There is a bunch of info on this type of swap out there but here is an excerpt from this thread.
https://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?8868-chevy-350-conversion&highlight=350 swap
Unless you're making your own mounts, use the mounts made by M.O.R.E. They are The best, bar none...and they can be a bolt on, if you want.
Here's a list I copied from one of my earlier posts...
Ok...I grabbed my folder of notes...(I wish I was that neat...I copied the numbers off the box labels I stuck on the garage wall)! So...here goes. If you have any q's, let me know. Oh, and to let you know what I started with, it was an 82 GM "Iron Duke" 151 4 cylinder, with a T-176 trans, and a 4" lift.
1. Motor mounts- M.O.R.E
2. Headers- Hedman "Tight Tubes"
3. Radiator- from Tellico 4X4, about $189.95, works fine.
4. Hoses- Napa # 7470 and #7575. Not sure which is for the top or the bottom, I do remember the bottom had to be trimmed at one end.
5. Power steering hoses- I had Napa make up some compression Fitting splices to fit two hoses together. Works great.
6. I used a stock long water pump with a stock fan clutch, stock fan, and a Commando V-8 shroud. (a cj V-8 shroud should work too).
7. The stock bellhousing fit the Chev 350 motor, find an "iron duke" bellhousing for your swap.
8. Use a 153 tooth flywheel, a diaphragm pressure plate Napa CA1897, and a Napa RCF 556 10.5" disc. This is the combo for the T-176. Use the stock 82 T-176 throwout bearing, and keep the stock hydraulic clutch setup. You will need to file one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts to clear the oil filter, you'll see...
9. The trans mount is attached to a plate which cantalievers the mount backwards. Reverse this setup, you will need to drill new holes in the skid, but they will be on a level area. Again, you'll see.
10.The rear driveshaft is ok with a 4" lift. The front is extended a little too long, but I haven't overflexed it to pull out (yet).
11.The GM hei distributor needs a strong 12v power feed, one of the existing wires will work. Also the temp and oil pressure senders on my 350 were compatible with the stock gauges.
12.I got rid of all the other wires...I hate clutter. Oh, and I used the stock "iron duke" starter...and it cranks the 350 with authority. The GM starter has a built in solenoid, so you can loose the external starter relay and associated wiring. Positive cable to the batt terminal on the starter and the "hot in start" wire to the ign terminal on the starter.
13.I used a stock mechanical GM fuel pump, and capped the tank vent hose.
14.For a daily driver manual trans, the T-176 trans is ok...a little slow between shifts, the 350 builds revs fast. I like the T-176 mostly because I cant justify the $$$ for a NV4500. I am going to a 700R4, I want overdrive with my new 4.56 gears, and my scrambler is a daily driver (50 mi/day) and I am getting too old getting tired of shifting. The TH350 is a great trans too...but with either auto there are going to be clearance problems along the right side of the pan.
15.Everything else seemed to fall into place...but every swap is different. Good Luck!
Ok...that's probably my longest post. I may have to print this out and keep a copy for future reference...but if you have any questions, need any advice, or need pictures of a certain area- let me know!!!
Hope this helps!!!
Last edited by Randyzzz; 10-30-2004 at 12:50 AM.
Basically the Chevy v-8 has had the same bell housing pattern from the early Gen -1's up through the current LS style Gen-IV engines. The 4.3l Chevy V-6 is basically a SBC with a set of middle cylinders removed and therefore shares the same bell housing. The Smaller v-6's that Chevy used are different. Also the Iron Duke 4cyl that Jeep used was the same bell housing as the SBC. So the old Iron duke bell housings that were drilled with the Ford style transmission pattern on the Back ie T-176 will fit any of the SBC engine style rear mounts. Also the T-176 trans pattern is the same as a T-18 so you can go to a granny gear transmission if you wanted. Also some of the T-4/5 Iron Duke bell housings have a cast in dimple where you can drill it out for a Ford pattern transmission.
There is a lot of info there to use but if you can get or have one of these you can even sub in a late model 4.8/5.3/6.0 GM engine.
Carl
One edit- The cheapy conversion radiator wouldn't cool well under load, and eventually started leaking. I replaced it with a Northern aluminum radiator, works great.
