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Belizeit's 1984 CJ-7 Engine Swap/Upgrade

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Used this stuff to seal the dipstick tube to the engine block.

20220911_102055.jpg

Used an open end wrench around the tube, tapped the wrench with a hammer, tube installed easily, but tight.

20220911_103351.jpg

The solenoid was labeled opposite of how all of mine are installed????

20220911_104132.jpg

Installed it, will research the wire stuff later.

20220911_105353.jpg

Fun stuff, removing all of the 4 cylinder feed back wiring, doo-hickeys, ECU, choke cable, vacuum lines, etc.

20220911_115005.jpg

Besides the big wire connector on the ECU, these two wire leave the ECU and go to the dash mounted "shift light" on the AMC 4 cylinder engines.

20220911_115013.jpg

Most of these wire will be reused - charging system, starting system, maybe some of the ignition/ignition coil wires.

20220911_115038.jpg

A few "Andy Added" wires, one says horn, I think the rest go to an aftermarket tach, I'll trace them down.

20220911_115059.jpg

Might reuse these original ignition control module wires, too.

20220911_115112.jpg

Much cleaner engine bay.

20220911_115123.jpg

Will clean/re-loom the OEM wiring, OCD and 238,000 miles of crud are bugging me.

A bit more disassembly/cleaning up work to do, but should be able to start working on the ignition/fuel injection/wiring stuff soon.

That's it for now!!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Quick notes on the driveshafts.

This is a 1984 CJ7, originally an AMC 2.5/T4. Andy added the Rancho 2" lift, OEM drive shafts worked fine for him.

According to the factory parts book, and Quadratec, an AMC 2.5/T4 uses the same driveshafts as a 258/T176.

20220911_173752.jpg

Now, this Jeep has a 2.5" lift so the driveshafts will not be working at the "optimum" lengths, but seems OK to me.

Notes on the rear. The circled information is correct, I made wrong measurements earlier.

20220911_173813.jpg

And the front:

20220911_173821.jpg

The front is a little better, I am sure the weight of the engine helps compress the stiff springs up front, the rear really does not have any real weight on it. I will have to measure, but pretty sure the rear sits a little higher then the rear.

These shafts worked fine before, should work fine again. I am going to use the OEM shafts. I would do the same if it was mine. Some new u-joints and some paint, good as new.

Now, if some softer springs, or different lift, was ever installed, I might revisit the driveshaft issue.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Finished up all the under hood demolition last night:

20220913_182602.jpg

I need to clean up and rework this original T4 reverse light/4wd indicator light harness or find the "correct" T176 harness. If I reuse this harness I can remove the circuit that deals with the dash mounted "Up Shift" light:

20220913_182620.jpg

Swung the under hood harness over the driver side front fender to make it easy to work on/clean up:

20220913_182650.jpg

Going to clean the wires and re-loom, the passenger side portion from the firewall out to the alternator is soaked in 238,000 miles of oil and crud:

20220913_182659.jpg

The only "owner added" wires, one for a horn and the rest to the aftermarket tach:

20220913_182714.jpg

Removing the wire loom and cleaning/inspecting wires:

20220913_184838.jpg

20220913_184851.jpg

Most of the wiring is in great shape, I just found one odd butt connector splice on a green wire coming out of the firewall. IIRC, the Sniper only needs one OEM wire connection (HOT on Start AND Run), should be easy enough to find.

Finished with "demolition", should be able to start installing the Sniper/Distributor/Coil/ICM/Wiring/Fuel Lines/Exhaust soon:

20220913_190936.jpg

That's it for now!!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Worked on this one some today. A few easy tasks completed.

Installed new sway bar bushings:

20220917_095200.jpg

Installed a better drain valve in the radiator to replace the crappy plastic drain plug:

20220917_095653.jpg

Andy installed (I believe??) a Novak hydraulic clutch kit. He installed the slave cylinder, so I need to install the clutch master cylinder and the hydraulic line.

20220917_100636.jpg

Master cylinder is easy enough to bolt into place:

20220917_101855.jpg

The hydraulic line will NOT install without some modifications, unless I am missing something really obvious?? No way it will clear the firewall or grill strut rod mounting bracket.

20220917_101020.jpg

I will need to do some more research/ass scratching/Google/print out the instructions on the hydraulic line issue.

Installed the battery, battery cables, and starter cable:

20220917_105937.jpg

Installed the correct power steering belt, but I still have a problem. The PS reservoir sits cocked too far over, even with the pump adjusted all the way up/tight.

A quick comparison shows that there is a difference between a 258/150 pump, besides the obvious reservoir/return line fitting.

