Meet Red, my 81 Restomod Build

Randyzzz

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Redmond
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Transfer case clocking- today’s project.

I am using a 3/4” thick clocking ring from Advance Adapters. This ring maintains the hub-centric support like the factory installation. First step was to clearance the three ribs on the 241c front bearing retainer.
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This is done so the clocking ring can fully seat. Here’s the area that interferes-
E39D77E3-23D2-4521-98EE-B100AE77ED14.jpeg
Then the ring can be bolted to the transfer case. I used some old Allen screws, saving the new ones for final installation. This is also a dry fit, once I pull everything apart for painting I’ll seal it all up.
4974FB05-49C4-481E-AEE0-0543F0B32ADD.jpeg
I marked approximately the degree from straight up that each position corresponded to.
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I started at the 20 degree position. I think I hit it on the first try! Looks good!
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From the bottom it hangs down about 3” and it should fit in the stock skid with the low hanging hump removed.
F666832E-EB88-4A3F-A035-D816D224C43C.jpeg
Time to check driveshaft clearances. Using a piece of pvc and an old retractable shovel handle. Looks good at ride height-
DF3D1F65-2199-49DE-9212-E5CDFF12EE7E.jpeg BA0C56BE-6845-4A11-A7C3-A6F47ED96B2E.jpeg
How about at full compression? I measured 4” up-travel before the pumpkin hits the A/C bracket. Moving the shaft upwards I have about 3 1/4” before the shaft gets close to the pan and the trans cooler lines. I’ll reweld the pinion snubber back on and lower the bumps a bit. 3 1/4” isn’t much, about the same as stock, but then this isn’t a rock crawler. This is where more lift becomes beneficial.
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Randyzzz

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Redmond
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The last thing to check is the clearance between the tub and the t-case. I made up a jig to represent the square tube support that runs alongside the tunnel. I have over 1/2” clearance. That will do. 75D3D0CC-4E01-4012-8E53-DC08113DD811.jpeg
One of the issues with most clocking rings is leakage. This is sometimes caused by the studs protruding from the backside of the casting. This keeps the ring from fully seating. The studs provided would have done just that. I scrounged through my bolt bins and came up with a winner. It’s just a bit shorter on the coarse side, and works perfectly on the 3/4” thick ring. A51E944D-14D1-4F53-AEF0-F0FB21B81C3F.jpeg
You can see how the shorter stud is just shy of the back of the casting. I have some 5/8 set screws on order, I’ll put them in the unused holes and fill the dimples with Rite Stuff to aid in making this a leak-proof installation. FAED9D64-C960-4083-8211-1083A037B906.jpeg 1A433FF7-BECE-4317-A21B-2C3D0762545C.jpeg
The shorter studs have plenty of thread sticking out of the nut side. This looks like a winner! CCBC8B1B-420E-444E-9615-A64E154B8BAA.jpeg
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
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City
OKC
State
OK
Looks great! I like your method of using set screws to prevent the clocking ring from leaking. I just filled them with silicon. Hard to tell from the pictures, but it seems like your 4l80 has more front driveshaft clearance than my 700R4 does. I used a Tom Woods 1.25" driveshaft. I would guess I have about 1/2" clearance at ride height.
 

Randyzzz

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Looks great! I like your method of using set screws to prevent the clocking ring from leaking. I just filled them with silicon. Hard to tell from the pictures, but it seems like your 4l80 has more front driveshaft clearance than my 700R4 does. I used a Tom Woods 1.25" driveshaft. I would guess I have about 1/2" clearance at ride height.
That dummy driveshaft is only about 1” in diameter but it has quite a bit of clearance. I’ll be using a 1.25” front shaft too. I am going to change the yoke out to the one you had mentioned just for the sake of getting a bit better angle. It places the pivot point back about another inch.
 

Randyzzz

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Here's a little illustration I found that shows how a clocking ring interfaces with the transmission or adapter. I thought of placing a seal at the location of the red arrow, but the surfaces are not parallel. The black arrow points to the actual hubcentric portion. It would be nice to be able to machine the bearing retainer for an o-ring here, but I doubt there is enough shoulder to make it work. I am planning to seal this area with some silicone in hopes that the transmission fluid will not bypass into the cavity behind the clocking ring. If it does I'll have the perimeter sealed up tight. cutaway.jpg This picture shows a seal between the blue casting and the green input- unfortunately on my ring the bore is 4" and I cannot find a seal with that OD and the proper ID.
 

