Out of curiosity, I checked my rear drive shaft length this morning. It will fit, but the slip joint is pretty much at the long end of it's travel at ride height.
Interestingly, the SM465/Novak adapter/D300 combo turned out to be exactly the same length as the M20/Advance adapter/D300 combo... but, the MORE engine mounts shifted everything forward a little more than an inch.
Oh well, I was expecting a trip to the driveline shop anyway....
The next step is really to get the transmission mount figured out.
I've got a standard polyurethane rear mount (which is actually attached to the adapter), which I was going to bolt to a home-built cross member, which would be hard mounted to the frame.
However, I'm also considering hard mounting the transmission to the cross member, and attaching the cross member to the frame with poly mounts.
The Novak adapter is pretty short, and the transmission and transfer case hang down quite a bit on either side. I have just enough room to fit a piece of 2" tubing through there, which would make access to a center mount pretty tight.
I'm leaning toward hard mounting the middle, with poly mounts at the frame.
With all the beautiful work being done by so many forum members, sometimes I feel bad by not digging in a little deeper... but when I bought this Scrambler, I wanted a "drivable" project, with minimal down time. So far, it's worked out pretty well.
At three weeks, this is the longest I've gone without driving it, and it's probably going to be another three weeks before it's ready to drive again (family vacation coming up). I'm getting a little antsy...!
After laying under the Jeep for a while this evening, I think I've figured out my cross member dilemma. I was too focused on having it run directly under the rear mount, which didn't leave much room to clear the transfer case.
As it turns out, there's a good bit of room to place it forward of the rear mount, and stick a mounting bracket off the back.
It will provide good protection for the transfer case, and will make an excellent framework for a skid plate, if I decide I want one.
It's amazing how much you can accomplish by doing nothing but looking (and maybe drinking a beer)!
I’m ALL ABOUT this. It’s the entire reason I haven’t dug into mine the way it truly needs done. I was forced not to have mine drivable long-term when a lady pulled out in front of me years ago, I used it as an excuse to do a bunch of upgrades at once but I still remember how much I absolutely hated not having it drivable for more than a year.
I marked and cut the 2x4 to match the outside of my angle brackets, then I notched the ends to slowly push it up as far as it would go.
I was able to push it up about 1-1/8" before it touched the bottom of the transmission... I'm good with that!
Now I need to notch the middle for a bit of transmission clearance. This little trick bought me 3/8", which is perfect!
I'm a little concerned about creating a weak spot right in the middle of my crossmember, but it will be reinforced by a 2x2x1/4 angle iron transmission mount (with a wider span than the notch) by the time I'm finished.
I welded up my notch, and did some fitting to set the crossmember in place. One cool thing, is that the frame tapers inward toward the front in this location, so I cut my crossmember a little wide so it was set too far back, then I just had to grind the ends until it slid forward to the spot I wanted.
You can see where I'm going to attach the transmission mount on the rear of the crossmember.
Also, make note of the bolt head to the left in the photo... that's the lowest point on the transfer case, and you'll see it again in the next photo.
Here's a shot underneath the Jeep, front to rear. This is very close to the crossmember, and you're seeing the 2" side. On top, you can see the front output yoke (yes, there's plenty of clearance for the front drive shaft). Below, you can see the rear drive shaft tied to the side. In the middle of the fat part of the rear drive shaft, just peeking below the crossmember, is a corner of the bolt head from the previous photo. You can see why I think this crossmember wil be a good base for a future skid plate... it clears everything!
Finally, an end shot. The total drop of this crossmember/transmission/transfer case is 2-7/8" below the frame, which is a good bit better than the 5-1/2" drop of the stock skid plate.
I'll weld end plates with approach and departure angles to tie up this mess.
It's 102 degrees outside, and even though my driveway is shady in the afternoon, I just can't do any more today.
Tomorrow I'll start early, and hopefully get this part wrapped up.
Can't wait until its running. I think its a good combo of motor, tranny, TC. I have a dauntless, with SM420 and only a Dana 18, but like that one as well, but that's in earlier stuff, came out of a 2a, now waiting to go into a early 5. Can't wait until you can give your first test run results. If you were closer, I would give your old tired 350 a new set of lungs.
Thank you! I'm getting pretty excited about it. The last major hurdle is figuring out how I want to route the passenger side exhaust over to the driver side. I've got an idea, but I need to see what kind of clearance I have with the front drive shaft.
I wish you were closer too, I need to get that old 350 out of my driveway! All the cutting/grinding/welding I did yesterday was done with that engine sitting right in the middle of my work space....
I put the cross beam in place this morning, tacked it to the frame mounts, and pulled the whole thing out to get it all welded up.
Just one more test fit to locate the transmission mount, and I should be able to get this thing wrapped up!
Finally, ready for paint! This photo isn't much different than the last, but it shows some of the equipment I've been using. Have I mentioned how much I LOVE my little plasma cutter? It's worth it's weight in gold!
Here's how the transmission mount turned out:
My Jeep is finally supporting it's own weight again!
It's nice to have this part of the project behind me.
What would I do differently, if I did it again? For starters, I'd use 2x3 angle for the frame mounts, instead of 2x2. That would have saved me from having to notch the ends of the cross tube for fitting, and from having to deal with those funky end caps... and it would only have cost 1/8" of ground clearance!
Oh well, it's done now, and I'm reasonably satisfied with the result. Have a great evening!
Well, it's been a long, hot, busy summer... and I'm seriously behind on my engine replacement!
I got a lot done today, though. I still need to clean up some of the wiring and hose routing, but for the most part it's pretty well put back together.
I'm really happy with the way the fan fits in the shroud. Before, it was way too far back.
Finding an upper radiator hose will be interesting... it needs to pass right through the alternator!
It finally looks like a Jeep again! I can't wait to drive it!
The last remaining hurdle is the exhaust. I think I can route the passenger side over the front drive shaft, then cross under between the bell housing and the transmission, and tie in to the driver side.
I'm still planning to use 2" for the y-pipe, the 2-1/2" the rest of the way... any last minute advice on that plan?