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My Aussie CJ8 Overlander

Bogged

CJ-8 Member
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Exhaust shop called me. They're having issues with trying to route the exhaust. The width of the rear truss and the lack of lift means there's no room for the pipes to go. It's got the crossover and then the muffler is half protected by the skid plate. Pics to come tomorrow when I can get to the shop.

AND it's got an exhaust leak from the broken manifold stud. It's the one right up against the firewall. It's a pig, I couldn't get the drill into it, so I might have to go to an engineering shop to get it out. For now, it's just straight out of the muffler. It's drivable, which is a god thing, so I can at least now try to work out if its vacuum leaking and from where (and not get gassed out every time I st art it up!)
 

Bogged

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Anyone have any idea on how to wire one of these columns up to a CJ harness?
1002_4wd_04+2006_jeep_wrangler_tj_unlimited+gauge_cluster.jpg
I have the column/airbag/key/barrell and some wiring.

To start, I just want the lights/flashers and wipers to work off the wheel. Not to sure on the airbag or how to remove the module and keep the cover yet, but that will come someday.
 

cj8py

Basic User
harness

Anyone have any idea on how to wire one of these columns up to a CJ harness?
View attachment 32019
I have the column/airbag/key/barrell and some wiring.

To start, I just want the lights/flashers and wipers to work off the wheel. Not to sure on the airbag or how to remove the module and keep the cover yet, but that will come someday.

the airbag module is located in another part of the vehicle, so, it wouldn't be a problem, you will have to use a multitester to find out wich cable does what.... once you get the hardware installed, post pics if you could to see what's going on, cheers.
 

Bogged

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Awesome!!!!

I got the exhaust done. Video to follow! Sounds awesome, but still need to fix the brakes. Very hard pedal and I can't lock the wheels.
 

jerseyjeeps

Crazy about AMC Jeeps
LIFETIME
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I meant to post this earlier when I saw your question I am a little late sounds like but here is how I did dual exhaust on an 83 CJ 7 by centering the gas tank to get the pipes inside of the springs. The pipe is all 2.5 " with 3" tips. The engine is a 5.7 with 4spd auto out of a 99 Tahoe.

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Bogged

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That was the idea, but me wanting to keep it low meant the rear truss/link bridge on the 60 was in the way on compression. As it is, I'm already at about 3.5" lift, but would like lower, but my coil overs will be on the bump stops!!!
 

certifiablejeep

Definitley Certifiable
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I meant to post this earlier when I saw your question I am a little late sounds like but here is how I did dual exhaust on an 83 CJ 7 by centering the gas tank to get the pipes inside of the springs. The pipe is all 2.5 " with 3" tips. The engine is a 5.7 with 4spd auto out of a 99 Tahoe.

View attachment 32126

View attachment 32127

View attachment 32128

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What are you doing with the e-brake cable... mounting it to the underside of the body? it will get a bit crispy sitting on the muffler ;)

cb
 

Bogged

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Ok,

Exhaust done, but it's only a twin system of 2"outlets. Bit miffed as to why he went 2"tube, but it's enough for me to pass inspection.
Fixed the non working right rear lights- Plug was undone. BUT now, the indicators don't work on either side, but the hazzards do. But the right side's brake light flashes as well and when the lights are on, the brake light flashes!!! WTF???

Engine dies when you floor it. I'm thinking timing may be out? but which way?
Brakes are still hard, like there's no assistance at all. No vacuum leaks that i can tell.
Engine is a bit tappy- and the trans needds the 2 seals on the shift levers replaced, but it's a p[ig of a job where it is! ARGH!!!
 

Bogged

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Plop... All my photos got moved!




On 35's


Panhard mount tied into the coilover mount.


Panhard mount diff side.


New steering box brace.


Rear coilover at full-ish stuff
 

Bogged

CJ-8 Member
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Got some hydraulic bumps for the front.

Has anyone done a similar diff swap/link setup? I have no place to put the bump cans as the diff truss is in the way on the LHS. I could do what 3 shooter has done and eliminate the truss and use the RHS as the upper mount, but the pumpkin is still in the way.

I could out board the bumps, by about 4 inches to hit the old spring perch, but then I need to brace it back upwards. I also don't have much uptravel as I'm trying to keep it under 2 metres high. The idea of the hydro bump was to act like a secondary shock and stiffen the compression. But there's just no room to mount them.

I also think I need to move my coilover diff mounts further down (Back of the diff) as I only have about 3" uptravel on a 14" travel shock!!
 

Bogged

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late night test run.. For some reason the pic keeps getting moved!!!


Maxing out a LOOONG floor jack And speed holes!






First try at a custom dash (the switches that is. The PO did the radio butchery! Need to cut that whole section out and the fresh air vent to fit the new combo heater A/C unit and ducts. Going to build it out of the dash into a centre console with the shifter and twin sticks.




Wide???


You can see the new front crossmember/bumper.


Steering box brace.

 

Bogged

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Trying to fit the bump


The upper CA mount is in the way of the bump polacement.


I could mount them inside the frame rail, but as i don't have any uptravel, I'm kinda fubar. UNLESS I mount it to the coilover hoop and make a raised bump pad.


The UCAM is inline with the chassis rail at ride height, moving to the right of picture when compressed.

You can see how much up travel I have. If I cut the CO mount off and move it down the axle tube to the rear, It will have more up travel and open up a space for the bump pad, but as you can see, the bump can would mount directly over the pumpkin bracing. I could make a bump pad off the spring pad and raise it slightly.

Thoughts?
 

Bogged

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I removed the bridge and the upper mount on the passenger side. Got the cans mounted in there, but I need to build a bump pad for them. The lower coilover mounts will move probably tomorrow IF i can get to some flat ground.
 

Bogged

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Got the bump burnt in:







I probably could have mounted the can lower, but I'm trying to keep the ride height down and this way, I can make a bump pad for the stop top hit. Also need to cut the CO mount off the diff and rotate it back around to the back side of the diff. I've run out of up travel WAY before the hydro bumps!

Got the Great Lakes Offroad Disc swap kit-
Ran into some hurdles:




I don't know if I'm missing something here, but the disc will not clear the caliper the way it is. The rotor doesn't fit over the drive flange of the axle, so I'm going to have to lathe it down to fit. I don't want to take any more meat from the insode of the rotors. (I'll try to grab a pic.) but it's on;y a small amount that needs to be clearanced.
 
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