Randyzzz

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Today’s project- reworking the exhaust. Clocking the transfer case up gave me the ground clearance I wanted, but unfortunately the exhaust no longer fit. I had to move the passenger pipe over a few inches, but there was still room. Not a lot, but enough. It looked better before, but this will work. Here’s a few pictures of the progress.
6BAA9970-A801-4C6E-B274-2D2FE85AFC25.jpeg 36CEAB90-B4B0-4B05-8F05-A16C084DAE2B.jpeg F6FB9F6B-A4DD-47AB-970E-965C3748D2A5.jpeg 6F413B1F-656E-43EA-8101-5D9C299DEEA8.jpeg
Tomorrow I’ll rework the displaced exhaust hanger, and then start on modifying the skid plate.
 

Randyzzz

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First order of business today was relocating the exhaust hanger. Piece of cake and the system is solid again with adequate clearance all around. 81845051-06DA-486B-97C8-A8075807A0EF.jpeg
Next task was modifying the skid. First step was cutting out the hump. From that point it was simply a matter of replacing the missing metal with 3/16 plate. Bent a lip on the rear edge too. It looks great from the bottom...
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I’ve been lacking in the picture taking department. I get working and don’t stop. Here is the finished product-
6D480219-8957-4C7D-B391-8CC89F338A76.jpeg 10F2C8B8-6210-49E9-BCBC-2C80C60D0998.jpeg D9930B91-839D-425B-AC7E-2E87414D25E2.jpeg 0F9C0736-DC7D-412F-82B3-AE2CBCDAB312.jpeg
I was able to use the stock plate by making a pair of 3/8” plates that use the rear two captured nuts, and I’ll add a third later. The plates make a ledge that the stock skid can then bolt to. 1D6A52C2-3E70-439E-828B-0C7E5E367464.jpeg
So on to the next step!
 

Randyzzz

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Today I replaced the front output on the transfer case. I had ordered a yoke online but when it arrived it was a strap style not a U-bolt style. Online descriptions vary as to what style you will get- but I don’t want straps so back it goes. I looked in my box of transfer case stuff and to my surprise I already had the correct one! A little paint and some emery cloth and it’s good to go! I used a SKF 21061 seal- it’s a transfer case double lip seal with a spring. Fit great and the yoke is in. DEE59460-90E7-4E5F-A94D-D55DC2668214.jpeg 457FAE24-CDBB-4274-908C-CF8C6B7C392C.jpeg

Now that I have a good base point, I attached an old front driveshaft to check clearances. Sduspilot mentioned he had minimal clearance and that got me worried. Well, he was right. One step forward and two back. With a real driveshaft in, my resting clearances were within a half inch at the front of the pan. Not good.

I was pretty disgusted and didn’t take any pictures. But obviously that won’t work. So...now I have to make some choices. With a bigger lift, there would be no problem. But that’s a no starter. I’m thinking my two choices are :

Clock the transfer case down one set of holes, and use the stock CJ skid plate. I have another skid so I will try that tomorrow. Hopefully that gives enough clearance. This option sucks though- I really loved the flatter skid I just built. My hope is that I can take an inch or so out of the stock hump. 🤞🏻

The other option involves a two piece front driveshaft with a carrier bearing. The additional mechanical complexity concerns me, but I would get to keep my flattened skid. I have to have a new shaft built anyways...and the shaft would be captured until it passes the trans pan, keeping it safe. Decisions, decisions.

If anyone has any thoughts or advice, please let me know!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
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Biloxi
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MS
Personally, I would stay away from the two piece driveshaft. I would clock the transfer case down a notch and reassess the situation.

A buddy of mine has a two piece front on his more hardcore off road rig, took a few tries to get it right. But, he had way more lift, so the angles were extreme.

I'm sure you could get a two piece front shaft to work, but it is a complication I would rather avoid unless I had no choice.

:shrug:
 

Randyzzz

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This morning I pulled the exhaust again and reclocked the transfer case a bit lower. Seems to do the trick- I can bolt the stock skid on with plenty of room, and using a floor jack and ratchet straps I have enough room for a stock size driveshaft. Lots of room? No, but enough. I could probably shave the skid an inch or so but this one has been powder coated so I think I’ll just leave it be.

