The story of Peggy's jeep.

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Also forgot to add that the e350 FF 60 has big bore spindles from the factory. This allows you to run 35 spline axles without boring the spindles. Moser did a great job on shortening the front. I will get some 35 spline chromoly axles made after getting the axle tube shortened.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
I brought the rear 60 to a local hot rod shop to be shortened on Friday. I brought a piece of 2 1/2” schedule 40 pipe (not tube) to sleeve the joint. This measured at 2.875” OD. They turned it down about an 1/8” to give a snug fit inside the axle tube. Probably overkill as they shorten 9” SF housings for 2000 hp cars with a butt weld. They did joke a bit about me using this 60 for a 165 hp v6.

This should be right at 62” WMS now with the pinion 1” offset to the drivers side.

2736A59D-7E4E-4E20-A39A-9BE2442A31BA.jpegEF73DC59-359F-43CD-B63B-28C3236DABF3.jpeg

I don’t know if I’ll ever need the factory differential mounted speed sensor, but I’ll try to keep it. Never know what the future brings.

2FCC1C02-4CDB-45B2-9541-2D3A00D8C4AF.jpeg

Now I will wait until the sales at the end of the week. Next up is locker, gears and install kit!
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
I brought the rear 60 to a local hot rod shop to be shortened on Friday. I brought a piece of 2 1/2” schedule 40 pipe (not tube) to sleeve the joint. This measured at 2.875” OD. They turned it down about an 1/8” to give a snug fit inside the axle tube. Probably overkill as they shorten 9” SF housings for 2000 hp cars with a butt weld. They did joke a bit about me using this 60 for a 165 hp v6.

This should be right at 62” WMS now with the pinion 1” offset to the drivers side.

View attachment 89211View attachment 89212

I don’t know if I’ll ever need the factory differential mounted speed sensor, but I’ll try to keep it. Never know what the future brings.

View attachment 89213

Now I will wait until the sales at the end of the week. Next up is locker, gears and install kit!
The only think that beats kill is overkill! No one ever said “I built that too strong”! Good job!
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Felt weird taking something to a shop. They did a solid job though. I don’t think I could have gotten it nearly this straight.

258B148F-8B38-47FA-B0F1-5CE710F47394.jpegF0987482-25B4-4484-9645-153B026F2025.jpeg

Next is cleaning the inside with my modified “dingle ball” hone. I spray the inside with a few chemicals like brake clean, simple green then hone for a while. Then I wash it out with soap. Really seems to clean the inside nicely. Blow dry with compressed air then spray with WD40 to hopefully keep rust at bay.

40288AEA-D53C-474D-A918-6C1FB452D9A8.jpeg

There is some pitting on the drivers side wheel seal surface. I cleaned it up, but it still isn’t perfect.

FD62410F-2D86-46B6-B431-85EF833C2C37.jpeg

Should have snagged an after. It’s pretty decent now, but not as good as I would like.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Felt weird taking something to a shop. They did a solid job though. I don’t think I could have gotten it nearly this straight.

View attachment 89225View attachment 89226

Next is cleaning the inside with my modified “dingle ball” hone. I spray the inside with a few chemicals like brake clean, simple green then hone for a while. Then I wash it out with soap. Really seems to clean the inside nicely. Blow dry with compressed air then spray with WD40 to hopefully keep rust at bay.

View attachment 89227

There is some pitting on the drivers side wheel seal surface. I cleaned it up, but it still isn’t perfect.

View attachment 89228

Should have snagged an after. It’s pretty decent now, but not as good as I would like.

The lines/grooves are more concerning. See if you can put a "speedi-sleeve" over the seal surface of the spindle.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
The lines/grooves are more concerning. See if you can put a "speedi-sleeve" over the seal surface of the spindle.

I know you are right. I need to find a descent source for them. I've bought new parts for everything else, I don't want to be changing leaky seals on my new brakes after 50 miles...
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Ox #2 came in!

120D1CF8-6677-4E43-AF1D-18F079FA1CDA.jpeg

Probably for the best that I did the front 44 first. If I had them side by side I probably would have talked myself into a 60 for the front as well.

Not much else new around here. I need to plan for the steering changes. I am planning on running stock, or as close to it as possible, steering components.

That said I cut 4.4” off the axle. I am going to try and run a stock waggy tie rod end. It is 4” shorter. This should be the easiest/quickest way.

waggy - 46.50”
J10 - 50.46”

I will either run a parts mike pitman, or a stock waggy/j10 pitman arm.

