Will Linex or Rhino Liner stick to POR15?

[Grantshire]

My Scrambler paint job is almost finished and I am trying to get it ready to have the interior Linexed. There are some suggestions of rust around some of the inside seams and I was thinking I might put POR 15 or some type of rust converter on them before they are covered by the Linex. Hwoever, I don't want to do anything that will cause the Linex not to stick. Does anyone have any expereince with doing this?

Richard

 

[CBRogers]

Definately not just straight POR15. That stuff is really slick. It should work if you use the TieCaot primer that they reaccomend. That should be enough texture to bite to.

I have seen a body that had been in a fire and even areas that were not affected by fire had delaminated. I wonder how much heat it takes to do this. Anyway looks like the best surface for the LineEx or other surface treatment would be a sandblasted rough finish. But you would have to be really quick or the surface will flash rust and then you will have a problem too.

Try the POR and then TiCoat. Should be your best bet. Or maybe that stuff that Easton sells. Supposedly you can paint right over it.

Carl

 

[Super 8]

Just rough up the POR-15 and you will be fine. I PORed the inside and underside of my scramber then Linex. I called the POR people and they said if your just take the gloss off, it will stick fine. Mine has been on for over 3 years now with no problems!

 

[Stouttrout]

Mine had alot of Por15 in the bed. It came out fine. The installer should rough up everythng with sandpaper before he coats it.

 

[Grantshire]

Thanks Stouttrout & Great 8, that's what seemed logical but I wanted to get confirmation before I did it (Linex aint cheap around here!). I will POR 15 all my seams before taking it to be Linexed.

How about a pliable filler for around the rear inside fender/tire wells? I pulled most of mine out to get at the seam rust. What did you (should I) fill back with? This stuff reminds me of caulk but just a little harder. If I use body filler it will crack. Needs to be something with a little flexability. There use to be some stuff used on roof drip rails (back when cars had drip rails). Any suggestions?

 

[Grantshire]

Hey Stouttrout,

What did you use (or did you) to plug the holes in the body you did not want the Linex to fill? Things like seat bolt holes, seatbelt holes, rear seat, bulkhead, etc. Also, did you take the Linex over the side? I have been considering taping the body panels so that the Linex covers the lip around the tub and door openings. The black accent will look good with the Jamacian Beige and it will give the edge more protection that just the paint. Any down sides to doing this?

 

[Stouttrout]

To seal the seams get Seam sealer. I used a 3m product that you can find at most auto body supply places. As fot going over the lip. I did not. In our heat down here it begins to peel up. I have seen it happen on alot of vehicles. Also I have a full soft top and i did not want it to get in the way of that or wear it out. This is why I did not do the roll bar too. i have it on my ATV racks and it wears out straps I use on them. i know it will wear out a soft top or bikini top. they can pug all the holes. all they do is tape over them and it fill it in. Makes it easy and works go too.

 

[Robert Slone]

Hey Stouttrout,

What did you use (or did you) to plug the holes in the body you did not want the Linex to fill? Things like seat bolt holes, seatbelt holes, rear seat, bulkhead, etc. Also, did you take the Linex over the side? I have been considering taping the body panels so that the Linex covers the lip around the tub and door openings. The black accent will look good with the Jamacian Beige and it will give the edge more protection that just the paint. Any down sides to doing this?

I used a Rustoleum bed liner product on mine (got a deal - $25 for the kit - it was returned to a Lowes store that did not stock it and they wanted it gone to avoid restocking headaches). I stripped the bed to bare metal, coated it with Permatex rust treatment and sprayed it with rattlecan primer. I put small screws in some of the holes - smaller diameter than the hole so the screws just dropped in but with a head big enough to cover the hole (if the screw head isn't big enough use a washer with it). When I was through I just pulled the srews out - don't wait too long!. Any spots around the holes that the liner missed had the Prt and primer covering the metal so none of it was bare. I may have used tape on some of the bigger holes and trimmed it with a razor blade so it only covered the hole (don't remember , but I know I thought about it ). The drain holes were not a problem since the liner couldn't fill holes that big. I trimmed them a little with a knife so my plugs would fit.
I taped off the sides, firewall and rollbar and only covered the floor and tailgate. I don't care for the look of sides coated with liner, but if you plan on a lot of hard wheeling you may want to cover them. My body is blue and the bumpers, mirrors, top and doors are black (a black and blue Scrambler - seems appropriate ). The black liner against the blue sides does make a nice contrast and gives it a professional appearance.

 

[Grantshire]

Thanks Robert. I plan to also put screws/bolts in all the holes. I have also found some lack plastic panel plugs that work. I plugged the wood side rail holes with large ones and it looks great. I will take the liner up the sides and maybe over the lip. I plan on a full soft top but figure the linex will help keep the rust at bay.

 

[Stouttrout]

Before you do over the lip think about wether or not you are using a fast trac system or a botton system. that stif is alot mor durable that canvas. we just stripped a roll bar for that reason.