Ol' Brown finally getting the treatment it deserves. Fatcaaat's Jeep Rebuild Thread

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#21
Looking for some advice on which way to go regarding rear bumper with my Scrambler. I have not purchased anything for it yet, but would like to get it in hand before I proceed with any painting of the frame.

My jeep will be used only for very mild offroading...I don't suspect I'll ever really need tow hooks and I'm not really into building a "poser". That said, from a bumper perspective, I plan on reusing the front stock bumper. Out in the back, I have those little bumperettes, which I do kind of like, but at the same time I do need to set this up to tow. I need something that will do a class 3 hitch setup, which might be overkill, but that's what I am looking for. This means that it will have to be bolted integral to the frame I surmise and I hope that whatever I purchase can double as both the rear bumper and the hitch/receiver.

Anyone have any thoughts or recommendations? I have been searching but I cannot find things that go with my 20gallon stock tank. If anyone has done this or has leads it would be greatly appreciated.
 

barrys

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
East Norriton
State
PA
#22
Alot of bumpers have 2" receivers but are not rated to tow or not much at all. It is to cover their (manufactors) butt if somebody does something stupid while towing.

I have used a trailquest on on a 7 witha 20 gallon tank. Fit but was a pain to install. Currently have a Big Daddy Offroad on my 7 with 15 gallon tank. Should fit an 8 with a 20 gallon. It is a nice bumper. Both have tire carriers.

Sent from my SM-J320P
 

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#23
Well, the frame is clean and ready for some final prep before applying the POR 15. Here is what I did to get it all nice and ready. The frame was completely dry between each step after the power wash.
1. I power washed it to remove any loose paint, scale, dirt, and what not.
2. I hit it with a a can of engine brite degreaser and let it soak in good
3. I power washed it again\
4. I applied a nice, thick coat of Aircraft Stripper all over the thing and let it bubble up good
5. Powerwash and inspect - it got about 90% of all the paint off
6. Applied another coat of aircraft stripper all over
7 Powerwash and inspect - got about 98% of all the paint off
8. Applied aircraft stripper in places that paint was still sticking
9. Powerwash and inspect - 99% of all paint is gone
10. Flipped the frame over and made sure I got the underside good and coated anything left with aircraft stripper
11. Powerwashed a final time and I say 99.9% of all paint is gone.

I plan on running a knotted wire wheel over the entire frame to remove any trace spots of paint as well as remove any scaley rust left, which there wasn't much to begin with.

I do have some damage to the rear left body mount, which will need to repair. It looks like that rusted out there. I assume I will just make a plate and weld it in from underneath...Anyone have another idea for that? Should I cut it out and weld in a new piece or plate it? I have another mount that is questionable right at the hole...again, I think I can make a plate and weld it in from the underside. Everything else looks very solid which made me a happy man!
 

zr10054

Car and Gun Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Gonzales
State
La
#24
I have a 20 gal Genright tank and this bumper which I think was made by Olympia. It's 3/16 steel and will tow anything the 8 is capable of.
 

Attachments

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#25
The frame is now prepared and I can move foward with painting it. I went ahead and sprayed it down with the metal prep from POR15 to put that zinc phosphate coating on it. So it looks pretty good at this point and I am ready for the POR15 coating.

The rear had both of its body mounts needing repair. I ended up just plating the section with same thickness of metal and I will drill the holes back out.

As for the bolts that broke off, I was successful in removing two of them pretty easy. The other two are out, but they no longer have the nut or whatever on the inside of the frame. Any ideas of what I should do for that?
 

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#26
i'm unable to post pictures in this thread for some reason. It does not give me the option to manage attachments when I reply. Am I missing something? I read the FAQ and I don't get any options as described...only quick reply and advanced...and neither allows me to attach something.
 

gr8dain

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Ashburn
State
VA
#27
Are you trying to upload a picture from a computer or trying to add a link to a picture hosted by a website like photobucket or imgur? If you are not using a picture hosting site, try that and copy and paste the img link into your post.
 

jammer1

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Maple Hts.
State
Oh
#28
I didn't catch which bolts broke off (that you lost the nut that's inside the frame). What you can do is cut a piece of 1/8" flat stock steel that is approx. 1 1/4" wide by 2 to 2 1/2". Drill a hole slightly larger than the bolt. Spot weld a nut over the hole. Slide this in the frame to where the bolt needs to go. Steel will hold the nut solid. I've done this with the power steering mount and also skid plate nuts. works well.
 

