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'93 4.0L Swap into '84 Scrambler

dubs1856

dubs1856

Legacy Registered User
City
San Marcos
State
Ca
Ok.... I'm starting a new thread for this as i am officially throwing in the towel on my 4.2L. Not knowing the complete history of the my 258 and with it having water in the crank case oil and having sat for five years I decided I would be better off taking a gamble on a used 4.0 HO with fuel injection and set forth on a swap. I found a 4.0 out of a '93 Cherokee that had a manual ax15 tranny. The engine is fairly complete with wiring harness and computer. It is, however, missing the flywheel. I am looking to bolt this up to my T-5 transmission. I have read that the bell housing should bolt up just fine to the 4.0 but I may need a crank position sensor??? I also read that there may be a way to use the flywheel off of my 258 if i keep the starter from the 258 and that I might not need the CPS if I use the older distributor from my 258 as well. If any of you have been through this already I would appreciate any input you have to offer. I am trying to build a nice reliable family fun ride on a fairly tight budget at the moment and If there is a way to use any of the parts that I already have that would be awsome.


Not a great pic but here is the new 4.0

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If you don't hear from anyone here after a couple of days - try posting the question on Jeepforum. I know zip about it.

It's a really good idea, especially since you're in Cali, just remember to pull off every bit of engine you can to be compliant. My mother's got a Cherokee with FI back in upstate NY and I've made her promise not to junk it before I can pick it.
 
I am almost done with this swap. I should be after 2.5 years but my job, Navy, has kept me busy.

I used my T5 transmission and bell housing mounting was not an issue.

The CPS I bought from Hesco. It replaces the harmonic balancer on the front and plugs right into the correct wire. I did not have to extend it.

The wiring harness is what took me the longest to figure out. I finally had enough and sent it to HOTWIRE AUTO. They had it done in three weeks with a little mix up at first but they fixed it. The harness looks great a little expensive but worth it. There are many sites that will help you figure out the harness. Just remember that you need to Ground the Neutral Safety Switch to be able to start it. I missed that for a few days.

Everything else mounts right up.

If I would have sent the wiring harness off at the beginning I would be driving it. Well when I get home I would be. All that is left is Exhaust and intake then I should be good.

Hope this helps.

Sean
 
Splogue,

Is your harness an OBDI or OBDII. I was under the impression that Hot Wire only did the OBDII harness. If you were doing a OBDI then you can get the whole harness from Hesco for about the same price or less.

You should have said something. I have a couple of the 4.0's up here and would have been willing to work it out with you. Good to hear that you are close to having it back on the road though.

For the original poster though there are several places that can help with getting the engine in the Jeep and ready to go. Do a search on "5 wire to fire" and the Jeep 4.0l engine and you will get what you need. There is a lot of info out there on how to prune down the harness to make it blend with the CJ one.

Carl
 
I must have miss that at Hesco. The wiring harness is cheaper by a few coins. I do not think they had as much when I was looking for parts a year ago.

They also have complete kits now for $1725.00 sound a little high at first but when you start to think about it is not that bad if you buy nothing but the engine. Complete swap for 2Gs not bad.

Dubs,

If you have not figured out the harness by the time I get home I will pin out the one I had made. I am planning on doing this anyway you will just push it up the priority. I am hoping to be back stateside Mid July.

Sean
 
I've pulled my 4.2 out and have been gathering up the miscellaneous parts that were missing on the 4.0 spending time picking them from the local junk yards and napa. I am down to figuring out how I want to do my fuel pump and the CPS. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and send my bellhousing out to Novak to have them mill and mount my cps so I won't risk myself botching the install and having that affect wether the motor will run or not for me (headache insurance). I think I'm leaning toward the E2000 route for the fuel pump and just going external instead of internal tank pump. I was hoping to get the motor in this weekend but I think it may be easier to wait until I get the bellhousing back so I can mount up the tranny to the block and install as one piece into the jeep. I will make sure I take some pictures. I guess I need to grab a throttle cable from the J/Y this weekend as well.
 