On the 4 cylinder pump, note where the upper threaded stud is located on the can, almost inline with the fill cap:

20220917_112501.jpg

On a 258 PS pump note that the threaded stud is located closer to the nine-o'clock position:

20220917_112430.jpg

I ordered the correct pump/reservoir combo from NAPA, it will be here in a couple of days. I had to get a pump with the right reservoir since the 4 cylinder reservoir will not work on a 6 cylinder pump.

Pulled the pulley and studs off, just waiting on parts now:

20220917_142424.jpg

Dug out some needed parts out of my stash: a non power brake air cleaner assembly and the throttle cable bracket:

20220917_113922.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Andy was using a MSD 6AL ICM and MSD coil with the original four cylinder engine. I am going to reuse these components on the new 258. Cleaned up the ICM/coil/wiring:

20220917_150948.jpg

Love the wiring diagram attached to the bottom of 6AL!!!!

20220917_151007.jpg

Installed the ICM/coil, one issue where my finger is pointing at:

20220917_152615.jpg

These two wire "loops" come connected from MSD:

20220917_152620.jpg

Since Andy originally installed this set up on a four cylinder engine he cut both loops as instructed. Since it is now going to be used on a six cylinder engine I will either need to repair one loop or buy a replacement harness:

20220917_152913.jpg

Went ahead a labeled the MSD ignition wiring:

20220917_152634.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Waiting on parts before I can finish up numerous "meat and potato" tasks on the engine, so decided to start installing the Holley Sniper throttle body.

The intake manifold was all ready bolted onto this engine, and of course, it has some type of aftermarket carburetor adapter bolted to it.

20220917_154511.jpg

Removed the old adapter and studs, cleaned the intake, installed new studs, dug an old OEM Carter BDD phenolic spacer out of the parts stash, and installed the Sniper provided gaskets:

20220917_164014.jpg

The Holley instructions do not mention if phenolic spacer is needed, I presume it is?

Bolted the Sniper TBI to the intake manifold, which added more wires to my current mess!!!

20220917_165634.jpg

Did a few more easy steps with regards to the Sniper.

I installed the included O2 sensor into the 258's exhaust manifolds original O2 port:

20220917_170526.jpg

Note, the Holley instructions do not agree with me:

20220917_170712.jpg

Using the OEM O2 port you are probably only 2" below the collector, NOT the 6-10 inches that Holley wants. Does this matter??? I run my green Scrambler's O2 sensor in the factory port, no issues or problems. I can revisit this easy enough once I obtain/install the exhaust system.

Installed the coolant temp sensor into the intake manifold, directly into the coolant passage:

20220917_214723.jpg

Lot's of wires, BUT not all of them are needed:

20220917_171752.jpg

I want to finish up a few basic tasks BEFORE proceeding any further with the Sniper install:

1) fan shroud and radiator hoses
2) heater hoses
3) PS pump and lines
4) reinstall the paired down OEM under hood wiring
5) MSD ICM and coil wiring
6) install/hook up new MSD distributor
7) fuel supply and return lines

Going to the Saints game tomorrow, so leaving it like this for a little while:

20220917_171926.jpg

That's it for now!!!
 

Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
Great progress Raymond ! I was up to the PNW for 8 days for the funeral of a younger member of the family. Didn’t connect to the Wi FI the whole time so I didn’t see what was going on. Even drove through Randyzzz hood a couple of times but didn’t have time to connect or stop for a cold brew. :cry:
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
I used the factory O2 location for my install. I think I am getting quality data, and the AFRs look stable.

I used the same port for CTS, and am getting stable 203 degree readings after warmup.

Do you think the MSD 6AL will provide a better spark than the stock ignition system? These are not high rpm engines, I have to think the stock ignition is good enough. Only benefit I could see is letting the sniper control the timing. Thoughts?
 

Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
I will let spankrjs answer for the 6 - 258. On the 4 - 150 with over 200K miles it gave back the new engine feel of great idle and running great. That’s pretty much it I guess. A hot spark to make it run well again.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I used the factory O2 location for my install. I think I am getting quality data, and the AFRs look stable.

I used the same port for CTS, and am getting stable 203 degree readings after warmup.

Do you think the MSD 6AL will provide a better spark than the stock ignition system? These are not high rpm engines, I have to think the stock ignition is good enough. Only benefit I could see is letting the sniper control the timing. Thoughts?

