What texture type "paint" have you used inside your CJ8 tub?

Kim Dawson

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
Molalla
State
Or
#1
So many different brands or types of texture coating. I'd like to use a coating that I can spray body color. Getting the tub ready for paint and I'd like to use something I can do myself. If you guys could tell what you used, how well it adheared, if you needed special spray equipment, ballpark cost, and how you liked it. Randy is using lizard skin . . . haven't heard of that one. Help me make a choice.
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
#3
I had to do some touch ups on my raptor liner. It was way easier than I imagined, and came out much better than I expected.

As with most things, practice and have about 50% extra, it takes some trial and error to get the color match and texture right, but otherwise it's pretty darn idiot-proof.

I used their sprayer and a smaller air tank. I also used their etch primer. It adhered incredibly well - remember to prep it well.

For touching up a 3'x3' area it was about $50+ touch up paint and I had about half a liter left over. For the whole interior I'd get the 4 liter kit plus a couple extra liters.
 
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Randyzzz

Blown Budget
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#4
I also will be using Raptor on the inside of the bed. I will be leaving it black. From my research, Raptor is one of the best liners for bed applications, and the 2 step Lizard Skin is the best for interior applications.
 

Kim Dawson

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
Molalla
State
Or
#7
Checking things out, seam sealer says not to use over etching primer, and Raptor says not to use directly over seam sealer. Not all these products like each other. I saw a CJ7 about a month ago that was all texture (like Shortbals CJ8) . . . probably Raptor. It is getting to be a popular look.
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#8
Checking things out, seam sealer says not to use over etching primer, and Raptor says not to use directly over seam sealer. Not all these products like each other. I saw a CJ7 about a month ago that was all texture (like Shortbals CJ8) . . . probably Raptor. It is getting to be a popular look.
My plan is mechanically scuff the surface, wipe with acetone, seal seams with 2 part seam sealer, epoxy prime with the Raptor sourced product, then spray with Raptor.

The 2 part seam sealer dries hard as a rock, almost like epoxy. That’s probably what it is. I do know it takes paint just fine.
 

Kim Dawson

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
Molalla
State
Or
#9
My plan is mechanically scuff the surface, wipe with acetone, seal seams with 2 part seam sealer, epoxy prime with the Raptor sourced product, then spray with Raptor.

The 2 part seam sealer dries hard as a rock, almost like epoxy. That’s probably what it is. I do know it takes paint just fine.
Will the 4L kit do all of the inside of your tub?
 

Mancunian

Lifetime Member
LIFETIME
City
Bridgeport
State
WV
#11
Raptor - just ask your paint supplier to provide a can of tint - i see it basically as a 'thick' paint - it's polyurethane - so use the proper precautions.
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#15
I used a professional undercoating product that I got from the Ford dealer where I work(ed). It is an asphalt base that cleans up with water when wet, and dries semi hard and doesn’t rub off unless you really try. I used it on the copper Scrambler and after many snowy winters there was no rust or failure of the coating underneath. The product is ResistAll. Here’s a screenshot of the stuff. I used 6 cans of it on Red- it was free...
19A13557-472C-424D-8BEF-957CEA09F3CE.png

I have heard of people using both Raptor and Lizard Skin as undercoating. I don’t like that idea at all. The liner products make a solid one-piece surface. But a rock chip, a sharp edge by a bolt that didn’t get fully covered, etc, and you have the proverbial “Achilles heel” where water and corrosives can enter and work their evil between the base metal and the coating. Sort of like powder coating- it’s great until it gets scratched, then rust forms between the powdercoat and the metal. The asphalt based products don’t form that kind of layer, and they are asphalt so the oils that they are made of help to prevent corrosion. They aren’t as cool or good looking as a liner product, but I feel they are better for the vehicle.
 
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