The story of Peggy's jeep.

sdsupilot

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Eagle Nest was pretty cool. We toured along fire road 76. Rough road but 4wd not required.
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The last pictures are from Goose Lake near Red River NM. Beautiful scenic area. The trail was a little over 7 miles. It climbs from about 9000 ft to 12000 at the lake.

The trail wasn’t very difficult, but there were plenty of drop offs near the edge of the trail. Our stay here was shorter than at Moab. There are still tons of trails and things to see. If we were to go to this area again I would prefer to stay closer to Red River.
 

sdsupilot

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Moab is a bucket list location for Jeep people, for good reason. There is access and options for people wanting about any trail experience.

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My friend with the TJ was at work when we arrived. His power steering went out on the first day. I’ll condense the experience. It took a combination of 3 new/reman pumps and reservoirs and at least 5 installs to get a non leaking pump.

The first trail was Hells Revenge. I would definitely run this trail again. Super cool to see something in person that I’ve read about for 20+ years.

These three pics are from the very beginning of the trail. I would have definitely paid to drive up lions back. Much taller and steeper in person.

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sdsupilot

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Third day was Fins n things. Lots more UTV and motorcycle traffic. The end of the trail with all the fins was pretty fun. The rest of it wasn’t as interesting. Still better than sitting at work. This was also the first full trail my buddy in the TJ was able to run after the power steering issues.

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sdsupilot

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Next was Shafer Trail. Drove this with my youngest. Wife took the day to go hiking with friends. Shafer Trail was the most scenic of all. If you go with little kids, plan on not being able to have them leave your sight/side for 4-5 hours. From the Shafer Trail Viewpoint to the potash ponds there are significant drop offs/cliffs.
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sdsupilot

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Now I am back home planning the next trip and some upgrades. Working on ordering the Ox locker for the 44 front with 4.88 gears. Still deciding on a rear. I was planning on an 8.8, but in order to do it “right“ the cost is more than I would want. I am now planning a SF 60 35 spline with for 9” ends with Explorer brakes. Should be bones to support what the future brings to wheeling.

Also started the next project.
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My friend with the Scout added on board air before Moab using his factory York AC pump. Made airing back up much quicker. I have 2 in my stash, so I started tearing them apart. Surprisingly the one that was locked up looks the best internally. The oil turned to goop on the bearings causing them to stick. I disassembled and cleaned the bearings, used brake clean to dissolve the sludge. Ordered a new gasket kit and should be ready to put back together.
 

sdsupilot

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I have a path for the rear decided. Picked this up today.

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This is a FF dana 60 from a 99 e350. Still deciding if I want 5 on 5.5 or 8 on 6.5.

I thought I would be a bit burned out from jeeping after Moab. Apparently not... also did some additional work to the York. I cleaned the head and valve things. I then planed the cylinder head with some sand paper on my flat table saw.
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My trusty wheel cylinder gone gets a surprising amount of use. I used it earlier this year to hone a model airplane engines sleeve. Same basic principle here. Clean up the bores and watch RPM to give a cross hatch pattern somewhat like the factory.
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Tomorrow I will tap the York’s cylinder head for 1/2” npt fittings.
 

sdsupilot

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Forgot to mention, I ran into a familiar face on the road near Tucumcari NM.

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Jake was on his way west to Trail Hero, our group had stopped for the night heading back east to Oklahoma. He stopped by with his family and chatted with my friends and I before we headed to dinner and he got on the road to Albuquerque.

I had been following along with his trip/wheel bearing issues. Pretty awesome how helpful fellow Jeep people are.
 

sdsupilot

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I think the compressor is finished until I get the mount and clutch. It was originally a V belt, so I will get a serpentine clutch for it.

Above I stated to tap to 1/2” NPT, that’s wrong... use 3/8” NPT. 1/2” will remove too much material.

First step is to drill the head. I didn’t drill all the way through. I feel that could compromise how it seals to the valve plate.

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I then moved onto installing the cylinder head. Figured my grandpas old torque wrench needed some use.

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Probably wouldn’t hurt to get it recalibrated. I promptly stripped the threads from one bolt on the compressor. Then moved on to installing the front seal. I installed the T washer in the wrong order. It then leaked, so I put the compressor away for a few days. I found a slightly longer bolt that torqued properly. Then reinstalled the front seal. I think it’s good to go now.
 

sdsupilot

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I’ve been slacking at updates and pictures. Since the last post I’ve received some goodies.

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I assembled the Ox with 4.88 gears. Pinion depth was the only tricky part. Ox has been great to deal with. After disassembling and reassembling repeatedly it gets easier. I ended up with this pattern, sent to Ox. Chip and Allen said it was good to go.

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I had 0 end play with a slip fit on the carrier. For final assembly I added 8 thou to the ring gear side and 10 thou to the other. It has 7 thou of backlash. For the pinion I had 5 in/lbs of preload. I took 3 thou out and had 19 in/lbs. This is right at the top of the specs for new bearings.

Since I am converting to 8 lug, I needed the correct caliper supports. Found these at Farritor Auto parts in Broken Bow Nebraska. That was the same place I found the J10 axle.
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Then I went and dropped the cash on some new hubs/rotors. As you can see, the top hat portion of the 3/4 ton rotor adds a bit of width.
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I measured and it appears to be 62 3/4” WMS. This leaves me 7” per side for wheel and tire stick out to still fit on my current trailer that is 77” wide.
 
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sdsupilot

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I brought the 60 back in the garage. I need to get moving on this as I will order the OX, gears and bearings next week on the upcoming sale.

Took out the tape measure and started planning. The front is about 62 3/4” WMS. The rear is 66 3/8, plus about 5/8” for the brake rotors. That puts the rear at 67” WMS.

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Then I measured from the brake flange to pinion center. Pax side 26 3/4”, driver 30 3/4”. Currently offset 4” to pax.

My plan is to shorten the drivers side tube 4.5-5”. This will offset the pinion 1” to match the current setup. It will also bring my WMS to 62-62.5” on the rear.

For shortening I am either going to have a shop do it or find material to sleeve the inside and DIY. Not sure what my best option is.

Also, a 60 makes a 44 look small.

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sdsupilot

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Will you shave the bottom of the 60 or leave it alone. Like the OX set up.
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I believe this is a 60U or something like that. The E350 60s come smooth from the factory. Honestly feel pretty lucky at this point. It’s smooth bottom, factory disc with drum ebrake and I only need to cut one side to get correct width and pinion offset.
 
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