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What's on your Work Bench?

certifiablejeep

Definitley Certifiable
Lifetime Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
I'm not sure I have anything cool jeep related, but if you are open to something else, let me know. Good friend of mine has a 76 Levi Edition in much better shape and I think this would look great in his garage. His father-in-law bought it new, now he and is wife are loving it and jeep'n it on a regular basis.
Sounds like that is where it should head, will PM you.

cb
 

mhinchliffe

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
W-S
State
NC
Had to replace the front tires on my 2008 F450 in preparation for my fall season. It's been DPF deleted, EGR deleted and I run a 25 hp tune on my H&S tuner - not a hot rod guy at all when it comes to this thing because it gets me and my tools to the job. Oh, it loves the off road slippery fuel too! These are 225/75-19.5's and the recommended T.P. is 110 psi. I had a look at the brake pads as I've never changed them in 160,820.9 miles. I did however do the rears about 20k miles ago and discovered that on these rigs the pads and calipers are the same front and rear! I primarily use it to pull a 32' enclosed gooseneck aluminum trailer loaded with my tools and equipment for my industrial contracting business so it sees mostly road tractor duty. I was surprised when I had to change the rears and the fronts were in great shape. I attribute it to a properly set up and functioning trailer braking system and my driving habits - no need to be hitting the brakes on the interstates or uphill, but I digress. Here are a few pics for the crowd, not terrible at all but still getting work done even in 100* weather.
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don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Farmington
State
NM
I went to using centrimatic balance rings on my F450 my front tires have wearing better and lasting longer. Been happy with them. Just a thought.
 

certifiablejeep

Definitley Certifiable
Lifetime Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
My "personal shopper" sent me 5 wheels and 7 grab bars today. More to come. I spent most of the day sand blasting and clearing the centers, dressing up the SS spokes, removing leather covers and putty like padding, and scrubbing the wheels. Sometimes I'll get a wheel that is slightly bent, and sometimes really bent. One wheel I got was on the column and it looked like it had been used as a pogo stick. That prompted me to drill a hole in my workbench and bolt the wheel down and straighten it. Now I check wheels and by putting some big washers under the wheel, so it sits flat on them, and cinching the wheel down, and then measure the height of the wheel at the spokes and the top. Our CJ wheels should be (depending on the thickness of the washers) about 4 1/4" bench to top of wheel. If not, a long crow bar over the high side and under the low side and a good push and you can even up the height. The green one took one push. The black one I got off of ebay (said not bent) took a few more. Once they are ready for padding and leather covering they go upstairs to my upholstery work bench. When done, they go to the unexpected guest bed in my shop. Unless the spokes are visibly kinked, you can straighten a wheel without hitting it with a hammer or damaging it.

Got my setup from @Kim Dawson yesterday... came out great and looks very very nice with my button.

cb

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spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
"Fixing'" the Harbor Freight "Yard Only no highway or long distance road trip" trailer's bent axle.

I paid around $220.00 for this thing new 6-7 years ago. I wanted a cheap trailer I would not feel guilty about beating the crap out of in the woods. It has served its purpose beyond my expectations.

Anyway, about impossible to get parts for this thing, so I have to repair it "RedneckRay" style.

I hooked a tire on a tree root and kept pulling, in 4 low, 4:1 reduction, something had to give, it was the axle/spindle:

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Even though this is Chinese steel, it was still pretty tough. Had to put 9500 pounds of Warn pulling power, doubled with a snatch block, to straighten this out!!!!

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I actually pulled the first tree down, had to hook up to a bigger tree!!!!

I had it within an 1/8", got greedy, bent it too far forward!!! Had to pull the axle back backwards with the Scrambler, strap on the spindle.

Got it within 3/16", good enough for me!!!!

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Like I said, I paid $220 for the trailer, around $100 in plywood and 2x4's to build this jewel 6-7 years ago. Today, to replace it, $499 for the trailer kit and we know how much lumber costs!!!!!!

So, as long as it will roll, it will remain in service. Once it breaks, and I can't get spares for it, I will have to scrap it.

