Randyzzz Scrambler Restification Thread!

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#1
PREFACE_ Originally the pictures in this thread were hosted on Webshots. Well, those bums decided to close the site down, change the name, etc. Lost the majority of the pictures. I Have attempted to rebuild this thread with all the pictures that I can find. So if for some reason some of them seem out of order...now you know why.

Finally! After over a year without driving, working on, or doing anything but harvesting parts....I started the new year out right by starting on the "restification" of my Scrambler. A little background first...it's an 82, and I am the second owner. No rust, and no body damage (when I bought it). I started out by replacing the 4 popper with a 350 SBC. Did alot of other mods, including a 4" lift by Superlift, and incrementally getting up to 36" tires. Then...I twisted the center section out of the rear AMC20, replaced it with a mismatched D44. Next the SBC cracked a head, I still drove it after a lucky dose of block sealer. The final straw was twisting the tailshaft off the T176 trans. It was pushed into the back yard, and served as a parts source for the Jeepster I was working on. Well, the Jeepster is now my daily driver...and the Scrambler is finally getting the attention it deserves. Here's a pic of the Scrambler when bought it...


And here's how it looked midway....



And here's how it looked just after the trans died...



So...here's the plan. I want to build a capable, yet smooth riding trail rig. Plenty of power, fair MPG. No rockcrawler- I want the body to stay cherry. My physical condition (and my doctor) have limited any hardcore off-roading because I have 2 discs in my neck that are crushed, and any severe twisting or bouncing could lead to loss of use of my right arm. :( So...here goes!! :jeep:
 
Last edited:

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#2
Oops....way big picture! Anyways...you all have read that I got the Scrambler into the Garage last week...:thumbsup: I also scored some sweet retro mags-
15X10 western Bullets for $50.00, and another 4 36" Swampers for $125.00!:thumbsup:




And, from my personal Waggy parts yard, I pulled a set of HD 7 leaf front springs, and a set of standard front 7 leaf springs.



The Waggy 7 leafs are about the same length as Yj springs, or CJ rears. The 7 leaf HD springs have 10" free arch, the standard ones have 8" free arch. The Superlift rears on the Scrambler had 8" free arch. They were also stiff as a board...and the Waggy springs are super flexy!

My plan was to use the standard Waggys SUA in the rear, and the HD Waggys SUA in the front. After trying the standards SUA (same as a 2" lift- too short), and the HD leafs SUA (same as the 4" lift I took out- still too short), I found the right combo- the standard leafs SOA. They sit almost flat when loaded, have tons of droop, and are so supple! Here's some pics. The axle is a Waggy HD 20. I may use it, or go with the disc brake Isuzu Corporate rear. More on that later. The shackle angle still needs some work, but overall I'm pleased. Heck, I'm grinning from ear to ear!





 

Attachments

Last edited:

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#3
So...on to the front. The original plan was an SUA Waggy D44, outboarded springs, with the shackles to the front. (I was going to copy BigWalton's setup- I like how it looks.:thumbsup: ) But now that I have gone to the SOA side, I have some decisions. I have at my disposal a Chev D44 with factory SOA pads, a Waggy NT D44 axle factory SUA, and several drivers side drop Waggy D44's.

I could...

1- Weld SOA perches on the Waggy NT D44, outboard the springs, and go high-steer.

2- Narrow the Chev axle to Waggy width, outboard the springs, and go High steer.

3- Narrow the Chevy axle so I don't have to outboard, go high steer, and hope the driveshaft isn't too close to the 700R4 pan.

Option 1 I can do all the work myself using all stock parts. Options 2 and 3 will take axle resplining, and housing narrowing, which I would probably farm out. I like option 3, no welding on my virgin frame, but I'm worried about the driveshaft. I know it's all overkill for how I'll be using it, but who cares! I want the satisfaction of looking at it and saying "Yeah, that's what I'm talking about:thumbsup: "

Let's hear your opinions/input.

Here's a pic of how it sits right now...(this is SOA on Superlift 4" lift springs, using a 2wd XJ front axle. It should sit about an inch lower with the Waggy springs SOA.)

 
Last edited:

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#4
Progress report. I scored a free D44 front housing, already narrowed to Waggy width, drivers side drop. Set up for SUA. After much contemplation, I have decided to stay SUA for street driveability reasons. So...I bit the bullet and ordered a set of RE4.5 springs. While waiting for them to show up, I decided I might as well pull the engine. It's alot easier without the front clip on. Out with the basically stock 350. It's replacement...a throttle body injected, 9.5-1 350- spec'd out to be 300 horse, 350 ft lbs torque. I'll post some pics of that bad boy after I put the externals on.



That's all for now...I'll update as I make progress.
 
