Holley Sniper EFI for BBD Carbs

ag4ever

Average Nut
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CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
#1
Here goes, I got tired of finicky carbs and crossing my fingers hoping the overlander would start. So, I bit the bullet and bought a Sniper EFI kit.

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I bought the ”master” kit that includes the fuel system upgrade components thinking that is how I would plumb it.

Above is what comes in the big box from Holley.

(I sure hope it does not add too much HP, what with the NOS parts they sent :ROFLMAO:)
 

ag4ever

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Richmond
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TX
#2
while waiting for the kit to arrive, I did some research and thinking about how to feed fuel to the throttle body. I ended up buying one of these:

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I like this type of fuel feed since it keeps the pump submerged, the return line to the tank will be adequate since it is returning low pressure fuel from the mechanical pump, and the mechanical pump is pulling fuel from the stank like the stock setup.

I figured this would be a good way to go since it is similar to the fuel feed on my ski boat. Pleasure Craft Marine has utilized what they call the Fuel Control Center “FCC” since they converted to EFI. Mine is an ‘02 version on a Chevy 350 type engine. I’ve never had a lick of trouble from it since new. The FCC also integrates a fuel filter. I had though about buying a FCC and using that, but the FiTech unit looks to be more easily serviced with more standardized parts. The PCM parts are much more expensive since they are intended for a marine environment.
 

ag4ever

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Richmond
State
TX
#3
While doing research, I never could find actual dimensions of the FiTech surge tank, so here goes.

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ag4ever

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Richmond
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TX
#5
So, this is what I am starting with:

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This is a non-computer controlled carb, but it still has the electrical/vacuum solenoid for the idle adjustment. This carb also had the choke damaged and was bypassed with the use of a lawnmower type cable run into the cab. SMH.
 

ag4ever

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Richmond
State
TX
#6
While digging through the wiring harness looking for a good source of key run/start power, I discover all the factory multi-tap points were wrapped with grey duct tape for insulation. SMH.

So, next step was cleaning (actual cleaning grease off) wires and labeling them.

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Then, re-loom them after using real electrical tape on the multi-taps.
 

gr8dain

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
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SOA Member
City
Ashburn
State
VA
#7
Good luck with the Sniper. I loved the one I had. Besides the reliable starts, it did great off camber compared to my old carb.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
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City
Richmond
State
TX
#8
This engine had 2 CTO valves for vacuum hoses on the intake manifold. The front one had been broken previously and glued back together. SMH.

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So, I have 2 ports to choose from for the computer temperature sensor.

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I am thinking about using the front one for the computer (like the factory does for the computer controlled carb) and the next one for a CTO valve for a reconfigured vacuum hose system. The new vacuum hose system is to trigger the vapor canister purge, and the PCV trigger. Above I have a plug and the Holley supplied temperature switch mocked up.
 

ag4ever

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City
Richmond
State
TX
#9
On to the O2 sensor. I was thinking of using the clamp on sensor mount, but there is no straight section close to the manifold I think will be compatible with that setup.

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Not thrilled with that setup. So, I ordered a weld on bung.

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ag4ever

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City
Richmond
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TX
#10
After reading this Blog about Jeep Adventures Under the Hood and his documentation of the Jeep emissions and computer controlled carb, it clicked that hey, I might have a spot for the O2 sensor

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Sure enough, right above the collector flange, O2 port, that is plugged.

So, I tried to pull the plug, NoGo, it is stuck.

Then I got the bright idea that I have another manifold on a junk engine. Sure enough, that one had the factory O2 sensor in it, and I was able to pull that sensor no problem, but...

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That manifold has a nasty crack in it, so NoGo once again.
 
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ag4ever

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City
Richmond
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TX
#13
What I need to do next is buy a sacrificial 7/8” socket that I can grind the tip off so it has better engagement of the plug. None of my sockets or wrenches have a good flat nose, all have a taper to allow it to slide over bolt heads better.

This is my stubborn plug that must be removed. I would try drilling it out, but I am concerned about damaging my only good manifold.

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tower210

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
#15
Back before my engine swap; I had exhaust manifold issues. I found one in a local JY and took it to my machine shop and had it machined perfect before installing (only $40). Saying that; I'd just have cut a new piece in after the cast iron portion and have a bung welded in...
 

Mancunian

Lifetime Member
LIFETIME
City
Bridgeport
State
WV
#16
I put my sensor in place of the port in the exhaust pipe where the catalytic convertor air tube goes, ground off the tube and welded the O2 plug there, its on top and seems to work well. Sorry be a few days before i can post pics of my actual setup, but this should be enough.
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ag4ever

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Richmond
State
TX
#17
Mine does not have a catalytic converter, so there is no air tube on the exhaust.

I ordered a dorman replacement manifold, supposed to be here tomorrow. I’ll see how that compares to the stock one.

I’m avoiding pulling the exhaust pipe to weld a bung in. Just don’t want to dig the welder out since it is blocked in by the overlander in the garage. Being lazy.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
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City
Richmond
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TX
#18
Dorman exhaust manifold:

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Only issue I see right off hand is I need to scavenge the heat riser off the damaged manifold, and the new manifold does not look like those holes are tapped for attachment.

Edit - the heat riser is held on with rivets, gonna need to find some to peen a riser on the replacement manifold.
 
Last edited:

ag4ever

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Richmond
State
TX
#19
So, I was stripping my “junk” intake manifold down for cleaning and the heater came apart. I did not use much effort trying to get it out, but I guess it was too much because the steel backing plate pealed up and the aluminum element broke.

If anybody is interested in seeing what is inside:

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After getting the intake stripped and spending 30 minutes in the blast cabinet, here is what I have:

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I still have more cleaning to do, and I need to decide if I paint it black like from the factory or leave it raw.

Interesting that this intake is dated 3/83 and the overlander intake is 4/83. This date code is “MAR” with 8 above and 3 below. The overlander has 12 segment in a circle with 4 pips indicating the month. Must have been 2 different foundries making them.

If anybody knows of a source for a replacement intake heater I’d be interested.
 

ag4ever

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City
Richmond
State
TX
#20
I had to find and buy a manifold because the engine I bought to rebuild had a bad header. I don't remember a plug like that. Think it had a tube there maybe
I think that tube is the one to the right for the EGR. I know there was the exhaust manifolds that bolted to the intake for heating them, ‘79 and earlier I believe. That is how my 232 is setup. Also a single barrel carb. I doubt amc made multiple castings for the ‘80 and latter engines, but I am not sure.

This engine has an air pump and not the latter pulse air system for air injection to the exhaust. But the air pump was not hooked up to anything, just a hose to the valve with a hose from that just laying on the top of the engine.
 
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