- City
- Minneapolis
- State
- MN
Shhh... the Jeep gods will hear you. It's not allowed to have everything working properly.
Nicely done!
Nicely done!
Adventures with Peggy's jeep.
- Thread starter sdsupilot
- Start date
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
Haven’t done much with the scrambler other than drive it for the past few months.
Went to crossbar ranch in Davis OK last month.
Decided to add a bit of traction to the front.
No photos of the install. Installing the locker was easy, but I had a few related things that took forever to resolve.
Dissasembly was pretty easy. I did see that my brake pads were worn, so I ordered a new set. Rotors were well within spec. Everything with grease was nasty and needed cleaning and repacked.
The passenger side axle shaft ujoint took 4 hours to change. I broke a vice before resorting to a press. Was ultimately successful, just wasn’t as fun of a project as I hoped it would be.
Went to crossbar ranch in Davis OK last month.
Decided to add a bit of traction to the front.
No photos of the install. Installing the locker was easy, but I had a few related things that took forever to resolve.
Dissasembly was pretty easy. I did see that my brake pads were worn, so I ordered a new set. Rotors were well within spec. Everything with grease was nasty and needed cleaning and repacked.
The passenger side axle shaft ujoint took 4 hours to change. I broke a vice before resorting to a press. Was ultimately successful, just wasn’t as fun of a project as I hoped it would be.
- City
- Ducor
- State
- Ca
That's the most accurate statement EVER!!!
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
Haha! I had to think for a minute... It was in the drawer next to me when I was removing the dif cover. I tapped on it with a hammer to loosen the gasket.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Guessing this was on disassembly? There's a very cool brute force BFH method I've used since I saw it (on here) that gets every joint I've ever dealt with out in seconds/minutes. I've used it after people couldn't use the socket/vise method and the caps popped right out. My thought is that the difference between an impact load to break it loose from the shaft and attempting to press out an old cap is huge.
Big_Mark originally posted it and the photos in his thread are now gone, so I just recreated it linking a video. I've referred to it enough over the years that it's worth redoing for a new "generation". Thanks for the "nudge" to do this:
https://www.cj-8.com/threads/u-joint-removal-hammer-and-vise-method-no-sockets-involved.49165/
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
That's a great video and the same technique we used on the farm. I've never had it fail me, until this front axle shaft. The caps were pretty rusted in. I started with a normal sized ball peen hammer, then a 3 lb mini sledge. When that didn't work I put the joint in the vice, put and put it under load. Still nothing so I decided the best plan of action was to whack the vice with the mini sledge to give a shock load. This promptly broke the back half of my vice off.
Then I went and used a friends press (what I should have done from the start). It took quite a bit of effort to push the old out. Enough that the ears of the yokes were bowed slightly in. The C clips wouldn't be able to lock the new joint in place as they were. I improvised and used 2 3/8" bolts with washers and nuts pointed tip to tip with a bushing to keep them aligned. When you tightened them together it would spread the ears back apart. After that, the new joints went back in and the clips went tightly in place.
Just wayyyyy more work and effort than I have ever spent changing U-joints - including the glued in GMs.
Then I went and used a friends press (what I should have done from the start). It took quite a bit of effort to push the old out. Enough that the ears of the yokes were bowed slightly in. The C clips wouldn't be able to lock the new joint in place as they were. I improvised and used 2 3/8" bolts with washers and nuts pointed tip to tip with a bushing to keep them aligned. When you tightened them together it would spread the ears back apart. After that, the new joints went back in and the clips went tightly in place.
Just wayyyyy more work and effort than I have ever spent changing U-joints - including the glued in GMs.
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
As for the Spartan Locker.
In 2wd with hubs unlocked you obviously don't notice it since nothing is turning.
In 2wd with hubs locked you may hear some clicking in turns. I couldn't hear it, so I jacked one tire up at a time and spun it both directions. Light clicking.
In 4wd with hubs locked you will notice a difference. Especially on pavement, or anytime with good traction. If you coast through a turn it will ratchet. However, most turns under power will cause scrubbing and binding since the locker will be engaged.
In 2wd with hubs unlocked you obviously don't notice it since nothing is turning.
In 2wd with hubs locked you may hear some clicking in turns. I couldn't hear it, so I jacked one tire up at a time and spun it both directions. Light clicking.
In 4wd with hubs locked you will notice a difference. Especially on pavement, or anytime with good traction. If you coast through a turn it will ratchet. However, most turns under power will cause scrubbing and binding since the locker will be engaged.
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
Final thought for the day. I wasn't planning on lifting Peg too much, but I fell into a BDS 4" lift.
I am now wondering if I should keep and twin stick the Dana 300 already in it or use the NP241C with SYE installed that is sitting in my garage.
The twin stick might be nice to take the front out of 4wd when in low range to make turns.