Last edited:

bigwalton

Picture cravin' AK Postal nut
Staff member
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
#6
jeepdad said:
Totally and I mean Totally Awesome, I love that stance.:thumbsup:
How'd I miss this thread???? That's the perfect Scrambler stance (obviously I have to say that :D)

Those wheels just ROCK!!! I love that look! I don't know that I've ever seen those. Definitely my favorite non-wagon wheel wheels on a CJ.

Love seeing the progress. Do you need to outboard in front now with this new axle? I have the cardboard templates for my outboarding plates out in the garage and I think I actually know where they are in all the boxes :thumbsup: Let me know...

Keep up the work and the pics!
 

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#7
Thanks for the compliments! It'll probably sit a little different with the RE 4.5 springs, but I'm hoping it will be close. I may have to put a 1" body lift in- it needs new mounts anyways.

I love the wheels too- I've had them on a couple other trucks in my past. I have 9 of them- and 8 matching Swampers...the Scrambler will have 4 with a matching spare, and then I'm going to build a Jeep body based trailer with 2 and it's own matching spare. That should look pretty cool- a matching Scrambler and trailer, with all the same wheels and tires!

I got lucky on the axle- I don't need to outboard! I ran the BOM- it's a D44 from a early 80's J10/J20. It's narrowed on the long side only, so it will end up 60" WMS-WMS, and I won't have any problems with the tires rubbing on the springs. Not bad for free!:thumbsup: Even better, using a drivers side drop, the pinion enters the case on the left side, so there won't be any clearance issues with the trans pan. I'm going to start with a 231c hd transfer case with a SYE. ('cause there's one sitting in my parts shed) If that doesn't work I can still flip the 300. Trying to stay within budget for now...I'm trickling goodies onto EBay to help pay.
 

bigwalton

Picture cravin' AK Postal nut
Staff member
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
#8
OOOH, have you seen the crawl boxes that you can make with a 231? Box4rox or MadRooster. Here's a good thread: linky

In my dream DD/trail Scrambler, there's a 4.6 stroker to an AW4 with the aw4shitfting auto/manual shifter and one of those crawl boxes in front of a clocked D300 :thumbsup:

I had a 231 for this too, but I left it sitting in the rest of my parts XJ in NC :banghead: (no other choice... hmmm, need to try to get that thing to someone who can use it).

BTW, the trailer idea makes me just drool... I want a trailer for mine and that's how I'd like to do it, matching axle/tires/wheels.
 

Grantshire

Legacy Registered User
City
Richmond
State
VA
#9
Nice going Randy! The Scrambler is looking good.

I am running a narrowed WT FSJ axle up front:



and an 87 FSJ centered Dana 44 in back:



My tires are 35x12.50x15 Goodyear MT's on 8" rims in front and 10" in back (keeps my tires are even). I have a total of 6" of lift: 4" custom Alcans (2.5" wide springs but front is CJ length), 1" body lift, & 1" shackle lift. I really like the way it rides and handles. However, if I had it to do over, I would not use conversion shackles (2" CJ to 2.5" springs); don't like the way they shift.

FYI, with the Dana 44 up front you will need to slide your steering box forward, I used one of the M.O.R.E. mounts on mine, and will still have issues with the pitman arm. I ended up using all the FSJ stuff but with a CJ tie rod end on the drag link.
 

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#11
Grantshire said:
N However, if I had it to do over, I would not use conversion shackles (2" CJ to 2.5" springs); don't like the way they shift.

FYI, with the Dana 44 up front you will need to slide your steering box forward, I used one of the M.O.R.E. mounts on mine, and will still have issues with the pitman arm. I ended up using all the FSJ stuff but with a CJ tie rod end on the drag link.
I'm going to build new front hangers, I didn't like the idea of conversion hangers either. Plus, I had the Slickrock hangers before, and my shackle tops rubbed on the frame crossmember- so I'm spacing my new hanger down 3/8".

As for the steering, I'm going to see where it ends up. I just sent the passenger side knuckle out for machining for a crossover high steer arm just in case. I pretty much figure I'll have to move the box...but how do the PS lines fit? Looks like the rear line will come out in the flange of the crossmember.:confused:
 

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#12
That's one of my favorite pics... that was in the front yard of our old house. Never should have sold that place...:(

 
Last edited:

bigwalton

Picture cravin' AK Postal nut
Staff member
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
#13
Randyzzz said:
but how do the PS lines fit? Looks like the rear line will come out in the flange of the crossmember.:confused:
Sawzall or grinder... the MORE kit mentioned bending a piece of round bar to weld along the cutout for the lines (had it in their pictures), but I didn't have any and was too impatient.
 

