82 Scrambler - rebuild

City
Willis
State
Tx
#41
I assume the 241C is passenger drop? They came in both drops. What SYE are you getting?
Yes passenger drop mechanical speedo.

Seems JB gets the best reviews for product but worst reviews for customer service. He returned my call the same day so??

What does your research say?
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#42
JB makes a great product, but doesn't seem to answer the phone or email. However, if you call and leave a message he will call you back every time. The product was top notch as well, I'm happy I went this direction.

I think I used the 1205 kit when I did mine. 89 241C with a mechanical speedo. As long as you have good snap ring pliers the 241 is actually fun to work on. The most challenging part for me was putting the case halves together while making sure the oil pump and tube stayed in place. I have some info on my build thread covering some of the bits related to this. I used a 1310 non cv yoke output on the front.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#43
JB makes a great product, but doesn't seem to answer the phone or email. However, if you call and leave a message he will call you back every time. The product was top notch as well, I'm happy I went this direction.

I think I used the 1205 kit when I did mine. 89 241C with a mechanical speedo. As long as you have good snap ring pliers the 241 is actually fun to work on. The most challenging part for me was putting the case halves together while making sure the oil pump and tube stayed in place. I have some info on my build thread covering some of the bits related to this. I used a 1310 non cv yoke output on the front.
I have to call them back. He suggested the 1205 kit but his website clearly states that the 1205 is for electronic speedo and provides a link to the 1204 for a cable driven speedo.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
#45
The 1205 kit retains the factory output housing with no change to the speedo output. I read a thread on a chevy forum where someone changed a mechanical speedo to electric. I think the housings are actually the same.

I had the same question for him as you, since the link for a mechanical speedometer takes you to the 1204 kit. I checked my notes... I bought the 1205 kit and it was $368.49 shipped.

I did the 1310 CV in combination with a tom woods 24.5" driveshaft. I am not making big power (TBI 4.3) so the other options aren't necessary. A CV style shaft will yield more pinion clearance as you have to shim the pinion to point directly at the tcase output. He does have 1310 non CV yokes for the rear output if you would like. They weren't listed on the website when I bought mine. Depending on the 241... if you have a short front output you can convert that to 1310, 1330 or 1350 non CV rather than using the 1330 flange.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#46
So, I have now gone from the D300 to a 241C and since I’m regeading my 9” is going in the rear and I’m shopping for a good front replacement. I have found a decent deal on a Dana 44 in either high pinion or low. With factory springs and SOA I think I’m good with either one but want advise.
 

barrys

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
East Norriton
State
PA
#47
I don't think you can go wrong with a hp44 up front if it will physically fit.
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#48
I don't think you can go wrong with a hp44 up front if it will physically fit.
And that’s the question. HP is the stronger option but can creat clearance issues with the driveshaft.

Will my SOA + NP241 create enough clearance to make it work or should I stick with LP?
 
City
Willis
State
Tx
#49
Well I built a really nice trans mount, until I installed the T-case and realized that my nice mount completely blocked the front driveshaft.... back to the drawing board.

In the midst of that I am told by people much more knowledgeable than I that I will run into low range shift problems unless I find a way to connect my speed sensor to the transmission instead of the transfer case. Advanced Adapters agrees with this and just happens to make the required adapter. More $$$

Meanwhile my 9” rearend and D44 front should both be completely narrowed and rebuilt by next week so I can finally start putting on new parts!
 
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