Meet Rusty, 82 5.0 Build

STSFCTN

New member
City
Centennial
State
CO
#1
Hello I want to introduce myself to the forum. I recently purchased a 1982 Scrambler. I was a previous Classic Mustang guy and have restored one 1967 and resto-moded the another. So I am familiar with classic cars, PB Blaster, and the money pit factor.

The previous owner of the Jeep had named her Penny, I have since renamed her Rusty. This Jeep was driven hard and put away wet. It had a bumper sticker that read, if it works don’t fix it, and I should have known right there I was buying someone else’s problem. I thought this would be a good Winter project and I thought I was starting off with good bones since it did have a rebuilt 4.2l and t176. Once I got it in the garage did I learn it leaked from the engine, transfer case, diff, and both wheel seals. I began the complete demo taking it to the frame.
This is what I have done to date:
  • Sold the 4.2L
  • Bought a 1994 complete 5.0 engine and harness
  • Bought a Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual from Ford for a 94/95 Mustang
  • Bought the correct throw-out bearing from Novak, and a 5.0 bell-housing
  • Bought MORE mounts
  • Cut out the drivers floor
  • Completely gutted the tub and media blasted the bottom tub
  • Bought a super fantastic rear crossmember from CHIEFWAHO
  • Cut out the passenger side rear corner
  • Wired down the frame, cleaned out 5lbs of sand and rocks from the inside of the frame, etched it, primed it.

Here are my current hurdles
  • I have 4 body mounts that I need to cut out and reweld in new plates since they completely disintegrated with the slightest torque
  • The rear floor has some pin holes trying to find just a small floor skin, I don’t need a large replacement.
  • Learning how to incorporate the not so popular 94 Mustang harness
  • Determining if the all the accessories (including A/C and Smog Pump) on the new engine will clear the exhaust, the steering linkage, and brake proportioning valve.

Here are my Winter hurdles.
  • Taking apart the 5.0 Harness and marrying that to a new EZ wiring harness.
  • Getting the correct catalytic converter and emissions stuff taken care of
  • Dropping in the engine in hopes I don’t have to get new driveshafts made up.
  • Replace rear bearings, brakes, and seals on the AMC 20
  • Hydraulic clutch setup

Any help or comments are appreciated-
Kevin
 

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designerRob

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
Allen Park
State
MI
#2
It looks the your Jeep finally found the owner that will take good care of it. Nice job so far. 👍
 

cbford

Legacy Registered User
City
CLT
State
NC
#3
I have done this swap. Runs great.
Harness integration difficulty depends on how much electrical you want to be Ford and how much you want to leave as Jeep. If you just add engine harness while leaving the body harness Jeep it is 4 wires to tie together (plus power runs for your fuel pump/inertia switch and extra grounds you will need to keep EEC power stable).

In space terms, you may have problem with the power steering and A/C compressor locations for 1994 accessory set. The A/C is low on driver side, right? And I think the stock ford ps pump sticks out pretty far from head? Those may be an issue. In Jeep, your stock power steering lines, and lower radiator hose, and the bottom edge of inner fender all want some of that same space. But, the smog pump will be fine.
You can get the electric fan set for a Contour to use on stock radiator. Will bolt right to radiator mounts and works/looks like it was made for Jeep.

I used a set of f150 4x4 shorty truck headers (pace setter brand, CARB certified) for exhaust in combination with mechanical clutch linkage, fit fine. I ran full dual exhaust pipes with an H-pipe for balance.

Driveshafts will be a function of transmission you use and lift combination, and how liberally you plan to apply the gas pedal or do flexy offroad stuff. I spent $200 having my rear shortened 1.5" and adding longer sliding splines, and lengthening the front one 1 inch with longer slide splines.

Invest in drive flanges or 1 piece axle shafts for rear also. The 5.0 makes enough torque to cause problems on stock parts at floating end. If you add a traction device like a locker or strong posi, I would tell you to weld your axle tubes to the center section also. You will have plenty of power to twist them if you dont (ask me how I know).

Let me know what else I can help. I changed lots of stuff over the years....
 

cbford

Legacy Registered User
City
CLT
State
NC
#5
I did use the MORE mounts, good product. I also added their steering box brace kit, and their heavy duty shackle hangers.
Made a huge difference.
 

STSFCTN

New member
City
Centennial
State
CO
#6
I installed the mounts today. From the picture of the engine, I want to clean it up with the PS pump leak and will pull off that ps /ac bracket. Did you delete the AC and smog pump on yours? What are the 4 wires you mentioned in your original post that I need to wire?
 
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