Good to hear about the O2 sensor location, and the coolant temp sensor location :thumbsup:

As for the MSD stuff, I have no personal experience with it :shrug: This Jeep was an AMC 4 cylinder, Andy swapped on the MSD stuff awhile back, so the Jeep did not come with all of the correct OEM Duraspark stuff. The engine does have a 1985 OEM distributor installed, and I am sure I can scrounge up a coil/ICM, do a "nutter bypass", and hook up OEM ignition system. But, since I have the MSD stuff, and it was working, I will just use it.

I always had good luck with the OEM Duraspark stuff, so I never really looked into upgrading the ignition stuff. I have had bad luck with GM HEI components, but I think that has more to do with all the crap Made In China modules, but the same could be said for the Duraspark replacement ICM's. I personally like the D.U.I. HEI distributor/set up, works perfectly and really eliminates a lot of under hood components and wiring.

The MSD stuff is probably overkill for a 258, but if like Andy said it helped his older high mileage 4 cylinder's performance, hard to argue with that. On paper it seams to be an upgrade. I would not be opposed to swapping the same components on a stock 258 to see if there is any difference/improvement. But, if the Duraspark stuff is working, and the components are not wore out/malfunctioning, hard to really compare apples to apples :shrug: But, I am not opposed to the MSD stuff, just no personal experience.

Andy provided a new MSD distributor for me to install, too. It has adjustable mechanical and vacuum advance capability. I plan on installing this distributor, AFTER I adjust it to close to stock 258 vacuum/mechanical advance curves. It does have the ability to completely lock out the mechanical/vacuum advance and let the Sniper handle the ignition timing. I do no plan on using the Sniper ignition timing function at this time.

I have not really researched the Sniper timing features, but it might not really be necessary on a stock 258 :twocents: If the stock or MSD components are adjusted and working correctly, that should be good enough. The Sniper ignition timing control component is a great tool to have, especially on more exotic/far from stock engines/set ups. Just not sure if it is really needed with a stock 258??

I have used Howell TBI set ups with the OEM Duraspark components with no issues, I assume the same can be said for the Holley Sniper system.

The Holley system is definitely super adjustable, with regards to the fuel side and the timing side. I am hoping that it will work fine/self adjust after some driving, enough so that I do not have to dive to deep into the "user customizable" side :fingerscrossed:
 

Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
If for some reason we have difficulty with the MSD Distributor or any of it, I’m not opposed to trying the D U I . I have heard good things about it. The original distributor at the time looked well used.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
I see no reason why you would need to ”work the tables”. I looked at them when I was having fuel supply issues, but the self learning was doing its job. Even the ignition timing can be setup with the hand held display, answer the questions, and you will be close. Let the computer learn the rest.

Like you said, if it was exotic, fine tuning the tables would be best. That said, I think I did fine tune the AFR targets in the software (On a computer, not the hand held display). Leaned out some and fattened others up. Mostly to get what I wanted, not that their canned tune was that bad.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Going out of town this weekend, but did a bit of work to this one the other night. Nothing exciting, but forward progress!!

I was waiting on some parts, test fitting some stuff, removing some stuff, so kind of messy:

20220920_170306.jpg

I pulled the radiator back out to install the fan shroud. Well, since it was out of the way, the un-painted steering shaft that has been bugging me was glaringly obvious, and easy to remove. So, I pulled it it off. No one drilled the indentions in the shaft where the set screws press on the flats, so I took care of that.

Set screw location marks;

20220920_175156.jpg

I used a 21/64" bit to drill the indentations for the 5/16" set screws on the flat sides of the shaft:

20220920_175422.jpg

Used a 3/8" bit to drill the indentations on the round sides of the shaft:

20220920_181200.jpg

RedneckRay paint booth:

20220920_183102.jpg

Removed the old driveshaft u-joints:

20220920_191100.jpg

Kind of scattershot, BUT I picked up some needed parts last night, so once I get back in town, I should be able to quickly finish up most of the "meat and potato" work, then move on to wiring/plumbing.

That's it for now :wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Did a little bit more work on this one today.

Cleaned and painted the driveshafts:

20220925_144300.jpg

Cleaned, primed, and painted the throttle cable bracket assembly:

20220925_145404.jpg

20220925_154924.jpg

Pulled the spark plugs out, TDC'd the engine (added engine oil, too):

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20220925_155239.jpg

Drilled out this dimple inside the steering shaft:

20220925_161021.jpg

Assembled the steering shaft and attached it to the power steering box. Someone else already drilled the set screw dimple on the PS stub.

20220925_172440.jpg

Need to drill the dimple on the steering column lower shaft, and install a new lower steering column bearing assembly.

That's it for now :thumbsup:
 
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