The tie rod may be an issue. If it is too long I can cut it down and have a shop thread the end. Hopefully there is enough adjustment. My goal with everything on the Jeep is to have good parts availability.
 

jpnmaine

Active member
Member
City
East Wilton
State
ME
Dont know if you heard of Belzona. Machinable. Or fill the groves and sand. Will stand up to the bearing pressure. Quite remarkable what I have seen it used for.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Dont know if you heard of Belzona. Machinable. Or fill the groves and sand. Will stand up to the bearing pressure. Quite remarkable what I have seen it used for.

I haven’t seen that before. That’s another good option, although I can’t find it for sale in smaller sizes. I will probably have to spend the $50 on a pair of speedy sleeves. The repairs Belzona shows in their videos are crazy though.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Finally getting around to working on the 60. I started fitting the bearings and oil slingers. Immediately saw than I was sent the wrong inner pinion bearing. Called OX, they overnighted the correct one. It was a USA standard kit that was vac packed, must have been a mixup at the factory.

Noticed a few quirks with the ford 60 rear. The carrier was 32 spline. It also had thick shims on both sides outside of the carrier bearing races in addition to the normal shims. Lastly, it didn’t have an oil slinger. I installed one with the new bearings. I’ve read that they can help keep the bearings oiled when the axle is rotated up. Not sure if it’s true, but I went with it.

I have 2 60s to install lockers in. I made some set up bearings. I should have done this with the 44. It’s way faster and easier to make changes. I then grabbed a handful of shims and tested a pattern. Took a few swaps to get .007 backlash, then ended up with this.

EC821A6D-EB75-4CA0-AEE8-CE719B759664.jpeg2F0C194C-684C-473C-906B-707CE969DAD1.jpeg

It is very slightly deep, but close for the first attempt. Tried using my air hammer to the pinion. Much better than the manual hammer method.

Also measured for axle shafts. 32.5” driver and 35” pax.

EA4BE73D-6C06-422C-9947-1173B1D0D903.jpeg52F7E1DE-987A-4447-BA74-F115DF3BC420.jpeg

I’ll call moser and place an order for the axles either tomorrow or next week. Feels good to start making progress again.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Decided to take 2 or 3 thou out of pinion depth. After installing the new race it looked a shade deeper yet. Measured about 24 in lbs of rotational force on the pinion. Aimed for 7-8 thou backlash. Added 15 thou for carrier preload and pressed on the bearings.

A76B43BF-709C-4A2E-8012-47B634B574AA.jpeg

Stretched the case just a little bit, thanks to @93_Fummins for the stretcher. It was a little small, but did aid with the job at hand.

08B994CB-0EC7-4416-9F5E-99B6FC26A708.jpeg

Final pattern installed and ready to go.

BA126387-7838-4A44-B45F-35D96B9A7F08.jpegF8425717-1D31-4AB4-8D87-F977EF1097F3.jpeg


With this completed I’ll move on to wheel bearings and brakes.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Been making some progress on the less exciting things. Started out with a pile of dirty parts. Then cleaned for a while.

90A9AA92-0267-4C5A-808D-C0B7BE99B442.jpegAE495C06-902F-4F01-B684-73A013084FE4.jpeg6F3FFF35-FF11-4BFD-9A5A-6CA7607CBE55.jpeg

Then took a pile of new parts and started assembly.

9BFB763C-1AEA-440B-936B-30967593DB7F.jpeg61686FC5-9D96-4955-B1B5-E6A6C064ECE6.jpegCDDB65C2-066E-486D-97DF-27D27C3FCBBD.jpeg

I haven’t painted the axle yet as I need to weld on the spring perches.

I have also been doing a bit of parts searching and got a set of these.
5806A90A-0445-4CC2-A28F-F661A1FB3449.jpeg3A351949-1B20-4FE2-A3A4-449D1AFC7931.jpeg

Probably larger than I want/need. But they are round and hold air, so I will use them while deciding which direction I want for my “final” wheel/tire package.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Haven’t made as much progress as I would like. I did get some of the required parts.

First were the 35 spline moser axles.
FF4344EF-6B3D-4CA4-9838-90F4E532F7C3.jpegE97139FC-B46B-4565-B366-A4B471F7228E.jpeg

Pretty large. Should hold up to all 160 hp of the mighty 4.3. Unfortunately one of the axles was cut too short. Back to moser it went for a replacement. Not a big deal, it happens.

Next I decided to get some basic 16” steel wheels. I’ll move my existing 33” nitro mud grapplers over to these wheels. Should be fine until I decide what tires I would like to run on the H1 wheels.
FB981327-8379-439F-8B5D-50929CB16926.jpeg

With my 62.5” WMS I should be right at 74” overall width. Added bonus that it will still
Fit on my 77” wide trailer.

Next up is brake master cylinder selection. I am thinking a 1978 corvette master should work. It is 1 1/8” bore with discs front and rear. I was planning on running the stock sized jb6 calipers. I’ve since decided to run the larger jb7 as I need new calipers and pads anyways.
 
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