Torqueflite 999 rebuild

[ag4ever]

Torque Command, Torqueflite, A999, A904, call it what you want, this is my rebuild of a transmission originally installed in an ‘84 (or ‘83, not sure) CJ with the 258 engine. The transmission number, located on the case above the pan on the driver’s side, is 8933000913 8083 0190.

8933000913 = ‘83 - ‘85, AMC, 258 I-6, type 999, CJ-7/8 & SJ, 2.73 first, 4WD, Lockup Converter.

8083 = Wednesday, September 14, 1983.

0190 = serial production number that day.

I will be using 2 books to help with my rebuild process. First is Chrysler TorqueFlite A-904 & A-727 Transmissions How to Rebuild. CarTech / SADesign SA394. By Tom Hand. ISBN 978-1-61325-335-9



Second is ATSG Chrysler Passenger Cars Techtran Manual. Automatic Transmission Service Group. UPC 8-52553-00625-7

 

[ag4ever]

First step was getting a clean location for tear down. We have a mud room on the back of our house with conditioned air and tile floors. I setup a folding table with two metal drip pans from the local auto parts store to contain fluids. Then drop the dirty trans on the table for some soil removal. The oil like substance on the outside is fluid film. Since I bought this transmission without a tail housing adapter and it was stored in my barn, I sprayed it down liberally to protect it from flash rusting (shaft / governor) and general corrosion. I did not experience any trans fluid leaking.



After cleaning most of the loose dirt off the case and vacuuming up the debris, it was time to start disassembling the outside components. First the dipstick/ tube. Second the shift levers using a 7/16” wrench. There are 2 shift levers, one is the shift lever, the other is the line pressure lever (often called the kick down lever, but that is not really accurate). Then removal of the reverse / neutral switch using a 1” wrench.



I then drained he fluid, actually sucked it out using a vacuum pump and catch bottle before rotating it on the bellhousing for pan removal. The fluid removed looked good, not burnt and still had a nice red color.

 

[ag4ever]

After standing it up on end, I removed the 14 bolts, with a 1/2“ wrench, holding the pan on.



I might be wasting my time rebuilding this transmission, the fluid looked great, filter looks good (as far as I can tell) there were some assembly grease blobs in the pan (this makes me believe it is low miles after a rebuild), and the internals of the case look really clean so far. But, since this is an unknown transmission and the previous owner did not indicate if it was good or bad, I am assuming the worst and rebuilding. I am assuming it was previously rebuilt as the pan gasket had silicone on the fiber gasket. Not sure why you would use both silicone and a fiber gasket. Either way, I think too much silicone was used, as I found a couple “flanges” hanging on the fiber gasket on the inside.

 

[spankrjs]

Did the dipstick tube have an o-ring on it to seal it to the case or was it glued in place?

 

[wm69]

Please post lots of pics! I have two TF999's in the shed and while they are supposedly "good" I'm taking the same approach you are; rebuild so I know.

I know nothing about automatics, so any part numbers for rebuild kits/ valve bodies etc would be much appreciated!

 

[ag4ever]

Did the dipstick tube have an o-ring on it to seal it to the case or was it glued in place?

This is a great question!

It appears that this tube had a “dry” o-ring.



From researching at forabodiesonly.com (look up VOETOM, that is Tom Hand from the first book above), there is no real consensus whether it should be a greased o-ring or a rtv supported o-ring. There is a strong camp on both sides of the fence. I tend to align with the no rtv camp. The important consideration is that the tube is round and does not have any cracks. Not even rtv will fix that problem, imho.

Now, there is an interesting alternative. In the mid 90’s Chrysler changed from the o-ring seal to the GM style grommet.



This grommet CANNOT be used with the o-ring style tube. The good thing is, as long as the mounting tang is in the correct location, a dipstick tube from a Dodge Dakota should interchange with the Jeep tube. I have not verified this, I might look into it when I am nearing the completion of the build. As long as the bends are close to the same, a new mounting tang could be welded or brazed onto the Dodge tube to match the Jeep tube. Also, if you want the dipstick closer to the radiator, you might be able to use a Van tube. If you do that, be sure to use the corresponding dipstick. Allegedly, almost all Dodge dipsticks are the same length, except Hemi cars (possibly some other odd ducks too). Look for one of the following transmissions made mid 90’s or newer: 30RH, 31RH, 32RH, 40RH, 42RH, 40RE, 42RE, 44RE, A500, or A500SE Heck, you might find a Grand Cherokee with the 4.0 that has a 42RE with the dipstick tube needed. Look for 1993 - 2003 models. I would think that might be an exact swap.

​

 

[ag4ever]

Next step, pulling the filter. 3 Philips headed machine screws.



From the looks of the filter (right photo is the top of the filter) it does need a rebuild, but we shall see.

Then, on to the valve body. Remove the 10 bolts with a 7/16” wrench.

Three on the top left, three on the bottom left, for around the accumulator piston on the right.



