DOJO's 1st OCHO

[DOJOLOACH]

Well well, figured its time to pop the cherry on making a build thread.

After a few years of looking I decided I wanted to move forward with a CJ8 due to the unique body and ability to have 3 rows of seats. A fully restored version was out of my price range and after looking at a few rust buckets I decided to put more $$$ up initially and have less repair/body work. I found a guy that had lost interest in his scrambler project after he had gone through 3 donor scramblers, new frame, new body, restored a few items, etc, my father and I made the trip up to Ohio from Charlotte, NC area to pack up the project in totes on an open bed trailer.

Primary goal of the rig is to be reliable for 3hr drives to the beach and mild offroad use, no extremes.

A few specifications:
AMC20 Rear 4.10 gears, 1 piece yukon axles, tubes welded to the housing, detroit locker, widetrack
Dana30 Front 4.10 gears, detroit locker, widetrack
Dana300 rebuilt
T-5 transmission (Looking at NV4500's or AX15's)
AMC360 running with good compression (To be rebuilt for potential boost or nitrous)
New Rough country 2.5" lift
New standard TDK frame
New Willys overland tub

Everything else is mostly stock as you would find on an 82 CJ8

After looking at other builds I really wanted to do an SOA conversion or larger lift than 2.5" so I can run 33" or 35" tires but still debating how to go about this, I hate to see the brand new lift kit go to waste. It also appears an SOA conversion with widetrack axles isn't the best idea for tipping over on the road.

I'll be starting the assembly with welding motor mounts onto the frame and test fitting the drivetrain with new tub, epoxy priming and black chassis paint. I found a guy that would trade me his 4" lift springs for my 2.5", however I'm not thrilled about the rough country brand name. I'd be curious to hear recommendations on other options to get me decent lift for 35" tires.

 

[John N]

A good 4”-4.5” spring under lift will clear 33’s easily and 35’s if you’re not flexing out. Good spring brands are Rubicon Express and BDS. Even these w probably need a full length add-a-leaf with the weight of a Scrambler and a V-8. Personally, Rough Country is just what it says. Also a TDK frame will already have a 1” body lift built in, so you’ve got that extra clearance.

 

[bigwalton]

A good 4”-4.5” spring under lift will clear 33’s easily and 35’s if you’re not flexing out. Good spring brands are Rubicon Express and BDS. Even these w probably need a full length add-a-leaf with the weight of a Scrambler and a V-8. Personally, Rough Country is just what it says. Also a TDK frame will already have a 1” body lift built in, so you’ve got that extra clearance.

Beat me to it. No reason in the world to get into the complications that an SOA brings for 33s and very little even for 35s. Just trim or deal with the rubbing, especially with the TDK frame being set up well.

I love how mine now rides with the BDS springs and Fox 2.0 shocks I have in it, but I did their full length add a leaf on both sides with an extra leaf on the one side to FINALLY do away with the CJ lean I had forever. Basically they need the add a leaf for anything more than a dead stock scrambler.

 

[DOJOLOACH]

Thanks for the input on the lift scenario. I think I'm leaning towards trading a guy for his 4" Rough country springs (short term), but paying for the premium shocks like Fox. Down the road I'll upgrade the springs to BDS and 2.5" width, add a leaf like you guys suggested. I was planning to do a 1" body lift but it doesn't sound like a good idea now.

I also found a buyer of my T-5 locally, so I'm looking at using that money towards a 5speed (AX15, NV3550, or NV4500), I'm thinking the AX15 and a rebuild kit are going to be my first choice but open to others inputs.

 

[tower210]

Thanks for the input on the lift scenario. I think I'm leaning towards trading a guy for his 4" Rough country springs (short term), but paying for the premium shocks like Fox. Down the road I'll upgrade the springs to BDS and 2.5" width, add a leaf like you guys suggested. I was planning to do a 1" body lift but it doesn't sound like a good idea now.

I also found a buyer of my T-5 locally, so I'm looking at using that money towards a 5speed (AX15, NV3550, or NV4500), I'm thinking the AX15 and a rebuild kit are going to be my first choice but open to others inputs.

Keep in mind AX-15 new from novak aren't really crazy expensive (at least it didn't used to be)

 

[John N]

I’ve seen a lot of threads on Rough Country springs being too short and bad shackle angles…..so look out. They’re not unknown issues.

 

[mwqpd11]

I put a 4 inch on my friends scrambler. He is not happy at all with it. It rides really rough. RC lift

 

[AdamH]

RC stands for Rough Country = 'nuff said

I also have never liked how RC stuff rides - both their leaf spring set-ups and coil springs. I have driven many of both.

@DOJOLOACH if interested you are welcome to come take a ride in my BDS equipped Scrambler. it's only 2.5" and it's a front YJ conversion but I've also owned CJs with the BDS 4" and had no issues with suspension comfort.

For the money I will always be a BDS guy.

 

[DOJOLOACH]

RC stands for Rough Country = 'nuff said

I also have never liked how RC stuff rides - both their leaf spring set-ups and coil springs. I have driven many of both.

@DOJOLOACH if interested you are welcome to come take a ride in my BDS equipped Scrambler. it's only 2.5" and it's a front YJ conversion but I've also owned CJs with the BDS 4" and had no issues with suspension comfort.

For the money I will always be a BDS guy.

I'll have to take you up on that offer, I honestly have never even sat in a scrambler lol.

