Project ScrambleD-J

City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#1
I joined the site a while back and thought I’d start a build thread. I’m building a Scrambler sized Jeep with a stretched wheelbase and a “slightly” beefed powertrain. If you have any specific questions by all means ask. If I know the answer I'll give it, if not, I'll say that. This is not a high dollar build. I am price shopping, swapping, scrounging, and fabbing as cheaply as I can and still meet my end goal of a sledge-hammer reliable, low slung DD that can hit the interstate or any trail I want to go down. Its not going to be a rock crawler or mud machine, just a HD, comfortable, all-rounder.

I knew I wanted a 4BT rig several years ago and bought an '02 super low mileage recon P7100 pumped 4BT out of an International MT35 box truck. i later bought a ZF S5-42 and NP205 from a local guy whom I'd sold some Early Bronco parts. Early Broncos were my passion for a couple of decades and that is influencing many aspects of this build. I tried to find an EB for this build but no dice. So I started looking for a Jeep. I searched CL/Ebay/local paper, and auctions for 6 months looking for something that struck my fancy. One day I found an intriguing ad for a CHEAP CJ-7-it wasn't perfect by any means but i figured I'd buy cheap and get a f'glass tub for it. I began with a rusted out '86 CJ-7 Laredo. It came with loads of NOS parts as the PO's father worked for AMC during the Mopar take over and had access to lots of things becoming "obsolete". A couple days after buying this CJ a buddy of mine found out and we did some horse trading and I ended up with a pretty pristine YJ Wrangler body and he got the CJ, YJ driveline, and some cash.
 

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#2
Sounds like an interesting project. What are you thinking of ending up with, body wise? Stretch the Wrangler body? We need some pics!
 

twiisted71

Basic User
City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#3
Let's see if this works:

I don't want to post the same things the other diesel swaps on this site have already covered. Here's a few pictures with brief descriptions to whet the appetite. If anyone has specific questions, please ask. Like the rest of you I love talking about my toy with others sharing my passion
I'm going to have a CJ8 length tub with a front and rear wheelbase stretch. Tube fenders to cover the fullwidth axles and 37" tires while trying to keep the Jeep as low as possible.
The CJ7 Laredo I began with


The YJ body I’m now using for a basis of this build



Engine in place



Front shot with DJ5 grill, fiberglass CJ7 hood and fender


Front axle--'77 F150 housing with '78 F250 outers


Rear axle----'04 GM AAM 11.5" with 3.73 gears and G80 locker with 40K miles.


H1 double beadlocks with 37” GoodYears. Stripped and painted in ‘70s Ford Almond wheel color


Front frame mods underway with 3x3x.25” tube and 3-4” front axle stretch. The rear will get between 10 and 14” stretch as well.


I’m intending to use this gas tank from a ’98 Grand Cherokee for its sloping bottom and extra capacity.
 
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twiisted71

Basic User
City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#4
I feel as though I have a free hand in whatever route I choose to take this build since it isn't an original Scrambler. If it were I'd probably build it back as tiny as they came and put in a Kubota or similar 2-3L diesel for driving and keep a bone stock rebuilt gasser ready to drop in for the off chance that I ever decided to sell her. I was into the Early Bronco hobby for years and it killed me to see someone take an original uncut example in good condition and lift it, chop out the fenders, cage it, etc, etc. It was like if you are going to modify one that much just start with a basket case that was beyond any realistic chance of restoration anyway. Maybe other parts of the country are different but living anywhere along the Gulf coast its impossible to find any of the old iron that hasn't been claimed or heavily infected by the rust virus. That is why I didn't feel right about using the parts I listed in the classifieds in this build. I don't care for black or leather due to the heat it gives off down here, and I know there are others needing some nice parts to put together an up trim level restoration.
For the direction of this build it is ultimately going to be my daily driver with the ability to be used like a regular vehicle but retain the capability of returning decent mileage and putter off on all but the more extreme trails I might come across.
 
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twiisted71

Basic User
City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#5
Here is a shot of my ZF S5-42 Ford transmission and NP205 Ford transfercase. The TC hasn’t been rebuilt as of yet but I did just get my rebuild kit in!


This is the difference in the 35” tires that come on an H2 compared to the 37” tire on an H1. Never assume anything when it comes to tire sizes!!


