The 1985 Base model CJ8 I bought my wife came with non-power brakes. I want to install power brakes. I tried contacting Off Again 4x4 to purchase their Navajo system without luck. Can anyone recommend another kit? What else is needed? Do I need a different proportioning valve and brake lines?
Disc brake booster conversion for 1985 Base model
- Thread starter Super 8
- Start date
- City
- W-S
- State
- NC
I used a YJ booster off of CL and I think a '78 Corvette M/C. I'd have to verify but I was running new hard lines anyway. I also added rear discs and haven't done a thing to the proportioning valve and all is well.
- City
- Yuba City
- State
- CA
Yeah, I screwed around for two months trying to get the Navajo system. The product might be good, but the customer service stinks.
I ended up ordering the "A-Team" setup from Southwest Performance: https://swperformanceparts.com/product/pbuj7486d-1/ .
I had 38 year old factory power brakes on my Scrambler before, so the bar was set pretty low, but I'm happy with the new setup so far. I'm running 33" tires, and I can lock up the wheels at neighborhood speeds if I really need to.
If I were running bigger tires, or wheeling a lot in steep terrain, I could certainly see the benefit of hydro-assist brakes, though.
I installed new stainless brake lines and calipers at the same time, but I cleaned and re-used my existing combination valve. SWP also offers a kit with a new combination valve, if you need one.
Have fun!
I ended up ordering the "A-Team" setup from Southwest Performance: https://swperformanceparts.com/product/pbuj7486d-1/ .
I had 38 year old factory power brakes on my Scrambler before, so the bar was set pretty low, but I'm happy with the new setup so far. I'm running 33" tires, and I can lock up the wheels at neighborhood speeds if I really need to.
If I were running bigger tires, or wheeling a lot in steep terrain, I could certainly see the benefit of hydro-assist brakes, though.
I installed new stainless brake lines and calipers at the same time, but I cleaned and re-used my existing combination valve. SWP also offers a kit with a new combination valve, if you need one.
Have fun!
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
I have a CJ booster/MC Unknown condition laying on my floor if you want it. I bought it with a lot of parts but it is supposed to be good just sitting a long time. Send me an address and I will send it to you.
- City
- Minneapolis
- State
- MN
I had to go back to the wayback time machine for this one... here's what I did. (The wayback time machine is an awesome tool for research on old websites if you haven't used it before.)
https://web.archive.org/web/20080607095351/http://www.bustedjeep.com/projects/yjbrakes.asp
If the direct link doesn't work, everything you need is on the June 7th, 2008 capture.
Kyle
https://web.archive.org/web/20080607095351/http://www.bustedjeep.com/projects/yjbrakes.asp
If the direct link doesn't work, everything you need is on the June 7th, 2008 capture.
Kyle
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
On my current build I also used the 8” A-Team booster, master and bracket. I was a bit less than satisfied with how sloppy the tolerances were on the linkage, and ended up spending a couple of hours getting everything up to my standards. There’s a couple pics in my build thread. I can’t give any real operational feedback as it isn’t on the road yet.
On Copper I started out with the Pirate Jack 7” booster/bracket combo. I seem to remember the Pirate Jack bracket and linkage being better quality. But the 7” booster wasn’t quite adequate, so I upgraded to a Tuff Stuff Performance 8” booster and new master. I was satisfied with that.
It seems that getting a good proportioning valve is a problem- I went through a few before I got a good one that didn’t seep fluid. So- if you are still running disc/drum brakes I would recommend keeping the stock valve if it’s serviceable. On my new setup, I think I’m going to try the Wilwood adjustable valve. I’ve read a few complaints that it’s hard to get the lines to seal to the aluminum body. We shall see.
On Copper I started out with the Pirate Jack 7” booster/bracket combo. I seem to remember the Pirate Jack bracket and linkage being better quality. But the 7” booster wasn’t quite adequate, so I upgraded to a Tuff Stuff Performance 8” booster and new master. I was satisfied with that.
It seems that getting a good proportioning valve is a problem- I went through a few before I got a good one that didn’t seep fluid. So- if you are still running disc/drum brakes I would recommend keeping the stock valve if it’s serviceable. On my new setup, I think I’m going to try the Wilwood adjustable valve. I’ve read a few complaints that it’s hard to get the lines to seal to the aluminum body. We shall see.
- City
- Rochester
- State
- Mi
Perfect timing for this thread to pop up. I’m still trying to find the best upgraded valve for the disc/disc. I looked at the Willwood as well, but wasn’t sure of the aluminum body. Has any one else run that?
- City
- Halifax
- State
- UK
Workef fine for me but i used Cupronickel, Stainless lines may be a different story i guess?
Great write up