Now, remove the accumulator piston and corresponding spring, in this transmission the spring was on top of the piston (bottom when viewed as mounted in the Jeep). See middle picture above.

 

[ag4ever]

Now I am stuck. I thought I had a slide hammer. Mine is a body work hammer designed to grab pins welded to sheet metal. I ran down to the local Chinese tool importer, bought a new one. Got home, tried to use it, well it is only for blind hole bushing / bearing removal. So, now I plan to get some 3/8 - 16 all thread and build my own slide hammer. The holes marked are the threaded holes for pulling with the slide hammer.



On a side note, I might lose my conditioned work space. Got a complaint about the aroma leaking into the house from my better half. Hopefully I can get it stripped and washed before any major issues arise.

TTFN

 

[John N]

Now I am stuck. I thought I had a slide hammer. Mine is a body work hammer designed to grab pins welded to sheet metal. I ran down to the local Chinese tool importer, bought a new one. Got home, tried to use it, well it is only for blind hole bushing / bearing removal. So, now I plan to get some 3/8 - 16 all thread and build my own slide hammer. The holes marked are the threaded holes for pulling with the slide hammer.

View attachment 105576

On a side note, I might lose my conditioned work space. Got a complaint about the aroma leaking into the house from my better half. Hopefully I can get it stripped and washed before any major issues arise.

TTFN

For God’s sake, don’t put it in the dishwasher unless she’s going to be gone for “at least” a few hours.

 

[Truck]

Please post lots of pics! I have two TF999's in the shed and while they are supposedly "good" I'm taking the same approach you are; rebuild so I know.

I know nothing about automatics, so any part numbers for rebuild kits/ valve bodies etc would be much appreciated!

I would also appreciate this.....

 

[ag4ever]

To remove the pump, snug down the front band adjustment screw. First back off the lock nut. The goal here is to retain the front clutch assembly when the pump is freed from the case.

Adjustment screw


Band tightened on drum


Thread the slide hammer into one of the two threaded bosses, then whack. Switch to the other boss, then whack. Keep switching back and forth until the pump pops out. Firm whacks at first, then when it starts moving, decreasing intensity until it falls out. I used an 18” long piece of all thread 3/8 -16 with two nuts a fender washer and the weight from another slide hammer. Any weight that transfers the energy of the blow to the pump would work. No need to buy a expensive job specific tool.

Front of pump


Rear of pump


Front of case with pump removed

 

[ag4ever]

Addendum to above discussion on dipstick tube sealing. After removing some internals and flipping the case so the bottom is facing up, I noticed a machined groove in the dipstick hole. Given the fact there is a recess in the tube and one in the case, a properly sized o-ring that is still pliable is all that should be needed for a good seal. No RTV needed, imho.


*EDIT* Addendum to correct the addendum (I feel like an Architect), after cleaning the case there is no recess in the hole for the dipstick tube. It is a smooth bore with a 45 degree chamfer at the top. I still feel no RTV should be needed for a good seal.

 

[ag4ever]

Unthread the front band adjustment screw, remove it from the case. Pull the lever apply strut out.



Squeeze the band together enough to clear the case, but not grab the front clutch drum. Remove from the case.



Remove the input shaft / front clutch / rear clutch assembly. The book say it might catch, but mine freely slid out.

 

[ag4ever]

With the front assembly removed, note the type / location / orientation of the thrust washers on the output shaft.



First the “cup” washer, cup facing forward.


Second washer is flat, stained side facing forward.


Next, remove the external snap ring holding the planetary gears to the output shaft.

 

[ag4ever]

Please post lots of pics! I have two TF999's in the shed and while they are supposedly "good" I'm taking the same approach you are; rebuild so I know.

I know nothing about automatics, so any part numbers for rebuild kits/ valve bodies etc would be much appreciated!

I would also appreciate this.....

Hopefully I am documenting with enough photos. I am attaching in the post as thumbnails to prevent the length and load times from becoming excessive. Let me know if I should use the full size attachment instead of thumbnails. (You can still see the full size by clicking on the thumbnail.)

I am trying to take a picture of EVERYTHING so I remember how to put it back together. My CRS is getting worse as I get older.

 

[ag4ever]

Remove the front planetary gear set.



View of rear side

 

[ag4ever]

Remove the sun gear shell. Note the location and orientation of the thrust washers.



View of the rear side

 

[ag4ever]

Remove another set of planetary gears. Rear planetary.

Front


Rear


Front planetary to rear planetary stacked out of the case.


Next up the the rear annulus gear.



Note type and orientation of another thrust washer


Annulus gear added to the sub-assembly stack

 

[ag4ever]

Now remove the rear low reverse drum


Rear side of drum


Drum added to the sub-assembly


Band removed from the case, note there is no strut on the low reverse band in the A-904 type transmissions (904, 998, 999, etc…)

 

[ag4ever]

Remove the output shaft with governor attached