Adventures with Peggy's jeep.

[sdsupilot]

Went to visit some family and did my usual parts search along the route. Found a 1978 J10 Dana 44 a mere 30 miles out of the way.



I have some decisions to make as I build it. Plan is to narrow the long side 4-4.5” will end up at 60-60.5” WMS. I decided to go this route as I don’t really want to outboard the springs.

Now I need to decide if I want a Detroit or some sort of selectable locker in the front. Next is keep 6 on 5.5 or convert to 5 on 5.5. At this point I will probably keep 6 on 5.5 and get an Isuzu rodeo Dana 44 rear with 4.56 gearing and drum brakes.

I did some measuring. This is currently 64.5 WMS and 32” spring perch center to center.

 

[John N]

Converting to 5 on 5.5” will increase the overall width by 1”, leaving you at 61”+/-. Which isn’t bad at all.

 

[CJ8Rockcrawler]

I would definitely go with a selectable locker for the front. I'm running the Eaton E- locker, but you can't go wrong with an ARB either.

 

[sdsupilot]

Converting to 5 on 5.5” will increase the overall width by 1”, leaving you at 61”+/-. Which isn’t bad at all.

Thanks for the info. I think the rear axle will make the bolt pattern decision. I've been planning on an isuzu rodeo/honda pilot rear, that would match my current j truck. A scout rear 44 or early bronco 9" would also be good.

I would definitely go with a selectable locker for the front. I'm running the Eaton E- locker, but you can't go wrong with an ARB either.

I've been doing some research on all the options. I have a lunchbox in the front. I really don't notice it all that much. That said, the price of a selectable locker vs full detroit makes the decision easier towards the selectable. Right now I am leaning towards the OX.

 

[sdsupilot]

Removed the shock mounts and spring perch. Ground into the tube about 1/16”.


I went back and filled the cuts with my mig welder and ground it smooth.

Called Moser Axles to ask about re-splining and shortening. $70 for a single, $120 for a pair.

 

[spankrjs]

Thanks for the info. I think the rear axle will make the bolt pattern decision. I've been planning on an isuzu rodeo/honda pilot rear, that would match my current j truck. A scout rear 44 or early bronco 9" would also be good.



I've been doing some research on all the options. I have a lunchbox in the front. I really don't notice it all that much. That said, the price of a selectable locker vs full detroit makes the decision easier towards the selectable. Right now I am leaning towards the OX.

I love my OX Lockers

10 years, over 40,000 miles, no problems

They do not seem to be too popular? Not sure why, they work great

 

[sdsupilot]

I love my OX Lockers

10 years, over 40,000 miles, no problems

They do not seem to be too popular? Not sure why, they work great

Glad to hear that! I've done a ton of research. I don't like the Yukon Zips composite locking mechanism - so its out. The Eaton E locker is easier to install than an ARB, but they somewhat unlock when changing direction. I have a friend with one and he hasn't had any issues.

The ARB has been the gold standard for quite some time. I don't necessarily want to run air lines. I've had friends that have had issues with the solenoids and air lines, but most of that can likely be placed on the install itself.

The OX is made in the USA. I really like the simplicity of the locking collar/mechanism. I will probably use the cable vs electric/air.

 

[spankrjs]

Glad to hear that! I've done a ton of research. I don't like the Yukon Zips composite locking mechanism - so its out. The Eaton E locker is easier to install than an ARB, but they somewhat unlock when changing direction. I have a friend with one and he hasn't had any issues.

The ARB has been the gold standard for quite some time. I don't necessarily want to run air lines. I've had friends that have had issues with the solenoids and air lines, but most of that can likely be placed on the install itself.

The OX is made in the USA. I really like the simplicity of the locking collar/mechanism. I will probably use the cable vs electric/air.

Yep, Made in the USA, no air lines/o-rings to leak and fail.

My front cable is beat to hell (sits in front of the axle tube, has hit a few rocks), with the wire showing through the torn outer sleeve, still functions perfectly.

The only problem I ever had, and not the OX locker's fault: spun the AMC 20 center section, pinion went up, pulled the cable out of the shifter in the cab. Fixed rear axle, reinstalled/adjusted the cable, been working fine since.

Beside the above mentioned issue, I have never had to do any maintenance/adjustment to the cables. My two OX Lockers have performed flawlessly One of the best modifications I did to the Scrambler

Another plus - the diff covers have drain plugs

 

[CJ8Rockcrawler]

Thanks for the info. I think the rear axle will make the bolt pattern decision. I've been planning on an isuzu rodeo/honda pilot rear, that would match my current j truck. A scout rear 44 or early bronco 9" would also be good.



I've been doing some research on all the options. I have a lunchbox in the front. I really don't notice it all that much. That said, the price of a selectable locker vs full detroit makes the decision easier towards the selectable. Right now I am leaning towards the OX.

My recommendation from that list would be the Rodeo/Passport Dana 44 rear and I'm running a Scout 44 rear. The Scout 44 has become somewhat expensive to work on as there are some unique parts. I'm needing to redo the brakes including new drums and it'll be cheaper to convert to disc rear. I'm tempted to try to find a Rodeo 44 instead! It might be cheaper to redrill the axle shafts.

 

[sdsupilot]

My recommendation from that list would be the Rodeo/Passport Dana 44 rear and I'm running a Scout 44 rear. The Scout 44 has become somewhat expensive to work on as there are some unique parts. I'm needing to redo the brakes including new drums and it'll be cheaper to convert to disc rear. I'm tempted to try to find a Rodeo 44 instead! It might be cheaper to redrill the axle shafts.

