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Meet Rusty, 82 5.0 Build

Dave The Sparky

Rebuilding my CJ8 very,very slowly...
Member
City
Halifax
State
UK
Looks like an MD Juan glove box, i threw the one that came with mine in the scrap and bought a plastic one as it wouldn't clear the heater assembly.
Now i am RHD so maybe it will fit a LHD but as its a mirror image i suspect not.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Looks like an MD Juan glove box, i threw the one that came with mine in the scrap and bought a plastic one as it wouldn't clear the heater assembly.
Now i am RHD so maybe it will fit a LHD but as its a mirror image i suspect not.
Thanks, that is what I am thinking as well. Once the heater is in I will see if I can modify it. What did you use as the latch assembly?
 

Dave The Sparky

Rebuilding my CJ8 very,very slowly...
Member
City
Halifax
State
UK
I only had an MD Juan dash as it came with the MD Juan body tub kit that i bought when building mine up but i was able to use my original 1981 dash board as it was still in great condition.
So sorry i cannot help you as I was able to use the original glove box door and latch in the original dash.

If it is an MD Juan product i would heavily recommend that you check all the holes are the correct shape/diameter and in the correct place by trial fitting everything first before doing anything with it.
It may throw up some surprises and wouldn't want you to ruin the paint later down the line.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
I have done this swap. Runs great.
Harness integration difficulty depends on how much electrical you want to be Ford and how much you want to leave as Jeep. If you just add engine harness while leaving the body harness Jeep it is 4 wires to tie together (plus power runs for your fuel pump/inertia switch and extra grounds you will need to keep EEC power stable).

In space terms, you may have problem with the power steering and A/C compressor locations for 1994 accessory set. The A/C is low on driver side, right? And I think the stock ford ps pump sticks out pretty far from head? Those may be an issue. In Jeep, your stock power steering lines, and lower radiator hose, and the bottom edge of inner fender all want some of that same space. But, the smog pump will be fine.
You can get the electric fan set for a Contour to use on stock radiator. Will bolt right to radiator mounts and works/looks like it was made for Jeep.

I used a set of f150 4x4 shorty truck headers (pace setter brand, CARB certified) for exhaust in combination with mechanical clutch linkage, fit fine. I ran full dual exhaust pipes with an H-pipe for balance.

Driveshafts will be a function of transmission you use and lift combination, and how liberally you plan to apply the gas pedal or do flexy offroad stuff. I spent $200 having my rear shortened 1.5" and adding longer sliding splines, and lengthening the front one 1 inch with longer slide splines.

Invest in drive flanges or 1 piece axle shafts for rear also. The 5.0 makes enough torque to cause problems on stock parts at floating end. If you add a traction device like a locker or strong posi, I would tell you to weld your axle tubes to the center section also. You will have plenty of power to twist them if you dont (ask me how I know).

Let me know what else I can help. I changed lots of stuff over the years....
Hey cbford, what upper and lower radiator hose did you use?
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Searched and found these hoses fit. Ironically they match the brackets I am using for a 95 E 150 Econoline.
 

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STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
1995 Ford Econoline E150/ 250 front brackets are really compact. And allow for the Saginaw pump.
 

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STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
I test fit the steering column and it slides barely under the PS pump. I doubt that I could ever put a body lift, if needed.
 

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STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
For the F150 m5r2 transmission, I found this skid plate as a Black Friday deal at Barnes 4wd. It came in 3days and it is beefy. I bought the extra support braced to weld but they are really not needed.
 

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STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
This is my current skid plate setup. It is too flimsy. There is a a lot of flex and my concern is that it will bounce up and down on a trail.
 

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Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
Is that a drain hole in each corner ? Hard to see in the picture for me.
 

cbford

Legacy Registered User
City
CLT
State
NC
Radiator and hoses.
My Scrambler has the "high capacity" radiator, the one with the cap on the left side, as opposed to the center cap location. This radiator is a couple inches taller than the standard, and has a 1.5 inch taller core, with slightly larger tanks are only differences I can see/measure.

Hoses I used for the Ford swap:
Gates 22484 upper
Gates 20573 lower
 

cbford

Legacy Registered User
City
CLT
State
NC
This is my current skid plate setup. It is too flimsy. There is a a lot of flex and my concern is that it will bounce up and down on a trail.
That looks like it hangs down farther than I would have thought it would. Is that just because of how tall the M5 tranny is? Did you measure the tilt angle of the engine to tranny assembly? And, I can't remember... did you have a body lift at all?
 
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