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What to do with Pulse Air system???

I have a tube coming up to the engine compartment from my catalytic converter that I believe is part of the pulse air system. What have others done with this? Can it be removed? Is there a way to use it with the 4.0L? I will be trying to smog this vehicle in California and it will need to pass the referee. Can I just cut the tube off and weld some sort of a cap on it or will the referee not like to see that? Any help would be much appreciated.

For a quick update... I have pretty much everything together now for my swap. I am waiting on getting my bellhousing back from Novak from having it machined for the CPS for my T-5. Once I have that back I will bolt it and the tranny up to the motor and drop it in. Then mount my fuel pump and figure out how to use the factory xj fuel lines I picked up and splice in my 5 wires to fire. I'm getting close and I am very excited!!!
 
That is a pulse tube. There should be two. Cut them off near the converter. You can simply crimp then closed or crimp and wire weld the edge.
 
Ok... Just got my bellhousing for the T-5 back today from Novak in Utah. Now I'm ready to bolt up the tranny to the motor and drop it in all in one package. Here are a couple of pics of the machine work that Novak did for the sensor.


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Ken

'84 Scrambler
 
Workmanship looks good from Novak. You may have already noticed, from the picture it looks like the screws are short and not engaged in the nyloc nut. Would not want to see them come loose.
 
yes. They are not tightened down. I need to replace the sensor with another one I picked up at the junk yard. When I went to ship the sensor I had the wire lead broke off at the sensor. I should be able to use the one without the wire to mock up the other one I grabbed to mount up to the bellhousing. Thank you for pointing that out cause I never know what I may overlook now a days.


now to figure out where to mount my E2000 Fuel pump and route the XJ stainless steel fuel lines that I grabbed from the junk yard.



Ken

'84 Scrambler
San Marcos, CA
 
I also found when mounting it up that the sensor was installed backwards when they shipped it back. Probably because they knew I had to replace the sensor with one that the wires didn't break off of.
 
Dubs,

i'm getting ready to do nearly this exact swap (94 YJ 4.0 into 83 CJ8) so I'm following along on your thread. I''m in the midst of a frame-off resto (see thread in "complete builds and restorations" forum), and getting ready to start "plumbing" the frame before I mount the drivetrain.

Have you figured out which route you're going to take on your fuel lines (ie: up the PS frame rail and then cross over the front or are you going up the DS rail?) Where are you mounting the external fuel pump? Rear x-member? When I did a Howell TBI conversion on my CJ7 I mounted the inline pump above the transmission X-member along the frame rail, which was good for protection, but kind of noisy (you could hear it whining at idle speeds)...

good luck with it.. would love to see more pics as you go!
 
I pulled the stock fuel lines from a cherokee from the junk yard and I'm thinking I will use those and run them up the drivers side somehow. Not sure yet where my pump will end up but I will try to find the best compromise between close to the tank and low but still protected. I did manage to get my tranny mounted up to the motor last night and got the motor in. I left my point and shoot at home but here are a couple of pics from my cell. Bushmaster... i just made you a version of my cheat sheet for the "5 wire to fire" that I made to help me figure mine out. I replaced the '93XJ pinout with one for a '94 YJ that I found online. If the jpeg doesn't do it for you let me know and I can email you the pdf of it. Hope that this helps.

Ken

'84 Scrambler
San Marcos, CA

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Bushmaster... I just noticed that you have an '83. The CJ pinout that I have on that sheet is for '84 - '86 and I'm not having luck locating the pinout online for the '83. I'm not sure if they are the same or not. I'll let you know if I run across a pinout for an '83 somewhere.

