Robdesigns Scrambler Rebuild

[Robdesigns]

Long story made short because some of this is a rehash of this thread:
https://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19864&referrerid=3683...skip to the end.

Bought first Scrambler in 1996ish - sold in 2007 as a bolted together collection of parts.

Bought second Scrambler in 2007 from Ebay - the pictures looked awesome, reality was a little different.....

Fixed this long enough to enjoy the Scrambler for a year or two.

I soon realized that the rust was too pervasive to ignore and parked it after one last ice cream run with my daughter.

Fast forward to Feb, 2010 I bought a replacement frame locally and got to work stripping drive train.

After stripping and bagging everything off the frame, I pressure washed it inside and out.

 

[Robdesigns]

After pressure washing I made a list of what needed to be fixed on this frame.

1) I wanted to find out what was behind this "C" channel.

2) Replace this "custom" cross member.

3) Fix this perforation along the inside drivers side frame rail

4) Fix this hole behind the parking brake bracket.

5) I also had one or two broken bolts that needed to be replaced

6) Add the Chief Wahoo frame plates and cross member.

7) Coat frame inside with Eastwood Rust Converter, and then inside and out with Eastwood Chassis paint.

 

[Robdesigns]

I got the frame in the basement....yes the basement. It's a walkout basement with 6' wide double doors. The completed Scrambler won't fit, but the rolling chassis and the assembled tub will fit separately. If all goes according to schedule, I will be ready in late Winter/ Early spring to assemble the tub to the rolling chassis under my deck.

I cut off that "C" channel and found what I expected, more perforated frame rail.

I cut the perforated part out.

Made a cardboard template using the good passenger side as a model.

I had a piece of 1/8 HRS formed and I cut it to fit.

I have welded new weld nuts to the inside of the frame rail to mount the skid plate/transfer case mount. I bolted the skid plate up and welded the nuts where they cinched down on the inside. My rather butch looking notches where because I did not account for the weld snot that built up.

 

[Robdesigns]

Frame finishing question:

When I prep the replacement steel parts, is it important to get it all the mill scale off, or just scuff it up?

My plan was spray some cold galvanization paint/weldable primer on the parts of the replacement plate that are hidden. Then after I finish welding the frame, hit it with a pressure washer again to get what ever remaining rust shook loose. Next tape off all the holes in the frame rail and simply pour the bottle of rust converter down the tubes and work it around by rocking the frame around.

Then hit it inside and out with chassis paint.

Does this sound right to you all?

Rob

 

[4miles]

Rust Converter Inside Frame

I used a rust converter inside the frame also with good results. I had tested some on some rusty metal that is exposed to the weather and is still holding up fine. The product I used was a milky white that turned purple and cured black. It left a nice acrylic coat that could be painted over. It was easy to saturate the frame inside with a $10 engine cleaner sprayer for an air compressor. Just stuck the siphon tube in the jug of converter and the 90 degree head was small enough to fit in the holes in the frame to spray down it both directions with a nice coating mist.

 

[Robdesigns]

Progress is a little slow. I welded in my latest patch and the parking brake bracket.