I’m using the steering box from a late ‘70s Ford F150 4x4 because it mounts the pitman shaft “outside” the frame and orients the pitman arm so that it faces forwards and will then rotate the same as the knuckles, thus maintaining draglink geometry thoughout the swing. I rebuilt then drilled and tapped the box for hydro-assist if needed later on.


Here is the only rust I have to deal with on the Wrangle tub! Both sides under the windshield hinges have a small hole. This seems to be such a common area for this problem I don’t know why the aftermarket hasn’t come up with a patch panel yet.


Here is why I built the hybrid axle instead of keeping the leaf sprung F250 piece in stock configuration. These cast iron radius arms don’t flex as much as a new 4 link or soft leaf springs but they are super simple to set-up and they don’t bend/snap near as easily as leafsprings on the front end especially of using a stock forward shackle design.
 

twiisted71

Basic User
City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#6
Speaking of the front axle, I went with the Ford Dana 44 because I was familiar with them and they offer a high pinion as well as flat-top knuckles on the F250 version. Also the F250 knuckles’ arms are quite a bit higher than any other Dana 44 or GM 10 bolt versions.

Here’s my knuckles after Parts Mike milled, drilled, and tapped the passenger side for high steer (just in case). I figured I’d just as soon have it done while everything was apart and awaiting rebuild than to find out after all was assembled that I wanted to run high steer. Bolts are just in place to keep threads clean. I put Spicer ball joints back in at this time too.



New 3.73 gearset from Motive


Spartan locker installed in carrier


Stock axle shafts with new Spicer joints. Replaced stub shafts due to having been ran without spindle bearings in a past life. Since it is a DD I didn’t upgrade to CrMo shafts. I’ve not broken a shaft (knock wood) and I’ve had some pretty hot motors running 33s and 35s and didn’t cut them any slack in my younger days.


Fully assembled. I have those ratty looking lockouts in place for the build. When done I have a couple sets of NOS lockouts I’ll use.



The rear axle I haven’t touched. Other than cleaning and painting. It is an AAM 11.5” from an ’06 Duramax that was driven into a gatorhole and nosedived resulting in hydrolocking the engine with around 40K miles. It is disk braked, 8 lug, with a G80 locker and the 3.73 gearing I was after. The G80s in these axles is reputed to be uber strong unlike the smaller versions used in other GM axles that earned it the unsavory moniker of a Gov-Bomb locker. It seemed like a good operational design for a daily driver. Time will tell.
 
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twiisted71

Basic User
City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#8
Thanks. Its been a long project. I'm hoping to make some progress the next couple months and get her into a roller at the length I want. I have so much time/money into it that I really want it able to be moved by this hurricane season in case we need to evacuate.
 

twiisted71

Basic User
City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#9
I try to pass along tips to others with the same rigs as myself especially if its a common problem. Jeep seating comfort seems to be a universal complaint among CJ, Yj, and TJ owners. I know many suggest the Cavalier/Sunbird seats but if like me you are over 6' and #200 those seats just don't "fit". After an afternoon in the local junkyard I found a donor vehicle that is NEVER picked over for project parts yet had some of the most supportive/comfortable buckets out there for "fullsize" owners! Ford Windstar minivans have an inherent problem with their transmissions that struck them very early resulting in huge numbers of extra low mileage units in nearly every junkyard. They have great side bolster support without being so "deep" that they are difficult to slide over into, which can be a hassle with tall vehicles.

 
City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#16
Welded spring towers and trackbar mounts in fully. Painted all new/raw steel. Re-assembled steering linkage, mocked up coilovers, mounted tires, and set it at intended ride height!
Pretty happy with how things have ended up. Don’t let those TV shows fool ya. Setting all this stuff up was a major PITA







 
City
Cape Coma
State
fl
#20
Here is a few shots of my brake and clutch components. I’m trying to use and build things so that in the future replacement of wear items can be done with readily available items. Also trying to design things so they won’t need any modifications
Astro Van Hydroboost
CPP Adjustable Proportioning Valve/Distribution Block
’78 Corvette Brake Master
Wilwood 7/8 Clutch Master

Also a couple pictures showing Fender lines in relation to Shocks and towers.










 
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