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The story of Peggy's jeep.


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Realized I’ve been watching this forum for 6 years. It was past time to step up and support the best forum I’ve found.

Went to the Big Meat Run in Langley/Disney OK over the weekend. Very busy, lots of fun. However a stock height 8 on 31” tires lead to some tail and skid plate dragging.



This hill was crazy steep.

Fun place to go, not sure I would go back during the event. Too many people...


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This post is more painful - everyone but the scout is fine.

One of my friends has a 79 Scout II. Nice rig with good patina. He has worked on it for 2 years setting it up to be an ideal trail rig. 33” bfg at, 4” Alcan springs and luckily a roll bar.


About the same time that I added on to my factory roll bar we built a roll cage for the Scout. Luckily we had everything fully welded and reinforced. He also added bucket seats and 3 point seat belts vs the factory bench and lap belts.

A month or so ago he noticed that his brake caliper was sticking on the right front hub. He changed it out, bled the brakes and everything seemed great. He was braking going down a hill - holding pressure. All of the sudden the brakes just gave out. Going down hill and building speed he decided to hit a tree to slow down. Instead he hit a stump and rolled upside down.




Best part is that everyone walked away without a scratch. The Scout rolled over and started up and wheeled the rest of the weekend. My main reason for posting this was a sobering reminder for the importance of safety gear. He wasn’t going crazy, just driving down a trail.

So next up for my 8 - front cage, car seat tie downs in the rear and 3 point belts (81 with lap belts only).


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Picked up the S10/donor rig.


NP241C - cable driven speedometer.


I sent Dennis a pm about his non cv front output 1310 yoke. Looks like the way to go.

I have a JB conversions SYE kit and a clocking ring on the way. Plan is to build a crossmember using the original trans mount. Hopefully I can clock and tuck the transfer case high enough to make a flatter skid plate.

I also thought about asking a poll for internal vs external fuel pump. Decided to just buy the Tanks INC internal fuel pump kit like Raymond used. More work, but I will feel better having the internal pump.


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Parts are showing up and some more progress is being made.

I stripped the S10 wiring harness down and have isolated the ADLD connection. I nearly have the harness as a stand-alone. I’ll leave it like this until I pull the engine and trans, so I can still move it under its own power.

Next is installation of the NP241C slip yoke eliminator.

I was surprised at how much silicone was used to seal the transfer case. Not much in the pump pickup, but there was a chunk in the planetary gears. Really simple assembly/disassembly with this transfer case.


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Just read the entire thread. Your doing great. Remember to take LOTS of pictures of both S-10 connections and Peg’s wiring. Photos save hours of time when reassembling. :wave:


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Thanks! I have a ton of pictures of the S10, will do the same for Peg once I get closer to pulling the engine. Hopefully that will make this process a bit faster.


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Reassembly of the transfercase with the JB Conversions SYE.

I don’t know if instructions are normally included or not, but I didn’t receive any. The only issue I had was where the rear output shaft goes into the 4wd sprocket. The old shaft was about 2”, the new 2 1/4”. I contacted JB and they stated to remove the caged roller bearings that come from the factory.

New on left

Once I remove the roller bearings everything went right into place.


Seems weird to remove the roller bearings. Either way, its mostly assembled now.


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Quick follow up, the instructions for the installation are on the website... The instructions stated that the roller bearings were removed in 1995 and above transfer cases.


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Transfer case is finished.


Now all that is left to do is everything.

I went through the scrambler engine wiring and labeled everything. Already completed that with the S10.

Since I am in the middle of a big project, the only logical thing to do is start rebuilding an 8274.



Scrambler Junkie
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LOL. Glad to see I'm not the only one with ADD here.

So on this engine swap I need to.......ooh, look! A winch!


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I’ve just been sorting wires and ordering parts for the past couple weeks. Had some issues finding wiring diagrams that were correct for the s10 donor. After finding the correct diagrams it was much easier.

I removed the wiring loom from the harness and traced wires. I removed the hood light junction block and soldered the 2 alt to battery wires as the scrambler only has 1 battery feed wire to the fuse block.


Some folks go through the diagrams and remove every wire they might not need. I traced most of the wires and only removed some that were not needed. Some people also remove everything that is emissions related. I am not planning on tuning the tbi ecm, and would like to have this swap be emissions legal.

After staring at the harness long enough it really isn’t as bad as it looks.


Everything on the right side of the trans goes to the computer. The left goes to the instruments, fuse block and power.

The motor and trans haven’t been separated so I am hoping to avoid the drama with the TV cable. From looking, it seems the cable reaches the end of its travel when the tbi is fully open.

I haven’t decided yet on what I would like to do with the TCC or torque converter lockup. Some say to wire through brakes, some a manual switch, some people don’t even hook it up.


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Information in case anyone is interested.

700R4, adapter, Np241c with JB conversions sye = 43”

SR4, adapter, Dana 300 = 33.5”

4.2 to the end of the water pump = 32”

Chevy 4.3 = 24.5”

Interesting that they are within a couple inches of overall length.


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I haven’t decided yet on what I would like to do with the TCC or torque converter lockup. Some say to wire through brakes, some a manual switch, some people don’t even hook it up.
Wire it using the correct TCC brake switch. Using a switch is a safety issue-


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That’s definitely the best option. I’ll order a VSS (likely from Howell), then hook up the correct brake switch. From what I’ve read it’s a mid 80s Monte Carlo.

From what I’ve seen, I would hook up 12v power wire through the switch (ignition power). The switch allows 12v to go to the TCC when the brakes are off. The computer decides when to provide the ground to lock the TCC. When you step on the brakes, you interrupt the power going to the TCC.

No sense in leaving it unhooked, or creating a safety hazard, when the computer will correctly control it.


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I haven’t gotten much done over the summer. My jeep ADD kicked in again and I bought another 8274.

Saw it on a truck that was for sale at a used car dealer. Called them up and bought it. This one was a much smaller project than the first. It was in working shape, so I took the top cover and motor off. Then I cleaned the case, treated a bit of corrosion and put it back together with new oil.

I think it looks just about perfect as is.



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Decided that I needed to fix a few issues/annoyances. My emergency brake switch broke a while back. I had some difficulty finding a replacement, I eventually found one for $25. It looked like a simple part so I thought I would try to fashion my own.

I used a random bolt and nail I had laying around, drilled into the bolt, for the nail. I used red locktite on the electrical connection end and jb weld to hold the nail in the bolt.


Was it worth the effort? Time will tell I suppose. It was pretty satisfying to finish a small project and have it work right away.

Second I needed a knob for the heater switch, made the right decision and ordered a new one.

Now all I need is a working clock, tach, and vent/heater control. After that every installed component of the vehicle will be working properly!