John N

Addicted....Ex-SOA VP
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Rockville
State
VA
#14
Randyzzz said:
.... I pretty much figure I'll have to move the box...but how do the PS lines fit? Looks like the rear line will come out in the flange of the crossmember.:confused:
I for got to tell you that part :o , like Eric said, you'll have to notch that crossmember. I didn't know to do that, it wasn't in the Ruff Stuff instructions. I cut it with the box in place...not recomended. I cut into one of my p/s lines and my notching job looked really nasty, but it worked...eventually. Cut it when the box is out or lowered out of the way.
 

Grantshire

Legacy Registered User
City
Richmond
State
VA
#15
I am going high steer on the Commando with the same axles but SOA. Mine is a 69 so it has Ross steering and we are using a steel plate across the frame in front similar to yours and will also move the Saginaw box forward. I don't know how the two systems on different vehicles compare but I know the M.O.R.E./Ruff Country (I think they are the same) mount that moves the box forward about 1" or so is not enough. Many guys switch to shorter pitman arms but that takes away steering. Let me know if the high steer fits easier.
 

John N

Addicted....Ex-SOA VP
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Rockville
State
VA
#16
Grantshire said:
I am going high steer on the Commando with the same axles but SOA. Mine is a 69 so it has Ross steering and we are using a steel plate across the frame in front similar to yours and will also move the Saginaw box forward. I don't know how the two systems on different vehicles compare but I know the M.O.R.E./Ruff Country (I think they are the same) mount that moves the box forward about 1" or so is not enough. Many guys switch to shorter pitman arms but that takes away steering. Let me know if the high steer fits easier.
Richard, when you do the high-steer, the arm is shorter (center-to-center) for the drag link, at the knuckle; so you can use a shorter pitman arm successfully. I can easily hit lock-to-lock on my steering now, I couldn't before by a ways. I even adjusted the stops on the axles to get it so I turn even sharper. Come over and measure, if you want :thumbsup: .
 

Grantshire

Legacy Registered User
City
Richmond
State
VA
#17
John,

I was refering to those who stay SUA with stock style steering, not high steer. Glad to know you can use a shorter pitman arm as we are tight on clearance with the "Scrambler Substitute" (Commando) setup.
 

John N

Addicted....Ex-SOA VP
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Rockville
State
VA
#18
Grantshire said:
John,

I was refering to those who stay SUA with stock style steering, not high steer. Glad to know you can use a shorter pitman arm as we are tight on clearance with the "Scrambler Substitute" (Commando) setup.
What I'm referring to will work soa or sua; it's normally done for soa though. I just had to adapt it, since I couldn't get the typical sua setups to work for me.
 

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#19
Not much to report, but I have made some progress. Guess I'll be the test subject- I purchased a pair of Auburn Ected differentials- one for the front 44, and one for the rear 20. I also got the pass spring perch and shock mounts welded on the front axle. The pass knuckle is out getting machined for high-steer.

I did find that my frame rails at the rear of the front springs seem to be pinched together a bit. The rear hangers are 27" on center, the fronts are 27 1/2". Hmm. To compound problems further, the spring perches on the axle are at 28 1/4" on center. Can't change that- Maybe that's why the housing was free. :shrug: It sure explains why the front shackles were splayed- I see alot of Jeeps that way. No biggie- I'll build new rear hangers, spaced out a bit. I'll also be building a tubular crossmember, with inner flanges- spread the frame back to stock width.

I also pulled the heads off the 350 that used to be installed. Found blown head gaskets. Both rear cylinders were sucking coolant, and 3&5 were sharing compression. Funny, it ran OK!:D I knew as soon as I found some head bolts way under torqued what I would find. I'll rebuild it for my Jeepster, I think.

So...next weekend I should have some Picture-Worthy progress, which I'll be sure to post up!:thumbsup:
 

Randyzzz

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#20
Finally made some more progress...

Seems like forever since I updated this thread... I've been busy waiting for parts, helping my daughter and her husband move out of our place, and last weekend through yesterday I've been sicker than a dog with some nasty bug. I also managed to toast the engine in my Jeepster...:mad:

So...I need to get my tail in gear. I mounted the rear RE springs...sits like it did with the Waggy springs SOA. Perfect! I then addressed the front. The axle I got was narrowed so the perches would be at 28 1/4 on center. So much for not outboarding. I cut off the old rear hangers, and using RoughStuff hangers, built a rear 1/2" outboard setup.



I then built a set of heavy duty front hangers that also tie in the front bumper mount bolt.



This got the springs at the perfect width for the new axle. I'm counting on a bit of sag to help the shackle angle, it's about 1/8" further forward than stock.



Here's how the rear sits...again, I know it will sag some.



I also got a full hardtop ( Thanks, Coarsegold1!) Should make the winters a bit more bearable, and definitely more "Wife friendly" :D




Well, that's all for now. Getting the front end built next week, so next weekend I'll be experimenting with high-steer!
 
Last edited:
Top