Hood Louver

[Manhattan]

The guy who solved my timing (overheating) issue said "If it runs cool around town, but hot on the highway, it's not the radiator, the clutch, the hoses, the coolant, the thermostat... it's timing"

 

[mysunnshine]

I'll have to disagree on that one. With my old efi 350, I had complete control with the fueling and ignition timing and with my old electric fan and aluminum radiator it still overheated.

 

[Manhattan]

I'll have to disagree on that one. With my old efi 350, I had complete control with the fueling and ignition timing and with my old electric fan and aluminum radiator it still overheated.

In town / on the trail too?

 

[tower210]

Build it out of u bends. BTW, your sender should not be in the upper hose. It should be in the head or intake for it to read correctly.

I like the idea of bent tubing, may have to work on that.

The sender is fan control only. I don't have water going thru the intake manifold (the PO plugged it off); and my serp brackets prevent the use of the 4.0 Tstat housing. Don't know where else in the block to connect?

 

[jammer1]

I got from Summit Racing a flexable metal pipe (stainless) that used rubber ends like mysunnshine's picture. You can cut it to size, the bend is gradual, I don't know if that helps. If you need a picture I can take one but it probably easier to check the web site.

 

[mysunnshine]

In town / on the trail too?

Mine would stair step. You drive it and the temp would increase, stop at a light it would she'd all but 5deg. Drive it more, the temp would go up, etc.... The last national on Colorado it got to 205 degrees before I turned around on the trail. I threw fuel at it to cool it too (in the programming). The fix for my overheating issues was the frickin' electric fan. It sounded like it moved a lot of air but it really didn't. After putting a triple pass radiator and a high flow water pump, the fan was the only thing left. Now I can drive it in 120 degree temps and be under 205 degrees engine temps.

 

[mysunnshine]

Build it out of u bends. BTW, your sender should not be in the upper hose. It should be in the head or intake for it to read correctly.

I like the idea of bent tubing, may have to work on that.

The sender is fan control only. I don't have water going thru the intake manifold (the PO plugged it off); and my serp brackets prevent the use of the 4.0 Tstat housing. Don't know where else in the block to connect?

Just remember that you do not want your cooling system to float a ground in any way. I'm sure you have ground on your adapter but that is a fast way for electrolysis to kill your entire cooling system. Note to self....

 

[tower210]

I got from Summit Racing a flexable metal pipe (stainless) that used rubber ends like mysunnshine's picture. You can cut it to size, the bend is gradual, I don't know if that helps. If you need a picture I can take one but it probably easier to check the web site.

A picture or link would be great!

 

[jammer1]

The link is http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-390124/overview/ . I copy paste so I don't know if you can click on it (never tried). This isn't the one I got, can't remember the brand but it's the same style. The pic is. If it goes through it's not the best, but it gives you a idea. This should work for you. Dmock, check you're timing with a adjustable timing light. If the springs in the distributer stretched or one is broken the centrifugal force of the weights is what advances the timing (mechanical advance). If the springs are stretched or one is broke the faster it spins the more the weight moves (and the more advance you have). If you check it at say 3200 rpm and it's suppose to be around 32 deg's, but you have 36 deg, you are over advanced and that can be you're problem. Check with the vac line pulled from the distributer and plugged. You only want to check the initial advance + centrifugal. I don't know what you're engine is suppose to be for the total. Hopefully some one more here would know.