Temperature questions

[RandyLL]

My temp gauge reads hot (all the way over but not pegged), but I don't think it is running hot.

Radiator,heater core, cap, and thermostat have all been replaced since I've owned it.
No recovery bottle but it does not blow coolant when I turn it off.
Lower hose cool to the touch after driving (cold night).
Warm air does come out from heater.

Are there any issues with running the aftermarket gauges (Omix. I think) with the stock sending unit?
What temperature should the engine be and where is a good place to check?
Will a radiator cap thermometer read what the thermostat is rated?
Whats the best way to verify that my water pump is working?

I have another new aftermarket gauge that I'm going to try, and recheck the sending unit's ohm value. I would hate to pull the thermostat during the winter.
Any other suggestions?

 

[jack]

You can take the radiator cap off then start the engine. Keep an I on the water in the radiator. When the upper hose gets warm you should see the water moving. That will show you the water pump is pushing water. Shoot a heat gun or cooking thermometer in the water, will give you temp. Should be 190-210.

 

[walkerhoundvm]

Your gauge could be grounding - in which case it might be toast. Does it shoot straight up to hot, or does it climb as you're driving?

I've heard a simple manual adjustment may get the gauge back in range - i.e. using your finger to put it back in the hot zone, but that requires taking your dash and speedo out, which is waaaay too much of a PITA.

 

[RandyLL]

The gauge gradually goes to hot.

Over a year ago I replaced the original gauges with Omix. I can't remember why, but I think it was because of the fuel gauge and they used to say replace both. Well, I never really got the new ones to read properly, and yes it's a PITA to pull the speedo, so I never returned them, and then my jeep sat for a year (long story). Anyway, I went ahead and ordered a new set of Omix gauges. According to the add on Ebay they have been redesigned to work better and can be replaced individually since they both run off of 12V, etc., etc. Well they are different than the first set, but there were no instructions, the posts aren't marked, and they seem to have some adjustment screws on them. I emailed Omix but haven't heard back yet. I would like to test the temp gauge before I pull the speedo, but not sure which post to hook to what and whether to ground it or not.
I took the temp. sender out to check for ohms and used a heat gun to warm it up. Numbers weren't matching what I expected but it was hard to get a good reading. Probably just replace it since it's already out.
Something else weird about the gauges is the fuel gauge has three posts (like the original) which it shouldn't need unless it can be used to feed an original temp gauge. Or was it the other way around. Whatever.

 

[DC CJ8]

Related: Is anyone using an aftermarket temp gauge utilizing the factory sending unit?
Apologies for the brief detour....

 

[RandyLL]

I assume most people do since the gauges don't indicate that they need a different range of sender.

Is anyone using a Robert Shaw thermostat. They're supposed to be designed better. Anyway, I was testing mine (195) on the stove and with the water boiling, the gap only opened 1/8" to 3/16". Cooking thermometer maxed out at 220. Couldn't find any stats online.

 

[RandyLL]

I've replaced the thermostat and the temperature sender, but I have no gauge hooked up to know if anything has changed. Still waiting to hear from Omix. Guess I'll pull the speedo. The first set of new gauges are still in there and they're both loose and moving around. Hopefully the new new ones mount better.

 

[RandyLL]

Omix said the new gauges install like the originals, which I don't have anymore. Apparently you will need the original cardboard insulators and the jumper. I still don't understand why there are 3 posts on the fuel gauge if the temp gauge also uses 12 volts.
I didn't have any luck with the new ones so I reinstalled the first set of new ones. The fuel gauge is working, temp.gauge still reads hot, and they don't mount very securely.

Just about everything has been changed except the water pump. I would think I would have more of an overheating problem if it wasn't working but I need to verify its operation before I mess with the gauges again.