Dr. Jones and the Quest for the Holy Scrambler

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Houston
State
TX
#1
I started this build in 2003. Bought a Scrambler, decided its too nice to cut up. Bought another scrambler, decided it was too rough. Finally bought a third and got to work in 2007. I owe my inspiration to many of you on the board.

The dates might be off - since the build spanned 6 years, 4 garages, 2 countries..

Goal:
Build a mechanically reliable rig that starts when the key is turned.
Must be able to be inspected.
Must have at least 3 seats.
Must be a scrambler.

Disclaimer - I have 3 Scramblers. One is all original. One is parts.. This will be the Rock Crawler..

My plan was to use the parts Scrambler I had as a start.

After removing the body,

I discovered the frame rot was by far the worst on the planet. Oddly enough the frame forward of the rear hangers was perfect. This Scrambler is an Auto, making it one of 400 for that year. So the title is worth what I paid, and the parts I sold have already recovered most of the cost.

I searched for a replacement frame for some time. In December 06 I found this scrambler frame and tub. But the guy was asking way to much for it.

December 06 - Karl and I picked up my Dana60/14 Bolt from a guy in Hemphill Texas.


(oooo the Death 250 liked all that weight)
 

jjonesee

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City
Houston
State
TX
#2
I switched jobs, moved to Houston, projects went on hold..
Well in September 07 the guy puts the Yellow Scrambler above up for sale more in my price range so I pick it up. The Death 250 was involved again, and for the first and last time in that Jeeps life it traveled 90 MPH backwards through downtown Houston..

I went to work stripping down the Yellow Scrambler..

Frame had some rust through, but not near as bad as my other option.
I bought a mig welder, and built a few side projects, to build my confidence in the frame repair.


Decided to box the frame with 1/8" plate. Terrible Idea.

Only plated the inside of the front frame rails.
 

jjonesee

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City
Houston
State
TX
#3
Outboarded the front springs, decided to leave the shackles up front and save for links.


Got a sweet deal on a 2002 5.3L, 4L60E. Has 55K miles on it.

Rolling chassis.


I thought I could bolt the body down, but I discovered the previous owner removed it from the frame last time without removing the bolts first. (Body was not bolted down when I got it). So it got flipped.

Wirewheel work..

It sat this way over the summer, while I built the M-100 trailer, and smoker.
Fixed body mounts, flipped body.


I found one inch taller body mounts, since they were cheaper than factory rubber ones.
 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
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City
Houston
State
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#5
I aquired he parts to build a 241/D300 Doubler.. Well, two doublers.. its complicated..
NP-241 = 2.72:1
D-300 = 2.62:1
4L60E = 3.06 First
Axle = 4.56
TOTAL = 99.44:1

vrs.

NP-241 = 2.72:1
D-300 = 2.62:1
SM465 = 6.55 First
Axle = 4.56
TOTAL = 212.85:1

So how much is too much? Its hard to compare the too since one is auto one is stick. I was always under the impression that 100 and up is golden, but once you go above 200 its a bit pointless. I have all the parts to build the auto, I have most of the parts to build the SM465. I will run the auto for now.









I need to cut one thing off the NP-241 PD so I can clock the D300 flat, but you get the idea.
 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
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City
Houston
State
TX
#6


Got my seats in. Plan is to use the fixed headrests with lumbar up front and two with removable headrests as back seats. (I couldnt get a black back seat) I have contemplated just running one rear seat also. I will need to clearence the rear wheel wells to fit the two with removable headrests side by side. Real nice, and look identical to the Mastercrafts we used to sell for three times as much.

 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
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City
Houston
State
TX
#7
Swung it in by myself.





I previously clocked the dana 300 to clear the transmission, but it is hanging low here.



BDR came by, and convinced me to pull the engine out again and re-clock the Dana 300. This should work.. Looks like I can run a 1.5" OD front shaft and stay out of the transmission pan.


 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
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City
Houston
State
TX
#8
One crossmember built, motor mounts welded in. Steering shaft will clear.













24" to the frame rail.
 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Houston
State
TX
#9
Floorboards.. Dont do this.. ever.. And if anyone recommends rubber undercoating for floorboards, I will shoot you..



Cut away to good metal.


Fit in the replacements. (Thanks RayRay)


Weld in.. (Weld is a relative term here.. I think I burned more holes than I started with. Driver side came out better than the passenger.)


Seam sealer - the great equalizer.


Paint.. And thank goodness I plan to line the inside with bedliner to hide my crappy welding..


 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Houston
State
TX
#10
Been a while since I updated this...

Sandblasting..





Always filter the sand first..


Before:


45 min later..






 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Houston
State
TX
#12
French the rear hangers..







Had trouble welding vertical..


Plates cut out.. (1/8 inch spacer, 1/4" side plates.. Frame already has 1/8" plating.)








 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Houston
State
TX
#15
So since I frenched the rear hangers, the front outboard sat high. If I had any hope of this going into the garage with 42's, I would need to redo it..


Right after I got the frame, this was one of the first things I did. It was a ton of work, as the material was galvanized.. I basically just made platforms for the wider axle, in the stock locations.








So I bet I spent a good few days grinding and cutting/welding to make that work.. All went away after an hour or so with the torch/plasma/grinder..




 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
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City
Houston
State
TX
#18
Sandblast:





Metal Ready etch, then Paint with POR15.




Next Day:





POR15 is pretty col stuff. It will not come off skin... :shock:
 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Houston
State
TX
#19
Motor -



Tub.. (I am getting good at this, hopefully this is the last time)




Primer on the corner guards





Fuel Cell Access:


 

jjonesee

Jeep Pro
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Houston
State
TX
#20
So,

Before, 103" Wheelbase, 26" to bottom of frame rails, on 31" tires.. So after 42's would be 31.5 to bottom of frame.. "Ship in a Bottle"


After a Weeks worth of work, new springs, etc.. 110" Wheelbase, 22" to bottom of frame rails, So after 42's should be around 27" Much Better..


Odds are it isnt going into the garage without letting air out of the tires. I suppose I could cut away more of the body mounts, or something more drastic. I could always remove a leaf out of the 44044's.

Do I need to be in the LWB Forum now?
 
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