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#29
Are you trying to upload a picture from a computer or trying to add a link to a picture hosted by a website like photobucket or imgur? If you are not using a picture hosting site, try that and copy and paste the img link into your post.
Im trying to upload a picture through the manage attachments. I don't have an image hosting area. If I have to do that to post pictures, I guess I can do that then post the links. Just want to make sure I do it right.
 

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#30
I didn't catch which bolts broke off (that you lost the nut that's inside the frame). What you can do is cut a piece of 1/8" flat stock steel that is approx. 1 1/4" wide by 2 to 2 1/2". Drill a hole slightly larger than the bolt. Spot weld a nut over the hole. Slide this in the frame to where the bolt needs to go. Steel will hold the nut solid. I've done this with the power steering mount and also skid plate nuts. works well.
This is a great idea and should work out perfect. Thanks...
 

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#31
I got all my parts back from powdercoat, purchased the warrior rear bumper which is a class 3 hitch (awesome) and have everything ready to start reassembly except 1 thing...the front axle is not done. I cannot get it apart. I need to replace the ball joints and the u joints and I cannot get the dumb thing apart. I am stuck at the spindle...I cannot get it off. It is loose but no dice. I also cannot get the nut off the lower ball joint for the steering knuckle to come off. I suppose that might be easier if I can get the spindle off.

Is there any trick or what to get the spindles off? I assume that if I get the spindle off, I will be able to yank the axle right out. I am pretty fed up with it at the moment and would much rather take it somewhere at this point.
 

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#32
Still to this day I cannot post pictures. However, I am pleased I am getting things back together. Engine is back and installed, accessories bolted back on. I added the JeepAir compressor up there. Tank back in, axles rebuilt and assembled. At this point, I just need to run the new stainless brake lines and then run the fuel lines and the drive train is pretty much done.

I am also researching exhausts. I want a full stainless exhaust that bolts to my borla header. Any thoughts there?
 

jmarkel

Scrambled for Life
City
Fairfax Station
State
VA
#33
At some point I"m going to figure out how to post pictures. This thread would be a heck of a lot more interesting, that's for sure.

Right now i'm left with routing the brake, fuel, and vent lines on the chassis. I purchased a coil of stainless line and will take that stainless from the tank to the transmission cross member where the filter and FI pump sits, than plum more stainless up to the front with a short run of FI hose. ON the return, I'll also run stainless. For the vent to the charcoal cannister, I assume I could get away with rubber fuel line, but I should have enough stainless left that I may as well run that. Once these are done, the drive train should be complete.

I ended up having to make up new brackets for the power steering pump and a custom bracket for my idler so the serpentine belt setup works correctly. I'm very pleased with the results and I can now just purchase future belts in 84" length. Speaking of power steering, I also replaced the pulley with a dorman version that was about 3% smaller on the diameter. Closest I could find that would work. I upgraded to a PSC pump anyway so this should certainly improve my overall steering. I also opted for the Boyenson shaft update...this is night and day over the stock original, that's for sure!
 

Kim Dawson

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
Molalla
State
Or
#34
I went years not knowing how to post pictures. When you reply to a thread, there's a little picture, 3rd one from the right, that says "insert image" when you mouse over it. Click on it and go to your pictures on your computer, find the picture you want, double click on it to get it to the thread, and then click where it says to to keep it. Most people talk about how to get the pictures off their phone (I still don't know how to do that) but it's not so hard from the computer.
 

bigwalton

Picture cravin' AK Postal nut
Staff member
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
#35
Nice to see you back on here and updating the thread. The Borgeson steering shaft is definitely a nice piece!

At some point I"m going to figure out how to post pictures.
As a free user, you can only link to photos posted elsewhere online (and Photobucket is no longer an option unless you pay their subscription fee for remote linking.) Adding photos as attachments directly to your thread is a benefit of paid membership here. Membership is only $30 a year, less than a tank of gas, and it helps us keep the "lights on."

Here's the link to the paid membership options:
http://www.cj-8.com/forum/payments.php
 
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