Thanks for the info. I've thrown the others around. It seems like the rodeo/passport 44 will be the most economical - even considering that I would need new wheels.

 

[sdsupilot]

John N was nice enough to spend a half hour over the phone explaining the shortening process. I really appreciate him talking me through this. Scrambler people are the best people. I took a ton of measurements with my wood working wixey digital angle gauge. After obsessing enough i moved on to remounting the original spring perch.

Measured 27.5” center to center (actually edge to edge as it’s more accurate) with my fancy diy measuring apparatus.


Then I verified with the angle finder that the cast in perch and weld on were close to perfect and tacked in place.

I have firmly established that I am a death wheel guy vs reciprocating saw. The axle tubes on this 44 are pretty thick.




This is where I am tonight. Looks like I will be removing about 4.25”.

 

[sdsupilot]

I was motivated today to do some work. Decided to start cutting. First thing is to measure 500 times with my custom caliper.


Since the axle tube was inset 5/32, I marked that line to cut. I rolled sand paper around the tube. When both sides are flush you will have a nearly perfect and square line drawn.



Looks like I cut a little under 4.5” off. Then I cleaned, wire wheeled and polished the tube. I used a cylinder hone to clean the knuckle. It still took lots of encouragement to get the knuckle back on. I used my 8 lb sledge, mainly so I didn’t need to beat it on with a dead blow. Soft, slow taps more than actually hitting. Just like that, a bolt in CJ Dana 44 front.



The disaster of tools was to aid in adjusting the knuckle to match what it was before. Check measurements and make adjustments early on. If my measurements are all correct, it should be 60 3/4” WMS-WMS.

 

[John N]

If you decide to go 5 on 5.5” vs. 6 lug, give me a call and we can cover that conversion. If you keep it 6 lug, you’ve already got that covered. Good job, so far.

 

[sdsupilot]

If you decide to go 5 on 5.5” vs. 6 lug, give me a call and we can cover that conversion. If you keep it 6 lug, you’ve already got that covered. Good job, so far.

Thanks John, I will let you know. I need to send the long side axle to Moser to get shortened. After that, most everything will wait until I find a rear end. That will decide the gear ratio and lug pattern.

After that the next debate is 4.56 or 4.88 gears with 35" tires. The 4.3 is a bit on the weak side for highway use, at least in overdrive. My DD is a Duramax, so my drive ability and passing power expectations are unrealistic for a jeep.

I am leaning towards 4.56 right now. That would give me 2000 rpm at 65 in OD and 2850 rpm in D. 4.88 would probably help the 4.3 on OD, but there is always the chance that a TBI 350 will find its place between the frame rails.

 

[barrys]

The 4.3 is a bit on the weak side for highway use, at least in overdrive. My DD is a Duramax, so my drive ability and passing power expectations are unrealistic for a jeep.

That right there is funny and probably realistic for many of us.

 

[sdsupilot]

Axle is at Moser and should be back next week. I smashed my thumb with a mini sledge removing the lug nuts from the spindle. We will call it a chain of poor decision making. Slowed my progress as I was unable to wear gloves.

Removed the ball joints. Not sure how I got by before I got these fancy electric tools.


Thumb is better so I welded the spring perch and knuckle back on. I wasn’t happy with a single pass, so I did a triple. Not my prettiest work, but I’ve never made multi pass welds look pretty.

I verified all measurements and was pretty much exactly how it was when I started. My gauge reads to the tenth of a degree and read the exact measurement.

Hopefully now I can start putting it back together. Tubes had junk in them, so I made an attachment with a dingle ball hone. Tubes look factory fresh. A little purple power and elbow grease and I now I have a clean dry housing.

 

[Randyzzz]

After that the next debate is 4.56 or 4.88 gears with 35" tires. The 4.3 is a bit on the weak side for highway use, at least in overdrive. My DD is a Duramax, so my drive ability and passing power expectations are unrealistic for a jeep.

Well, some Jeeps have plenty of power!?

 

[don87401]

The CJ5 I had was 4.3/700r4 and 4.88 on 35s. I did not like the 4.88 on the highway it still wouldn't stay in OD that well so when it kicked out it was really wound up. For the CJ 6 I am using 4.56's with the 4.3/700r4, 35's combo this time. I guess time will tell. My LJ 4.0/auto has 4.88 My Scrambler 258FI/NP435 has 4.56, both on 35's I don't do a lot of high travel though. Both run decent at 60-65.

 

[93_Fummins]

https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Parts-Chevy-Turbocharger-Wastegate/dp/B07JB1V71M

 

[sdsupilot]

Well, some Jeeps have plenty of power!

Haha! Yes, I am a bit jealous of those with the LS swaps.

The CJ5 I had was 4.3/700r4 and 4.88 on 35s. I did not like the 4.88 on the highway it still wouldn't stay in OD that well so when it kicked out it was really wound up. For the CJ 6 I am using 4.56's with the 4.3/700r4, 35's combo this time. I guess time will tell. My LJ 4.0/auto has 4.88 My Scrambler 258FI/NP435 has 4.56, both on 35's I don't do a lot of high travel though. Both run decent at 60-65.

That is great information and also my fear with the 4.88s. The RPMs would be a bit high for 3rd at 65.


Jeremy that turbo kit would be hilarious. They claim 15 hp per lb of boost. 10 lbs of boost would get me to LS levels for a dyne pull or two... Or, until my 30 yr old 4.3 gives up.