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My Aussie CJ8 Overlander

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Am I correct in saying that the J20 Front disc is the same as the 1975 Chevy K20 front discs? Rockauto has a common part number, but I'm not sure why mine are not offset enough or the bracket needs spacers or what.
 

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Ok,

Got the brakes to kinda work. I can squeal the tyres, but I think I need a pro portioning valve. I have to push the pedal to more than halfway down in order for it to bite. The top half of the travel is very light, like you're taking up slack.

Got her passed for rego, just need to get some money to rego her now!

Coilover diff mounts moved,
New coils on order (when I can afford to send the originally incorrect ones back)

I think I need 3 inch bumps, not 4 for my height. I'm trying to keep it low but with 35s it's proving difficult. I've already cut the guards and raised to flares, that gave me some much needed clearance, but still might have to go up.

Need a longer Nissan pitman arm. The stock go is too short resulting in too large a turning circle.(about 1" from the turning stops)

Redo the paint, possibly properly or at least stripped back and rattle canned properly.

Front shaft needs to be made.

Find out what is clinking when I brake - not sure if the RE joints are fun ar or the trans/engine is moving.

Wire up a speedo- the autometer gauge is either faulty or I haven't done the wiring for the elec speedo sensor correctly.

Fix the holes in the jeep.

Fix the a/c unit- means I'm going to cut the middle of the dash out and make a centre console to house the twin sticks, shifter and air vents f/r.

Redo the linings. No headlining, so I'm going to make one up.

Redo the doors- making standard cj fulls doors fit as the world cab door seals are no longer available

The that should be it! Besides a little tinkering here and there. Possibly an engine rebuild as its really tappy when cold. That or swap kin a chev/ t700 combo.
 

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Well, the 360 is limping around on what seems like 6 cylinders! It has a few vacuum leaks I think which is what could be causing the misfire, but I have oil in the exhaust tips... SO...

I'm thinking of getting a holden V6 (buick v6) and T700 and chucking it in as 2 wd until I can afford to get the adapter kit and driveshafts made up.

Cost wise- Holden V6 plus trans ecu loom etc ~$800-1000 AUD. Adapter ~$6-700 delivered.

Rebuild the 360- ~$8-900 for heads from summit plus $200 del (Cam is another $200)
Cost of rebuilding it- ???
Sorting out the Auto issues-???

Looks like its the V6!

On the plus side, I managed to score some TJ half doors- Got them to fit without too much trouble though I did break 3 t40 bits, One was an Impact T40 (1/2")
Fit quite well, but waiting on uppers to see how much strife I'm getting into!!
 

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Would a leaking manifold/exhaust cause a lack of power?
Is there anything I can do to lessen the oil past the rings or am I up for a rering? Asking because the v6 is a 6-8 hour return journey!
 

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Update...

Got it moved to my girlfriends place. Got a good running 360/727 that's going to be swapped in. Fitted tj half doors and uppers. Just need to work on the latching mechanism and the Weather seal.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
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Love the overland tops. A 360/727 should make a good combo. Speaking of the top, aren't the overland top upper openings shaped differently than TJ half door uppers?
 

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Just trying to scrounge to pay for an 8724 winch and a set of h2 wheels and tyres. Then 8stud trailer hubs and build my jeep trailer.
 

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Anyone know which antirock I need for the front? Will a yj one fit or am I etter off going the universal? I currently have a 44" which is way too long for the front, but pretty much perfect for the rear.
 

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Got an art Carr shifter.. Fitted it all up got really excited. Went to shift it and..... Due to the design of the cable brackets, it uses a bell crank. This ell cracks k won't work with a flipped Dana 300 cable twin stick. The throw on the cable is huge!!! I'll try to get some photos. I removed the d300 front shift bracket and can now get 1st to n. Then it hits the rear shifter.

Has anyone modified their cable to go parallel to the drive line instead of across the back of the pan? I'm thinking of using the original bracket or modifying the original to work.

Ideas?
 

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I have a rockhard tyre carrier, but no bumper and it looks like they won't sell me a bumper either. Does anyone have any contacts where I could buy the bumper only? Failing that, I'd need the dimensions on the hinge spindle.

Thanks.
 

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Does anyone have a pic of the driver's chassis rail in particular the fuel lines down that side? Which is the fuel return line (not running the charcoal cannister.)

Thanks.
 
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