Ken

'84 Scrambler
San Marcos, CA
 
Ken,

I like it.. I'm at least a few weeks away from this stage, but I'll definitely use yours as a start point.. I have a digital FSM for an 82 (suppossedly the 83 is just an addendum to the 82 FSM)...

thanks for posting this.. I'll continue to follow your progress... and I noticed you've got an adequate supply of draft beer in the background next to the tool chest :)
 
Made a little more progress this weekend with sorting things out. I got my power steering pump and hoses hooked up I had to use one cj hose and one of the xj hoses to make it work. The XJ hose needed a little tweaking to reach and clear the radiator. I bolted my drive shafts up and got both of the shifters mounted again. I installed the grille, the air conditioning parts and the radiator with the cj hoses. I stared at my wiring a bunch trying to figure out where I want to mount the fuse block and the ECU and what plugs won't be used. Here are a couple of better pics of the motor going in.



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I'm hoping to make some progress on running the fuel lines, hooking up the fuel pump and filter, splicing my harnesses and I still need to figure out the best way to shorten the xj accelerator cable to work in the CJ and come up with a solution for the intake as there is no room for the xj box on the drivers side due to the xj power steering pump reservoir.


Ken

'84 Scrambler
San Marcos, CA
 
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She's Purring now... well more of a growl

I finished routing my fuel lines and mounting the pump and filter and spliced the (only four) wires for my harnesses because of the manual transmission and crossed my fingers and turned the key with my fire extinguisher next to me hehehehe and she fired after a couple of cranks. I did first crank the motor over with the coil wire disconnected to lube the motor and get the oil pushed around in there before she fired. I did have a couple of issues at first, one I started smelling fuel and shut her down to see that I was leaking fuel out of the fuel rail where the fuel pressure regulator mounts up. I pulled it out to find that the o rings were dried and the large one had a little kink in it. A quick (but not cheap, $86 for that little part) trip to Napa solved that problem and I figured it was good to replace the whole regulator cause I could see where the diaphragm inside was failing. Second issue was where the motor would fire and idle just fine for about 8 to 10 seconds and then would grumble to a stall. My good friend who is also a highschool autoshop teacher suggested that it sounded like starving for fuel and to check the power feed to my pump with a test light while starting and running the motor. Low and behold I turn the key to the on position and the light comes on my tester and I hear the pump prime, turn key to start and run and the light stays off. After engine quits I turn key off and I see the test light come back on and hear the fuel pump do a short prime. I fixed the problem by connecting my fuel pump lead to the other green wire with white tracer in the harness that was paired up in the same pin in the bulkhead for the xj. I hooked up the tester and turned the key. I had prime at first and the light came on and stayed on while the motor was running :) Problem solved and I was super relieved cause I wasn't sure if it was a bad sensor or something else I would have to spend a week chasing. Now I'm down to cleaning up the harness and connecting my header pipe to the cat and muffler pipe from the 258. Here are some pictures showing the fuel pump, filter and lines and some shots of where I mounted the fuse box and computer for the 4.0. I spent way more time researching this swap then it actually took to do it. Don't be afraid of this one if you are thinking of a swap.


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Fuel pump mounted to passenger side frame rail in front of fuel tank. I routed the fuel supply line out the passenger side next to the other vent hose to keep the pump as close as possible to the tank. I used the old coil mount bracket from the 258 to mount the fuel pump here and it is bolted into the frame using the existing bolt and captive nut from the stock fuel supply line clip



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Green wire is +12volts for fuel pump. I will be re-routing it down the passenger side now that I know the motor runs


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On the right is the fuel supply line coming from the fuel filter over to the XJ's stainless fuel supply line that I had to bend a little. It is all XJ fuel lines from this point forward to the fuel rail. The line going to the left of the picture to the tank is the fuel return line from the XJ coming from the fuel rail thru the XJ stainless fuel return line. I used the CJ's vent line up to the stock vapor canister for now.


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This is a pic of my VSS with mechanical pass thru from a early 90's Dodge Dakota

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The two bolts in the center of the pic on the vertical surface show where I bolted thru to attach my fuel filter kind of behind the passenger seat center of cab

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Here is the new fuel pressure regulator installed and no more leak!!!

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Ken
'84 Scrambler
San Marcos
 
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