Chevy/GM ECU Reprogramming

[Dave The Sparky]

Anyone able to recommend a ECU re-programmer for my 2001 4.3 Chevy Blazer ECU thats going with the engine in to my 8?
I really want to keep the MPI but for those who dont know i am in the UK so could do with someone who has had a good experiance with this and i can send it to them with some confidence it will be right first time and not go missing or not work when it lands back on my doorstep.
I may be wrong but i think the guys over here are more suited to souping up and remapping Subaru Imprezas and Ford STs than GM lumps!

If it helps at all I need to remove:
4L60E gearbox as going manual
VATS or whatever its called alarm system
Catalytic Converter (Won't be needing that anymore)
Any links to the body control module.
Any links to any other modules!

Essentially i would like the ECU to just turn the fuel pump on, fire some injectors,create a spark and just run the engine and do absolutely nothing else!.
It would be good if someone has done this before as there may be some other bits i have missed or am unaware of although i am sure its a everyday thing in the States!.
I have googled it and found a couple of places but they all look like a bit of a back street operation and i am not sure i trust them!.
Thanks Dave

 

[walkerhoundvm]

There's a guy in the states who does V8 pcms. For all I know, he can do 4.3s too.

http://www.lt1swap.com/

He's pretty good at responding to emails every few days.

 

[Mancunian]

Did you check out this site,

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/start-here-fuel-injection-faq-start-here.47254/

Lots of info and help, I believe he may sell ecu's

http://hamiltonfuelinjection.com/

In UK I would try a sports car club, think I saw a web page for someone putting one on a tr6

 

[ag4ever]

If you are good with a computer and don’t plan to do any custom fuel/spark maps, you could buy efiLive and do the programming yourself. Might even be able to download a tune from their forum that would work. If you get brave you can start tuning the fuel/spark for better power/economy.

 

[sdsupilot]

Having 1000 miles on my 4.3 swap, my only advice would be to strongly consider keeping the 4l60. I had a manual before and wouldn't go back, but it is personal preference.

With mine, I never separated the engine/trans. Worked the harness following Bills advice on the binder planet links above and didn't need to tune the ECU 89 TBI. Working the harness yourself is nice, as you can tailor the lengths to make the install look better. Harness work was the longest part of the project though...

 

[Dave The Sparky]

Thanks everyone i must admit i didn't expect such a response, this forum amazes me sometimes i have plenty to go on there!.

sdsupilot I did consider just bolting the whole lot in and getting an adapter for the D300 but it was going to cost a massive amount to both buy the adapter and to send it over and then it wouldn't really solve anything i would still need to get rid of the irritating alarm system from the ECU no matter what, then there is the small matter of purchasing an after market shifter it just goes on and on!.
The 8 its going in was a 4 cyl so it has the T176 with the Chevy pattern bell housing pattern so it will theoretically bolt straight up to it and i really dont mind changing gears i think it will be more fun with a manual but like you say its personal preference.
The wiring does not phase me really the "sparky" in my forum user name is slang for electrician and i would probably have a go at doing the programming myself had i got the time, but i dont and would rather spend the $250 dollars or whatever it cost to have someone do it properly first time and allow me to concentrate on other more important things.

Cheeky question whilst i am here what did you do for headers in yours? did the standard ones fit?

 

[sdsupilot]

Post #83 has the pictures.

I used the factory S10 manifolds. It isn't my finest fab work, but it doesn't leak or rattle. I bought 2 2.25" J bends from summit or jegs then cut and welded. The manifolds dump to the rear, then I rerouted around the front of the oil pan to join the drivers side. For $30 I am perfectly happy.

Understand not wanting to buy adapters and shifters. I spent like $250 on my Lokar shifter (worth it). I used a passenger drop np241C, so I didn't need an adapter. I did however then spend $600 on new driveshafts. If I had a T176 there is a good chance I would have kept it. They are a good transmission.