I've also done it; kinda/sorta twice. The first time I stayed SUA. I took the bare housing to a machinist, and asked him to mill the stock Scout spring perches to give me . . . 3? maybe 5? degrees of pinion angle. (I'd have to go back through and check my notes.) Then I had him cut the yokes and turn them for 8 degrees of castor. This gave me the stock wide-track CJ pinion and castor (maybe I went with two more degrees of castor).
I outboarded my springs.
For steering, I had him mill two additional tapered holes into the top of the knuckle arm, measured from the ball-joint out to mirror the same distance as the stock CJ Dana 30 drag-link. I moved the stock Scout drag-link into these two holes.
This freed-up the closer of the two stock Scout holes. I used a stock CJ tie-rod, with a special MOOG tie-rod end with the Scout taper, and put it into the newly-freed stock Scout hole.
This set-up essentially gave me all factory CJ-7 geometry.
For round 2, check out my build thread. I didn't really change anything, except for welding new spring perches on top for SOA. The steering did have to get monkeyed with, and ultimately I just need to spend the $1000 it'll take to do proper high-steer with custom drag-link and tie-rod.
In addition to the link to Kane's thread, keep in mind that Scout axles also have zero degrees of pinion angle. Steel shims can adequately address this, but take that measurement into account when you go to set your castor. Otherwise you'll be going ahead 8, and then back 5. (Or something like that.) If you want all my research on the factory CJ angles, let me know and I'll find my notes when I'm at home.