On the bright side, I was able to remove the exhaust system in under 5 minutes. That makes me happy, especially if I need to service something in the future.

Difference- stock skid to flat skid. BF4228E3-0C69-4A36-9EE5-C7F9E0FCDA1C.jpeg

Stock skid clearance installed.
FC37BC0A-2537-45C1-B316-59B2AB24A28D.jpeg 7CB83E98-2935-440D-B5EC-206972540DD9.jpeg

Clearance in new lower position.
6BBDAB18-690D-4F7B-B760-EF25F851094B.jpeg E38C144A-4F07-44AC-8B44-3D0A2BDB2D93.jpeg

Driveshaft clearance with 1” space between axle and stock bump stop.
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View from the front “flexed”🤔
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So, I think I’ll live with this as it sits. This thing’s not a rock crawler or a flex mobile anyways. I wanted stockish, fast, and unique. I think I’m there so far. On to the next steps.
 
Last edited:

brentox

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Crestwood
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KY
Wow Randy I've got some/a lot of catching up to do. I haven't checked in in a few weeks. Been finishing up my engine, found a spun bearing and had to spend some time on it. Now I'm back on the Jeep. Your build is looking great!
 

Randyzzz

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Wow Randy I've got some/a lot of catching up to do. I haven't checked in in a few weeks. Been finishing up my engine, found a spun bearing and had to spend some time on it. Now I'm back on the Jeep. Your build is looking great!
Thank You! It's been somewhat easy getting stuff done with the "Stay Home" order. Not easy on the wallet, however... Spun bearing- Ugh!
 

Randyzzz

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RED ALERT! RED ALERT!

Yep! Literally a red alert! My friend, the guy who painted my VW bus, stopped by today to look at my son-in-law’s Bronco. He’s prepping it for paint. I asked him to take a look at my Scrambler and give me an idea of cost. Well, I guess this is a good time to get a paint job. He gave me a price that was in line with what I needed it to be, and then told me he could do it in two weeks! And that it would take only two to three weeks to finish!

He’s going to see how much materials cost, red isn’t a cheap color. But it needs to be done no matter what. He’s going to be doing all the prep work too!

Looks like I’ve got to kick it into turbo! I need to modify the crossmember, strip the doors, fill in the unnecessary holes in the firewall, and fix the funky weld on the cowl. But- looks like I’ll have a painted body ready by June! I’m going to be driving this summer!!!
 

Randyzzz

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Talk to me about bedliner. I have read the countless stories about bedliner issues- but all seem to go back to faulty installation. My original intention was to have the bed repainted and then making a bed mat for it. But my concern is that in dusty, gritty Central Oregon the bed mat will wear the paint off the ridges. And a bed mat does nothing to protect the sides from shifting cargo. This build is far from stock, so that doesn't really matter. I am also going to install a pair of those aluminum L-track aircraft seating/cargo rails to the bed floor front to back to secure a storage box. The bedliner would be tinted red to match, and professionally applied. Thoughts?

On the underside I will be using Resistall undercoating, a professional product that I have. In the cab I'll be applying Lizardskin under the carpet.
 

Scramblin Man

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Woodway
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Tx
It’s not bedliner but I have thought about using 3M Anti-Chip coating. It is paintable and the texture is more of an orange peel. Not as protective as a urethane bedliner but has a nice appearance. Probably going to use it in the floors and bed of the next re-paint. Look forward to seeing Red on the road.
 

Randyzzz

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Thank you! I look forward to driving it!
I’ve used the product you mentioned before. I think it’s great for rock chips but I’m concerned about gouging the bed paint or dents in the sides from the insides out. I want to be able to use it as a truck. I’m still not liking the bedliner idea but it seems to be the only choice.
 

jammer1

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Maple Hts.
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Oh
If they use a good epoxy primer, the a good urethane paint you should be good. Most bed liners are a urethane (a good bond and durable). Bedliner is a thicker coating and has a texture which makes it more durable. A bed mat would cover the abuse the bed would get, and a good epoxy will protect the metal from minor scratches. Even the bedliner can get deep enough scrapes that let water try to work under the bedliner. That's where epoxy shines.
 
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