ok... I take no credit for the information below. I was able to dig this up from archives on the internet. Here is some information from CJOffroad.com specifically from "Jeep Daddy" that I was able to find that should help to answer some questions for OBDI Swaps:
1. How do you install the in tank fuel pump in a 20 gal. plastic CJ tank?
answer: hose clamp pump to bottom of CJ's pickup tube. Cut tube to fit first. Drill 2 1/4" hole in top of sender. Install 2 1/4" rubber gommets. Splice wire on fuel pump and tripple tripple shink tube. Thread up through grommets. Install in tank. You want the pump to where it just touches the bottom or is just slightly above the bottom. Thread huge plastic retaining nut back on and seal the entire top of sender. I used GE silicon II but if I know of a fuel proof product, I'd use that. I'm told that silicon doesn't hold up to fuel but I just don't want the smell to get past the grommets.
2. How do you center the fan on an XJ motor like the one on the old 258 in a CJ?
Answer: Buy a YJ Wrangler water pump from you local parts store then order a water pump pully from your Dealer for a Wrangler. Note: same pully fits Cherokee 2.5L engines. The part number is: 53007154 Use the original CJ clutch fan. Use studs from old water pump. Trim studs where the XJ fan mounted with a cut off grinder.
3. How do you manage the new XJ wiring harness so it doesn't have all that wire and old connecters that you don't need any more?
Answer: This takes time. Start by labeling all the connecters so that you know what they go to. I did this when I removed the harness from the donor. Then I removed most of the plastic split tube and most of the stuff that wrapped the wires. I started by cutting the old tranny connecters off and the connecter that goes to the TCM. Make sure you don't cut the connecter that goes to the CPS or the VSS. These two you keep. Start by pulling all the tranny and TCM wire back to where they originate and cut. By the time you finish this, you will have most of the unneeded wires off. But wait. There's more. Cut the unneeded wires off of the bulkhead connecter. Label the ones you need to keep then cut them loose from the BH connecter. You should have 4 or 5 labeled from the BH connecter. Find wires 30 BR/YL Neutral, 32 BK/PK MIL Safety, 43 GY/LB Tach signal wire, and label them. I left all the labeled wires long enough to reach the where the CJ bulkhead connecter is. I have labeled the #30 wire, but not cut yet since I don't know how it works yet. When done, by some 1" split tube from Home Depot, and get some 1/2", and 3/8" split tube from any parts store. Use the thick black duct tape at points where wire intersect to protect them from chaffing. Install the proper size split tube. Cut strips of duct tape and tape split tubing about ever foot or so. Wala, brand new harness ready to put in your CJ. I also cut al the tabs off the PDU mounting bracket with a cutoff grinder so it would fit flat against the fender. Good Luck
4. Do I need a CPS (crank position sensor)?
Answer: Yes. There are a couple of ways to adapt a CPS to your engine. One, purchase a relocation kit from one of several sources that includes a bracket, CPS and new vibration damper for about $300. Two, have your bellhousing modified (Novak) to accept the stock CPS and purchase a used flywheel from a salvage yard. The flywheel has to have the notches for the CPS signal so your stock flywheel has to go. If going with the AW4 automatic tranny, you can use all the donor stuff and it will work fine. Don't forget, you'll need the TCM to make the AW4 shift properly. The AW4 may need to be modified to fit your transfer case. I don't go this route.
5. Do I need a VSS (vehicle speed sensor)
Answer: Yes. Some people claim that they don't have one and that there rig runs fine. I have read a lot about people that don't have one and there engines are not idling right, getting poor gas mileage, or generally just not running right at all. Well, I've been told by the people at Hesco that you do need one and that the PCM learns from the VSS so that it can adjust for speed, stops, and cruising. To install one on your CJ, just buy a kit from Hesco and install it on the transfer case, and then screw the speedo cable into it. Use two of the three wires in your haress to hook it up and your done. You can also do some research in this forum and try buying these parts individually from a Dodge dealer to fit your rig.
6. How do I wire up an MIL (check engine light)
Answer: Find the BK/PK wire at #32 (Check Engine) on your PCM connecter and solder it to a 12vdc LED - side. Find a switched + source inside your rig (any accessory source is fine) and solder it to the + side of the LED. Mount inside your cab and put a "check engine" label next to it.
7. What's this I here about using a metric bolt on my motor mount. Which motor mount
Motor mount metric bolt and pan mods:
Buy a 12mm fine thread bolt about 1" long. I got one that was about 1.5" long (all they had) and cut it to fit with a cutoff grinder. Drill out the motor mount plate to fit the bolt. You may need to do some slight grinding on the lip of the oil pan of the passenger side for the motor mount bolts to fit right.
8. How do I get the power steering to work when the pump is from the donor XJ/YJ and the gear box is still the old CJ
Well, after a lot of learning the hard way, I found out that the cleanest way is to take the old hose from the CJ and the donor hose from the XJ or YJ to a hydraulic hose shop and they will cut off the old rubber hoses and weld new ends on the steel parts and include a hose with AN (army/navy) fitting on both ends for ease of installation.
8a. But how do I get the old hose off the PS pump?
This was the hard part since I'd never done it before. I fubared the pulley on mine and need to replace it when I get back from wheelin'. My advise is don't use the wrong tool. The technique and tool for safely removing the PS hose is to use a 'Puller' designed for PS pulley's. $20 at Harbor Frieght Tools. After pulling the pulley, remove the mounting plate (3 1/2" bolts) Then you remove the PS reservoir by prying up a little on the inside of the clips while someone helps you hammer and punch the clips. They slide off only one way. Then give the reservoir a little wiggle and tug and it will come right off. Then the hose will unscrew. You will need the PS 'puller' to put the pulley back on. Use the right tool for the job.
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Questions for OBDI'ers I'd like answers to are:
1. How do I modify my fuel lines to work on the OBDI fuel rails?I used high pressure hose and double hose clamped for now but I'll be using the quick disconnects from the XJ fuel line on the fuel rail. I think I can cut off the old hose and reuse the quick disconnects. The quick disconnects have a ridge to help keep the hoses on.
2. What, if anything, do I need to do to make radiator hoses fit nice?I found out that the bottom hose from the CJ works great. The top hose was touching the York pully so I kept shortening the stock CJ hose until I had clearance. I think I shortened it about 1.5"
3. What air cleaner works best and is CARB legal on my CJ with the 4.0 engine swap?I can't tell you if this will pass smog yet, but Hesco sells a nice air cleaner for the MPI kit they sell and it has all the fittings, hose, and fasteners to make it work for $139--** I passed smog yesterday with this air intake system.
4. Can I reuse the CJ's cat on the 4.0 exhaust legally?If it is a good cat you CAN use it. I had to replace mine because the old CJ cat was blown completely out.
5. Where do I install the mechanical temp sender on a 4.0 engine?I found out that Hesco also sells a neat 'T' that fits nicely in the heater hoses. It threaded for 3/8" pipe and my brass 3/8" adapter for the sender fit perfect. $12
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I hope I'm not offending the original poster by putting this on here to share. I hope that this helps to answer some questions for others doing the 4.0L OBDI swap like my self.
Ken
