are on sale to the end of the month.
Well crap! I searched just for such a thing and only found units that did the opposite (mechanical to electric) and I saw this exactly 2 minutes after paying way too much on an NP241C with mechanical speedo and still have to buy the SYE!!!

Seems I remember Dennis (ZR10054) often saying “it’s only money”a time or three while building Stump Jumper!
 
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