What's on your Work Bench?
- Thread starter certifiablejeep
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- W-S
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- NC
OK, so the boat trailer is just about done. The wiring was done by soldering all connections with what's called a "Western Union" splice, the tee's were done with the same method. Liquid electrical tape was applied after soldering then finally marine shrink wrap with adhesive/sealant over each joint. If you zoom in you can see that I ran 16 ga. - 4 conductor down each side. This was done so as to not use the trailer as a ground but use the tow vehicle as you should. The marker lights were spliced into the tails and ground circuits as well. I added my own "pole lights" with 11 LED strips. These are connected in the same manner.
Never would have imagined that there was an axle shortage going on but there is. Had these shipped up here from the coast along with new bunk mounting brackets.
I picked up a 48" piece of 3" x 1/4" aluminum to sandwich between the new aluminum braces and the existing aluminum crossmember. The old carbon steel ones pitted the aluminum due to them being dissimilar metals. What I did was clean the oxidation with a wire wheel and apply grease between the new 1/4" plate and the brackets. I bridged the 6" area with12" of plate. Pictures will explain a bit better.
You can zoom in on this one and see it finished
Done deal.......now to go get the boat! That's Ruby hanging out in the shrubs....
And here's what prompted all of this
JUNK - I think I kept myself off of the "Epic Fails" thread with this project.
Never would have imagined that there was an axle shortage going on but there is. Had these shipped up here from the coast along with new bunk mounting brackets.
I picked up a 48" piece of 3" x 1/4" aluminum to sandwich between the new aluminum braces and the existing aluminum crossmember. The old carbon steel ones pitted the aluminum due to them being dissimilar metals. What I did was clean the oxidation with a wire wheel and apply grease between the new 1/4" plate and the brackets. I bridged the 6" area with12" of plate. Pictures will explain a bit better.
You can zoom in on this one and see it finished
Done deal.......now to go get the boat! That's Ruby hanging out in the shrubs....
And here's what prompted all of this
JUNK - I think I kept myself off of the "Epic Fails" thread with this project.
- City
- Molalla
- State
- Or
- City
- Molalla
- State
- Or
- City
- Molalla
- State
- Or
The only Jeep I have ever seen them on (with my own eyes in person) was when I did the RHD
I think the front carriage bolts is a good idea, as it would be smoother, but if you have the light tabs as well as pictured ^^, you would have 2 style bolts now on the bumper... I guess it depends on what look is trying to be achieved.
This is definitely a one off case here as the bumper and then brush-guard, tow hooks, etc. are all jammed in there.
If you had just a plain stock black bumper, you would have the mounting bolts for it more visible and those are hex as well.
So, I said a lot here, but I don't have and overwhelming opinion either way... losing a bolt at the top and bottom to clean it up is fine, carriage or hex... not sure.
cb
I think the front carriage bolts is a good idea, as it would be smoother, but if you have the light tabs as well as pictured ^^, you would have 2 style bolts now on the bumper... I guess it depends on what look is trying to be achieved.
This is definitely a one off case here as the bumper and then brush-guard, tow hooks, etc. are all jammed in there.
If you had just a plain stock black bumper, you would have the mounting bolts for it more visible and those are hex as well.
So, I said a lot here, but I don't have and overwhelming opinion either way... losing a bolt at the top and bottom to clean it up is fine, carriage or hex... not sure.
cb
Just a point of clarification. Craig’s green Jeep is a RHD CJ-7 from England, not an Overlander. The Overlanders had a custom aluminum front bumper.
None of that detracts from the very sharp looking front bumper on the England CJ-7s. I think they look great and would love to reproduce that look on my ‘82.
For the smaller SE extensions, I would imagine the market is very small. They were used on the rear bumpers of the Overlanders, and I have seen estimates of only 200 of those made. Of those 200, only a very small fraction would be in the market for metal reproductions (in the single digits I’d bet). The only others would for the limited edition Jeep owners, and that too is a very small group. Of those, if you want an original restoration, metal would not work.
With that all said, I would love a set of metal extensions. Really, I would want a set of scrambler rear bumper caps, small front extensions, and large front extensions. Call it the complete set.
Very excellent work.
None of that detracts from the very sharp looking front bumper on the England CJ-7s. I think they look great and would love to reproduce that look on my ‘82.
For the smaller SE extensions, I would imagine the market is very small. They were used on the rear bumpers of the Overlanders, and I have seen estimates of only 200 of those made. Of those 200, only a very small fraction would be in the market for metal reproductions (in the single digits I’d bet). The only others would for the limited edition Jeep owners, and that too is a very small group. Of those, if you want an original restoration, metal would not work.
With that all said, I would love a set of metal extensions. Really, I would want a set of scrambler rear bumper caps, small front extensions, and large front extensions. Call it the complete set.
Very excellent work.
Note sure if that question was for my hood and grille. They weren't blasted. There was no rust on either. Sanded the paint down with a DA, a few dents bumped out of the hood, skimmed to smooth it out and shot with epoxy primer. The black spots are a dusting of black primer for the wet sanding right before we seal and paint in a couple months. It helps when one of your best friends did body repair for 20 years.
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- Molalla
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- Or
I finished up a pair of these today for a J10. The original heat sealed design would have been so much easier to do than sewing around all those half-round beads. That's over 50 times going 360 degrees through the sewing machine to do the pair. I gotta stop doing these . . . they take up way too much time.