Currently, it needs:

2 new tires (cracks and dry rot but they still hold air)
2 new wheels (both are severely bent)
New bearings and hub seals (they still roll)
New axle (see above LOL)
Tail lights (my fault)
New 3/4" floor plywood (rotted, will patch for now)

As much as I bad mouth China/Harbor Freight, this thing has lasted way longer than I thought it would, considering the abuse it goes through. And I feel no guilt about beating on it. A better/more expensive trailer would not have worked as well for me in this roll.
 
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Kim Dawson

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
Molalla
State
Or
How much do you sell a basic black steering wheel?
I don't have a basic black steering wheel right now. I sell lots of the leather covered styles and I bet someone on here has a Basic black plastic wheel they would sell.
 

certifiablejeep

Definitley Certifiable
Lifetime Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
How much do you sell a basic black steering wheel?
I think you need to be more specific about what you are looking for... @Kim Dawson takes steering wheels and refurbishes/wraps them and makes some amazing things.

It sounds like you want just a base model steering wheel, but there are other designs/styles depending on the year as well... so if you had a picture or something, you could post it in the "wanted" section.

cb
 

STSFCTN

Member
Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
I think you need to be more specific about what you are looking for... @Kim Dawson takes steering wheels and refurbishes/wraps them and makes some amazing things.

It sounds like you want just a base model steering wheel, but there are other designs/styles depending on the year as well... so if you had a picture or something, you could post it in the "wanted" section.

cb
Correct, I should have asked how much a basic black leather wrapped wheel would cost.
 

Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
Correct, I should have asked how much a basic black leather wrapped wheel would cost.
So are you asking about a 40 year old used leather wheel or a refurbished Kim Dawson beautiful wheel ? This is a used one I was able to find on line from a wrecking yard a couple of years ago. It is not leather. I think I paid around $100 plus shipping. I wasn't looking for a good condition one because I was going to go another way with it getting it refurbished. This is the wheel before and after. You can see it is far from perfect
 

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Kim Dawson

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
Molalla
State
Or
Correct, I should have asked how much a basic black leather wrapped wheel would cost.
Scramblers and CJs in the 80s mostly used the Laredo or Renegade wheel. CJs in the 70s used the Sport wheel. The YJ wheel is like the Laredo wheel but with the dish being about 3/4" shallower. $325 and $20 shipping to CO. Use your horn parts to complete. I can do black, slate blue, nutmeg, honey (spice), garnet, and the Levi Sand Tan for the 77 to 79 Levi Edition CJs and Wagoneers.
 

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WildTurkeycj8

Legacy Registered User
Member
SOA Member
City
richmond
State
va
So pretty stoked about going to the Va 4wd event this weekend. First time in a long time for me. I went there regularly years ago.

Anyway, I need to start protecting the underbelly of the cj, so as a start, I made this transfer case skid plate. I had planned on protecting the transmission and oil pan too, but I want to do that with a separate skid to make it easier to remove/handle them, as needed (principally due to weight), and I ran out of time to do that before this event (as usual!).

So I started with tcase skid. I did a lot of research. Then I think I overbuilt it, but that's probably good.

Here is what I started with. The square tube towards the rear of the jeep is the mount for my anti-wrap bar shackle:

20210914_122034.jpg


I cut a piece of 3" x 6" rectangular 1/4" tube into two 3" x 6" L-shaped pieces, then welded a 1/4" plate across the bottom of those. Then I reinforced it with some 5"8" square steel I had laying around. I clearanced for driveshafts and trans and made it so the 5/8" steel would rest flush against the crossmembers. I fully welded and smoothed the bottom, and added a couple of drain holes for water.

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So then I lifted it up into place. Fits like a glove around the crossmembers. I attached it with bolts on the vertical sides to protect them from abuse.

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The only thing I'm worried about is whether I left enough clearance for the tcase to deflect under load without hitting the skid plate. You can see the fit here:
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20210914_132909.jpg

If I find the tcase contacts the skid, I can take it off and remove a little of the 5/8" steel. Otherwise, I like that it is super sturdy, not too heavy to handle, allows for air to circulate around the exhaust pipes to dissipate heat, and I can still check and add fluid to my trans and tcase while it is mounted in place.

I already have my plan for building the trans/oil pan skid...will do that this winter for sure.
 
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