Needing direction...

[cattleman1977]

Thanks for the advice in the oil.
I've decided to shelve or sell the T5 ( if that's actually what it is) for now and stick with the T176. I'm reading spankrjs's build thread for a second time now and I recall all of the problems he had with the T5...

Got a little bit more done today:

Still fighting 9 of the torx bolts in the roll bar. Not sure what I'll do there. I've got to be out of town for a few days this week; maybe pb blaster will soak in while I'm gone...

Removed hood.





Removed fenders also.



There's damage to both.







I'm trying to decide how far to go with the body. Tub has some holes in the bottom but I think they can be repaired without having to paint the outside. There is also se rust by the drivers side A pillar.









I really like the patina I have in places and am not sure I want to repaint the entire thing.





I could go with tube fenders but I like stock better. I also don't want to deal with this in five years.

I also noticed there is an inch of dirt buildup in the frame. So, at a minimum clean frame and underside of tub and then treat with something like POR15 as I've Sean mentioned on here. Jury is still out on paint...

 

[cattleman1977]

Also, I'd never noticed my jeep has cruise control.



The cab controls had evidently been remove before I bought it. Where would they have been located?

 

[wm69]

Also, I'd never noticed my jeep has cruise control.

View attachment 48357

The cab controls had evidently been remove before I bought it. Where would they have been located?

Should have been on the turn signal stem. Wonder if someone swapped out the steering column or ??

 

[cattleman1977]

Hmmm, this is my steering column.



Anyone know what this is?



Mounted to underside of body behind transfer case. Wires have been cut in cab.

 

[mysunnshine]

Speed sensor probably for the cruise control.

 

[cattleman1977]

Ahhhhh. That would make sense.


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[cattleman1977]

At what point do you give up on the torque bolts in the rollbar? I'm almost to the point of grinding off the heads and drilling out the bolts.

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

At what point do you give up on the torque bolts in the rollbar? I'm almost to the point of grinding off the heads and drilling out the bolts.

Weld a nut to them, the heat and extra grip with the nut usually gets them out for me!

 

[cattleman1977]

Weld a nut to them, the heat and extra grip with the nut usually gets them out for me!

Thanks CHIEFWAHO! This did the trick. For anyone who may try this a 3/8 nut is not big enough but a 1/2" was just right. It seemed to work better to plug weld them also. For the next to impossible to reach bolts on the rear supports I welded a long bolt to the welded nut. Only had two of sixteen bolts snap.

Sheet metal is in worse shape than I was expecting given the lack of rust elsewhere.

 

[Polarfire]

That 8's typical for under the rollbar. AMC installed the rollbar before primer and paint. Bare metal under there is usually pretty rusty.

 

[cattleman1977]

Managed to get a little bit more done the last couple days while its been too wet to get any farming (or anything else very productive) done. An hour here and there just chipping away at it.



Clutch linkage is all but completely shot:







Under dash components + someone's lost pack of smokes that were in the heater:



Body mounts all came out easily and frame mounts appear to be in reasonably good shape with the exception of some of the mounts on the tub side.

Any suggestions on where to buy replacement sheet metal for the bed corners under the roll bar?

 

[cattleman1977]

Managed to get a little bit more done the last couple days while its been too wet to get any farming (or anything else very productive) done. An hour here and there just chipping away at it.

View attachment 48501

Clutch linkage is all but completely shot:

View attachment 48502

View attachment 48503

View attachment 48504

Under dash components + someone's lost pack of smokes that were in the heater:

View attachment 48505

Body mounts all came out easily and frame mounts appear to be in reasonably good shape with the exception of some of the mounts on the tub side.

Any suggestions on where to buy replacement sheet metal for the bed corners under the roll bar?

 

[walkerhoundvm]

Managed to get a little bit more done the last couple days while its been too wet to get any farming (or anything else very productive) done.

Ask and ye shall receive, eh? You know it'll be dry as a bone from June until the end of September, though

 

[cattleman1977]

This is what I'm considering for repairing the bed corners. They're manufactured by a company called classic enterprises. Of course, I could just use sheet metal but I'd have to give up having the ribs.

http://www.classicent.com/jeep/jeep-scrambler-cj8-1981-1986


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[cattleman1977]

Oh, and I'm definitely not complaining about the rain; the drought of the last five years has cured me of that.

My biggest problem is that it is really hard to force myself to do any desk work when this jeep project is right there to distract me! It's a lot more fun than bookwork...

My second biggest problem is whether or not I'll be able to reassemble this thing when I'm done!


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[Doc Savage]

For the bed panels those replacements look good. I used the Key Parts replacement for my driver's floor pan and liked it, but didn't see that part by Key Parts. I've heard lots of good about Classic Enterprises also. I had rust in the same area, and just welded a steel plate under the floor after taking the brackets off. Watch out for the brackets under that spot. Mine were full of sand and mud. Took alot to get it all out, almost had to chisle it out. We used POR-15 on them over a rust convertor before painting them. I just hope we got all the crud off them after scraping and sand blasting, they still didn't look clean to me.

 

[cattleman1977]

Haven't had a chance to work on the 8 for quite awhile but we finished up with wheat harvest Wednesday night so I spent a little time yesterday cleaning it up.

How it's looked for the past month:

Spent a couple hours removing old bedliner/paint with pressure washer. Here's some before and after pics:

I found a couple rust pin holes in the bed floor but overall it was in pretty good shape. I then separated the tub from the frame and washed the underside of the tub.

Judging by what came out of the frame I'd say my scrambler used to live in Oklahoma:

Frame seems to be in decent shape. There is some rust at the very back of the right frame rail that I will need to patch. It probably needs washed out another time or two. And I'm going to have to replace the rear cross member and the cross member by the gas tank. I'm surprised at how good of shape the other body mount outriggers are in.

Have I read on here that Chiefwaho builds/sells the cross members?

I expect I'll end up replacing fuel and brake lines while I have it torn down this far.


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[JeepScrambler]

Be careful lifting the tub from the very front and rear like that. The tubs easily bend in the door section, even slightly, and can cause major fitment issues down the road.

 

[cattleman1977]

Whoops. What's done is done but dully noted. Won't do that again.


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[jammer1]

On my build I removed the braces under the front roll bar and put the tub on a home made rotisserie to do the work on the bottom and floor of tub. When I went to put the tub braces on I had to use ratchet straps to get everything to align. After doing bodywork (skim coat of body filler to smooth the tub) and painting I let her sit over the summer in the shop. In late fall I found a fine crack in the paint where the pillar support (inside the tub side). It took two attempts (taking down to metal both times) before I found the spot welds of the pillar had pulled away from the tub (skin). Fixed the seam so it wouldn't flex and that solved the problem. Then I was able to mount the tub to the frame. All that was caused by the braces being removed and put on the rotisserie. They like to bend just behind the doors.