Happy Jeeping!
I am now wondering if I should keep and twin stick the Dana 300 already in it or use the NP241C with SYE installed that is sitting in my garage.
The twin stick might be nice to take the front out of 4wd when in low range to make turns.
Happy Jeeping!
93_Fummins
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Edmond
- State
- OK
What would be the benefit of the 241C over the D300? I'm personally a fan of gear cases over chain. I'd keep the D300 and twin stick it, if it were my decision.
- City
- Thayer
- State
- KS
NP241 shifts the front output shaft outward to make more room for drive shaft clearance.
If you decide not to use the Np241c with SYE let me know I know someone looking.
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
I’m getting the stage set for the transformation over this winter. I have the bds 4” spring stripped and repainted. When I reassemble I will put new spring pads, center pins, u bolts and bushings.
I bought a new welder to help with the coming fabrication. Hobart handler 210 MVP.
Built a 8274 front bumper for a buddies scrambler. Also found a fab shop to cut out custom d ring and tow hook mounts.
I bought a new welder to help with the coming fabrication. Hobart handler 210 MVP.
Built a 8274 front bumper for a buddies scrambler. Also found a fab shop to cut out custom d ring and tow hook mounts.
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
Finished the 8274 rebuild/refurb, then bolted on the custom bumper. I wasn’t big on the bar/hoop originally, but it did grow on me. This was delivered to a friend in Colorado to go on the front of his 8.
The weather is getting colder, so the jeeping season is about to end. I might get started on the engine swap this weekend.
Since I have both a dana 300 and an np241c I will probably mock both up to see which I like better. With the spartan up front, I may prefer a twin sticked dana 300 for the ability to disengage the front drive when turning in low range. I don’t feel either option is a “bad” choice, we will see what I decide.
Happy Jeeping!
The weather is getting colder, so the jeeping season is about to end. I might get started on the engine swap this weekend.
Since I have both a dana 300 and an np241c I will probably mock both up to see which I like better. With the spartan up front, I may prefer a twin sticked dana 300 for the ability to disengage the front drive when turning in low range. I don’t feel either option is a “bad” choice, we will see what I decide.
Happy Jeeping!
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
Looked like the last good weather weekend for a while, so I got a jump on the swap.
Removed the fenders, grille and radiator all together.
Checked my sending unit since it quit working recently.
Looks like the sending unit is still good.
The float filled with fuel and stopped floating.
The fuel tank looked pretty good, but the skid plate had some bad rust. Ordered a new one.
At this point it is stripped down. I pulled the engine, trans and transfer case as one unit. Then I removed the I6 engine mounts. I also removed all the original fuel lines and dropped the gas tank.
So I have a complete drop in I6, sr4 and Dana 300 with shifters and all engine accessories ready to sell.
Now all that’s left to do is reassembly...
Removed the fenders, grille and radiator all together.
Checked my sending unit since it quit working recently.
Looks like the sending unit is still good.
The float filled with fuel and stopped floating.
The fuel tank looked pretty good, but the skid plate had some bad rust. Ordered a new one.
At this point it is stripped down. I pulled the engine, trans and transfer case as one unit. Then I removed the I6 engine mounts. I also removed all the original fuel lines and dropped the gas tank.
So I have a complete drop in I6, sr4 and Dana 300 with shifters and all engine accessories ready to sell.
Now all that’s left to do is reassembly...
Attachments
FLCJ8
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Palm Bay
- State
- FL
Not sure if you already know this, nor am I 100% sure this will work in your case.
I saved this from years ago.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-sending-unit-float-1964-1968/p/FSUF/
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
Dang, I already ordered a plastic replacement along with the skid plate. 4wd had free shipping and pretty descent prices on both. Hopefully it all gets here soon. Hoping to have the engine/trans in on Wednesday.
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
Decided to be productive. I had a couple friends come over and we installed the engine/trans/transfer case.
The 4.3 fits very well. I offset the engine 1.5” to the drivers side as recommended. I tried to clock the transfer case up 20 degrees from standard on the 241c, but that clearly wasn’t going to work. It’s now clocked 10 degrees up from stock. I need to fabricate a crossmember for the trans/transfer case. I think I will do a single crossmember then I will add the skid plates later and separate from the crossmember.
I also got the fuel tank mostly ready to go.
Pretty easy install once you get over the fear of blowing up.
The 4.3 fits very well. I offset the engine 1.5” to the drivers side as recommended. I tried to clock the transfer case up 20 degrees from standard on the 241c, but that clearly wasn’t going to work. It’s now clocked 10 degrees up from stock. I need to fabricate a crossmember for the trans/transfer case. I think I will do a single crossmember then I will add the skid plates later and separate from the crossmember.
I also got the fuel tank mostly ready to go.
Pretty easy install once you get over the fear of blowing up.