Some updates:

-I finally got around to painting the frame, using eastwood products (2 coats of epoxy primer, 2 coats of chassis black). Have a few paint runs I may touch up later.

- AX15 arrived, still waiting on the shift tower. I also got the amc360 weld in mounts, and advancedadapters T-Case clocking ring and bellhousing adapter.

-I paid for a membership on the forum, man I love not having ads everywhere!

- Next up is to rebuild the Dana 30 and start painting other drivetrain components. I bought a couple torque wrenches and dial indicator for the axle gearing. Picked up a mig180 from primeweld to start learning on the next few months before I weld anything important.

- Adam I see how that sandblast and powder coat is such a good deal. What's their contact Info? I'm getting quotes on sandblasting some of these axle and steering parts

 

[AdamH]

Nice progress.

CRC Powder Coating on Mooresville. Best around this area by far.

 

[sdsupilot]

This looks like a very nice project. I also have BDS 4" springs. It is an older kit but rides and flexes well. Currently I have Bilstein shocks on it.

If sandblasting the axles, make sure to get all the sand cleaned out. Had a friend go that route. Somehow he missed a bit while cleaning and made a mess of his new gears and bearings.

 

[DOJOLOACH]

Small update, finally accomplished something and have the rear end mounted as well as the front leaf springs. Lots of parts sitting in the garage as well.

I went to test fit the gas tank and looks like both mounting lips will need to be relocated, I haven't found much info on installation on forums or from Aerotank. Can anyone tell me how much clearance I need between the top of the tank and the bottom of the Tub? From other pictures of standard tanks, it just looks like the fuel lines going from the tank to the engine are the only thing there. I at least have 2/3 of the front bolts in which tells me I'm using the right crossmembers to mount it. Here are some photos

I also found this photo on the forum from 2006, basically looks like the top of the tank is parallel to the frame and below that first mounting crossmember, but how much below it is too hard to tell.

 

[DOJOLOACH]

Coming along slowly, Small checkpoint as I can now move this thing around on 4 wheels. Within the past couple weeks I finally have the front axle rebuilt and mounted.

Relocating the gas tank mounts right now due to differences of the TDK crossmembers vs. OEM, the front mount needed to be lowered an inch or so, the rear mount needed raised several inches.

Now I am building some sawhorses to stage the tub on, while allowing the frame to be rolled in and out. After the gas tank is mounted it is time to get the engine/transmission/T-case mounted (I plan to mount the tub and grill for this). Once drivetrain is mounted I believe I will need to shim the rear axle 2-4 degrees and I'll get some driveshafts ordered. Any recommendations on driveshafts that don't break the bank?

My next projects after the driveline (Unless I have suggestions otherwise), would be fuel/brake lines, then test assembling everything to the tub. I read some good advice on here and that is to assemble the tub before bodywork and painting.

 

[bigwalton]

Definitely dry fit everything on the tub. Very good call.

 

[mwqpd11]

I have had good luck with Tatton driveshafts,from out West.

 

[DOJOLOACH]

I'll check Tatton out.

Yeah I figured I could dry fit everything, get the problem areas of the new tub fixed and then painted. While everything gets bodywork I would have time to refinish/restore everything else going on this thing

 

[DOJOLOACH]

I found a guy on Facebook marketplace selling an old STC/ Kayline black soft top, the top is worn a bit with a couple abrasions on the top middle panel of fabric, selling for $550 shipped.

Yall think Im better off fitting the Kayline top on the new tub vs. a $1500 best top? I read some horror stories on here, mostly about Best top. I'll take some measurements on the tub but ultimately I'll find a way to put the top on

 

[gpassida]

I found a guy on Facebook marketplace selling an old STC/ Kayline black soft top, the top is worn a bit with a couple abrasions on the top middle panel of fabric, selling for $550 shipped.

Yall think Im better off fitting the Kayline top on the new tub vs. a $1500 best top? I read some horror stories on here, mostly about Best top. I'll take some measurements on the tub but ultimately I'll find a way to put the top on

I had run a Kayline full top for years but it got thrashed by age and trees. During my rebuild, I waited for one to come up for sale and finally got a "new old stock" one here on the forum. I believe it has one more bow (3) versus the Bestop and probably flaps less. I can do 75 mph and it does well.

During the "atmospheric river" storm that just moved through here I parked my Scrambler outside to do a leak test. Three inches of rain later, I went out to check it out. I have a few leaks. The windshield glass seal leaked minorly in two places, the threads of the top wicked water in in a few places and I have one behind the dash leak. May be from the air vent intake box or windshield squirter which I capped off. I will put some TJ squirters in the hood shortly. I also drove it in a heavy downpour. I am pleased with the Blazer blower motor swap. Before the rebuild, my defrosters did virtually nothing. The Blazer motor did great clearing the windows. And the YJ wipers also worked great.

I will get some tent seam sealer and go over the seams on the inside of the top.

Here is a pic with the Kayline top:

 

[Chamba]

Bear in mind though in reference to the picture of George's @gpassida Kayline above: just like the same bikini will look far better on Jennifer Aniston than it does on Whoopi Goldburgh.... your results may not be as striking.

 

[timo439]

Bear in mind though in reference to the picture of George's @gpassida Kayline above: just like the same bikini will look far better on Jennifer Aniston than it does on Whoopi Goldburgh.... your results may not be as striking.

That’s is some straight up 90’s references.